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Old 28th November 2009, 07:42 PM   #11
HJL857 is offline HJL857  United States
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Sorry answered my own question , i will be placing a order.
thanks
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Old 30th November 2009, 06:01 PM   #12
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Russ; couple of dumb questions about Ventus.
You said that it could be connected from a single ended source---would that involve hooking the signal side to the (+) in and the ground to the (-) in? Also what power supply did you use or recommend? I was thinking placid.

Pete
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Old 30th November 2009, 07:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
would that involve hooking the signal side to the (+) in and the ground to the (-) in?
Yes.

Quote:
Also what power supply did you use or recommend? I was thinking placid.
We were thinking PlacidBP as well, though LCBPS would work fine.
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Old 30th November 2009, 10:38 PM   #14
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A couple of points I need to put in the manual (which I will try to get up soon).

1) Make sure you use the closest together pads for RVCC and RVEE unless you plan on reversing polarity of the LEDs and C5/C6 as well as swapping NPN/PNP transistors. I figured some people may want to experiemnt by using PNP input pairs etc. So I made the board support that option.

2) For non-inverting use: Reduce R2 to 221R and make R4 47K (this will set the input impedance). Connect -IN to GND. Then adjust R5 and R3 set the gain. Gain = 1+(R5/R3). For unity gain simply omit R3. For example. Using R5 of 1K and R3 of 1K would get you a voltage gain of 2, which is 6db.

3) For inverting use: Omit R2 and optionally decrease R4 (A range from 0R(jumper) to 1K should work fine). Then wire your input to -IN and GND. The gain is R5/R3. So using 1K for each R3 and R5 would get you unity gain inverted(-1). Remember that R3 will now set the input impedance of the cct. In this example 1K.

I hope that helps.

Cheers!
Russ
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Last edited by Russ White; 30th November 2009 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 1st December 2009, 01:21 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info guys. The "Ancient Order of Solder Slingers" appreciates your help!

Pete
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Old 1st December 2009, 01:23 PM   #16
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Also, if you are using the Placid to power it, you should leave the 1000uF caps (C1, C2) off.
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Old 1st December 2009, 03:29 PM   #17
Beefy is offline Beefy  Australia
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Is that because they aren't needed, of because it becomes a 'problem' from the shunt regulator?
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Old 1st December 2009, 04:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefy View Post
Is that because they aren't needed, of because it becomes a 'problem' from the shunt regulator?
They simply are not needed. It is not a problem at all in terms of causing any instability. While the capacitance can reduce the effectiveness of the shunt it is not a big deal. Brian is simply stating that if you plan on using placid you might as well omit them to get the best out of the placid. Keep the supply wiring as short as possible.

You can also RVCC and RVEE jumpers and omit C5 and C6 if you are using placidBP.

Cheers!
Russ
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Old 7th December 2009, 10:16 PM   #19
glt is offline glt  United States
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Default Opinion on "active gnd"

Since this is a single channel implementation, what is the opinion on using a third module for active gnd? (like some high end designs over at head-fi)

what is the voltage and current supply requirement for each module?
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Old 7th December 2009, 10:45 PM   #20
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Since this is a single channel implementation, what is the opinion on using a third module for active gnd? (like some high end designs over at head-fi)

what is the voltage and current supply requirement for each module?
Supply voltage range is +-12 to 18V (15V recommended). I have to dig out my notes for the current draw.
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Last edited by BrianDonegan; 23rd December 2009 at 12:58 PM.
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