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#61 |
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diyAudio Member
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Paul what you are seeing is normal. You can readjust both the CCS and the output voltage slightly after the heat sinks are warm. The warm output current will always be just a bit more than it will be cold.
You can decrease the CCS current to just what is needed by turning it down until output starts to sag while connected to the load, then turn it back up a few turns after it comes back to the desired voltage. Now you will have just a bit more current than you need. By tuning the supply to just what you need you will generate less heat. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. Last edited by Russ White; 18th October 2009 at 03:29 PM. |
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#62 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Washington, DC
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Quote:
Today the voltages started out at about 15.5 volts and gradually dropped close to where I reset them yesterday after they had drifted up over a two hour time period. I am letting them settle in and will tweak them once more. Thanks for comfirming the heat dissipation observation. If someone is looking for a drop-in replacement these might not work for some boxes. I have a Parmetal case with good venting and still my entire box warmed up. Regarding adjusting the CCS. Are there any other points where a voltage could be taken off? How about the un-populated pads for R1/R2? Would the voltage drop across these two points be directly proportional to the drop across R17/18 when the CCS adjustment pot is changed? The good news is that the DAC sounds great....
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#63 |
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diyAudio Member
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The voltage reference has a negative tempco. So it will tend to start up slightly higher than it will be at working temperature. So what I usually do is adjust for just under your target voltage. That way you never exceed you desired output voltage.
The movement is not very much and the less you heat the VREF section the less drift there will be. So I would adjust the CCS to deliver just what you need with a bit of overhead for the shunt. I will edit the manual to makes this clear. I am glad you are enjoying the DAC. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#64 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Washington, DC
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Quote:
So... if I adjust to the .25v suggested in the manual and R17/18 is 1ohm per the BOM then I must be running my supplies at .250A. If I want to get them down to ~.150A then I would adjust down to ~.15v. Is that correct? |
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#65 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Yes.
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#66 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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#67 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi All,
I just tried a set of the Placid supplies with a "stock" Buffalo24, with IVY II, and the improvement is very noticeable. I would like to try them also with my Buffalo32S but this unit is a bit "over-tweaked" for a fair comparison between the Placid's and the LCDPS/LCBPS. Nic |
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#68 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: DK
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Quote:
Powering the IVY ?
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Join http://TurnMeUp.org |
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#69 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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IVYII only exists on B32. I think he means IVY 2.0. Yeah, that's much more clear...
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#70 |
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diyAudio Member
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OK, with an IVY 2.0 (actually moderately tweaked according to TPA instructions). I only have the honor of Sir IVY the 2nd on the B32
Anyway, I did first the change of the VA supply and then afterwards the VD. The change was definitely most evident with the VA supply. I will not test much more with this configurations as I have the Counterpoint I/V that I find quite a bit better than the IVY 2.0. I just have to check a few thing with current draw etc. Nic |
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