If still in good shape probably a very nice pair of subs for the money. I looked into them just a bit and recall knowing about them but do not believe I ever used any of them. Big motors and cast frames, might be aluminum cone from pics I saw and comments I read seem to say it is a very good SQ sub. Some were comparing to JL which I never liked their "signature sound" as it was not accurate, stating much better SQ, JL louder. I would go with the Eclipse any day over a JL.
I had a 1980 mustang and replaced the terrible dash speakers with the radio shack 3" midrange tweeter. I cut off half the monkey box to make it fit. These with 47uf caps and boston 704 fullrange in the doors delivered 500 to 20k pretty flat on the RTA. 4 6.5" Woofers with mids and tweets filled out the lows in the hatch.
A 30v DC to DC Converter powered the amp which was LF353 driving fets running on 44v.
This resulted in 130w into 4 ohms bridged.
I was young and like Tubelab, I gave the op amps tons of voltage which they took for years.
A 30v DC to DC Converter powered the amp which was LF353 driving fets running on 44v.
This resulted in 130w into 4 ohms bridged.
I was young and like Tubelab, I gave the op amps tons of voltage which they took for years.
Never heard of this but a quick search shows it to be a well built subwoofer driver. Seeing the huge rubber half roll surround, and the size of the magnet and how beefy that frame is, I would believe the 30mm xmax. It might be +/-15mm because 30mm would be 60mm total stroke. I don’t think that surround has that much travel.I found some old eclipse sw8122 12" subs on internet, 2 for 150€. Are they good? Internet tells me thay are sq subs. 140g mms 21bl with coils in series and 30+- mm xmax one way. Is that xmax real?
Aluminium voicecoil, witch i dont like, but they use very loose suspension to achieve a 27hz fs. I think that helps with sq too and efficiency but the vas is big 90L, again, compensates with a low qts 0.3
The search revealed many blown ones though for $20 as parts or for repair. So seems people drive these beyond the 30mm stroke too often? So be careful that it is still good if buying from eBay or net used.
I am trying to recall who built those for Eclipse, imported parts like most subs even back then, on manf built subs for a lot of brand name companies.
Most blow subs were caused by user error, or stupidity.....more power is better but does not make it louder once you pass what the sub can do, some still think cranking it up beyond that is music, it is distortion and creates a lot more heat thus melting voice coil wire coatings usually.
Search and you may find somebody that knows how to rebuild subs for a decent price if you find blown ones or burn one out yourself.
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If you ever want a cheap but dang fine single din older HU look for the Eclipse 8443, even a bit better the 8053, I used to have a few of each and have own audio comps with them. That was after my main comp systems were sold off to pay for business growth, properly installed, $2k system winning SQ and SQL comps.
Most blow subs were caused by user error, or stupidity.....more power is better but does not make it louder once you pass what the sub can do, some still think cranking it up beyond that is music, it is distortion and creates a lot more heat thus melting voice coil wire coatings usually.
Search and you may find somebody that knows how to rebuild subs for a decent price if you find blown ones or burn one out yourself.
--------------
If you ever want a cheap but dang fine single din older HU look for the Eclipse 8443, even a bit better the 8053, I used to have a few of each and have own audio comps with them. That was after my main comp systems were sold off to pay for business growth, properly installed, $2k system winning SQ and SQL comps.