I have being working on a 4th order version. The crossover then needs a second coil before the woofer plus impedance correction. The tweeter may need a second cap.
I can tune that version to any flatness but i think the additional components are a bit too much for my taste. I will stick with the second order filter.
If you want to construct a 4th order please go ahead.
I will publish a chard that shows how the crossover takes away signal from the tweeter
in the deeper regions with the second order version. I think it is protected well enough, even for high volume.
I can tune that version to any flatness but i think the additional components are a bit too much for my taste. I will stick with the second order filter.
If you want to construct a 4th order please go ahead.
I will publish a chard that shows how the crossover takes away signal from the tweeter
in the deeper regions with the second order version. I think it is protected well enough, even for high volume.
I really do not understand the problem with the parts values. They have to be quite exact or i do not get such good phase matching.
I think resistors and caps are no problem at all. The can be made by paralleling standard values. Also coils can be trimmed. You can buy bigger values and wind them down.
Then you need an LCR meter. I can show you one that is inexpensive but surprising accurate, that meter can be used for a lot of other purposes too.
I think resistors and caps are no problem at all. The can be made by paralleling standard values. Also coils can be trimmed. You can buy bigger values and wind them down.
Then you need an LCR meter. I can show you one that is inexpensive but surprising accurate, that meter can be used for a lot of other purposes too.
I use this one with good results all the time :Digital-Multimeter/RLC-Meter VC88C | ELV-Elektronik
Yes, I wonder that too..
I would like to hear something how this "boxes" actually sounds like? It's there any comparison with other high-end drivers like Skanning, Acutone or SS's best?
By the way has anybody went that far and constructed a 24db x-over with this satori drivers (yet?)
I agree with Mr. Gerhard that newer tweeters has an outstanding ability to withstand low cut-of freq/high power. Been feeding many normal "1 inch softdome/harddome" with over 250w (QSC RMX 1450) in my active system and occasionally played at serious levels without damage. (x-over 1,5khz to 2khz /24db mostly)
With SB29, 1,5khz is no problem and you can almost play as high as you want =) The satori version is probably even better with back-cup/front-plate in casted alu. (or similar)
Only the the very old Philips AD0160 i tested couldn't take this but that's another story
I would like to hear something how this "boxes" actually sounds like? It's there any comparison with other high-end drivers like Skanning, Acutone or SS's best?
By the way has anybody went that far and constructed a 24db x-over with this satori drivers (yet?)
I agree with Mr. Gerhard that newer tweeters has an outstanding ability to withstand low cut-of freq/high power. Been feeding many normal "1 inch softdome/harddome" with over 250w (QSC RMX 1450) in my active system and occasionally played at serious levels without damage. (x-over 1,5khz to 2khz /24db mostly)
With SB29, 1,5khz is no problem and you can almost play as high as you want =) The satori version is probably even better with back-cup/front-plate in casted alu. (or similar)
Only the the very old Philips AD0160 i tested couldn't take this but that's another story
It is a bit silent here because i ran into a mechanical problem. The rooting of the woofers is too tight in the factory made cabinets. I have to turn down the diameter of the woofers on a lathe a bit. It is maybe less then half of a millimeter.
I hope to solve that this week and then i will finish the speakers so that i can listen.
I hope to solve that this week and then i will finish the speakers so that i can listen.
cnc is so accurate you don't need to check router adjustment like we have to
it just does what its being told to do
but even painting and laquer needs to calculated
many forget that
if driver chassies are painted etc, it may even have been forgotten there too, and factory specs are no longer 100% accurate