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Old 11th August 2013, 06:51 PM   #91
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Ofcourse its needed. we are the DIY community remember!
This sticky was long overdue. Most audio valves have been hyped to a point where some types are not even usefull for new designs as the cost of replacing them in the future would be enormous.

But then again. NOS PL36 can still be had for very little, so why not profit?
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Old 14th August 2013, 02:44 AM   #92
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this used to be a 6V6 pp amp, now it uses a teevee vertical output tube mentioned somewhere else....
even the tube rectifier used a 3DG4 tube
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Old 20th August 2013, 03:49 PM   #93
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I've got a box full of 12BQ6GTB/12CU6 and 13GB5/XL500 bought off the dollar list. The 12BQ6 are all "El-Menco" brand, made in Farmingdale, NY. The 13GB5's are mostly RCA with a pair of GE and one Admiral. Probably will use these in guitar amps with both high and low gain front ends. Haven't started on one, yet.
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Old 20th August 2013, 04:47 PM   #94
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I assume that you got these from ESRC?

Elmenco was a manufacturer of capacitors in the 40's and 50's. Somebody began using that name to sell tubes after the cap company went away. They are all relabled tubes from other vendors. I just put together an amp using 6CB5's. They are labled El-Menco but were made by Sylvania.

I got 150 of the 13GB5's from ESRC. They are various brands but they seem to come in three flavors.

One is marked "made in Holland" or "made in the UK" they have a metallic ring painted on the outside of the glass. They are made by Mullard. Your US branded tubes are probably these. They are the strongest ones and I have seen 150 watts flow from a pair!

One is marked "made in Korea" I don't know who made them but they look rather wimpy.

I have seen pictures of tubes that have the letters USA printed just below the 13GB5 number. Thes look like US made Sylvanias.

I believe Matsushita or Hitachi made the 13GB5 but I have never seen one.
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Old 20th August 2013, 11:23 PM   #95
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Default Flopsey & Mopsey

Here are a couple of TV HD types that have some excellent loadlines. These are the 6JM6 and the 6JN6. So what's the difference? Other than one has a plate cap, and the other doesn't, the *JN6 has a somewhat smaller Crt. The plate characteristics are the same. The loadline shows a very low estimate for H3, and these could put out some 50W. The 3K4 (P-2-P) load impedance should come close to stock OPTs.

Might not be so good for screen drive, as the V2k spec is a bit higher, coming in at 220Vdc. For conventional grid drive, however, these could prove quite useful. They also come in some odd heater voltages: 16.8V/0.45A for both types, and 12.6V/0.6A for the 6JN6.

Here, you can select your types and have identical performance for those cases where you'd like to avoid a plate cap.

Both require the duodecar, 12 pin socket.

One possible downside is that this type seems liable to snivets. That means either screen stoppers and/or a positive bias on the beam formers, which are brought out on their own pins, not internally connected to the cathode. Still, a type well worth considering.
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Old 21st August 2013, 12:24 AM   #96
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Horiz. Outputs:

6JN6, 6JM6, 6GE5, 6GV5, 6DQ6B, 6FW5 (17 Watt) all apparently the same tube except for pinout and capping details. 6GV5 and 12GE5 were available for 1$ for the last two years. A smaller version, the 6GF5 is still available at 1$, (smaller bottle, only 9W, but great for a HV screen or CFB driver at 770V B+ rated)

Then there are the 6HB5, 6GY5, 6JZ6, 16/21KA6, 21JV6, 6KE6 bunch (18 Watt), some of which (odd fil. V) were available at 1$. 16/21GY5 still are $1. These are all very similar spec wize to the 13GB5, but on a compactron base.
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Old 21st August 2013, 12:31 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miles Prower View Post
Might not be so good for screen drive, as the V2k spec is a bit higher, coming in at 220Vdc.
So what's a good candidate for single ended screen drive? I'm itchin' to try something like an EAR 859, but could be something smaller, as power out isn't a big deal. I have some 6BG6GA's and a few other sweep tubes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miles Prower View Post
For conventional grid drive, however, these could prove quite useful. They also come in some odd heater voltages: 16.8V/0.45A for both types, and 12.6V/0.6A for the 6JN6.
Pete Millett's DCPP aka. "Big Red Board" uses them. I'm using 6JM6's in mine, as I have a thing for top caps.

jeff

Last edited by vinylkid58; 21st August 2013 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 21st August 2013, 01:03 AM   #98
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For screen drive you need to look at gm2 at equivalent plate currents.
Some cases rated at 80 mA plate current:

6HJ5 2380 (24 Watt tube)
21HB5A 2450 (18 Watt tube)
6DQ5 2573 (24 Watt tube)
6JN6.... 1905 (17 Watt tube)
6JG6A 2440 (17 Watt tube)
6CB5 2158 (26 Watt tube)
6LB6 2845 (30 Watt tube)
6L6 799 (30 Watt tube)
EL34 916 (25 Watt tube)
6LR6 3267 (30 Watt tube)
16/21KA6 2450 (18 Watt tube)
13GB5 1750 (17 Watt tube)

The last two tube types above are still available at $1 each.
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Old 21st August 2013, 02:29 AM   #99
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Ok, thanks. I can get 6CB5's cheap locally, so that's probably going to be the candidate.

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Old 4th October 2013, 04:58 PM   #100
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Default Anyone else here a fan of dampers?

When employing all these cool sweeps, do y'all use any 6AF3/6AL3/6AU4/6AX4/6AY3/6BL4/6BS3/6CJ3/6CL3/6CM3/6CK3/6CT3/6DL3/6DM4/6DT4/6DW4/6V3A/etc?

If you study their specs, and compare the output of these to "the usual (full-wave) suspects" on a scope, you can see that they're actually superior to 5V 5-pin rectifiers for power supplies.
I can't be the only one here who's been using these (over conventional octal recs) for years.

They have so many advantages:

First off, you're not limited to FWCT configuration – you can build a half-wave, doubler, or even an all-tube bridge rectifier if you want.

Next, as they're indirectly heated, have 6.3V filaments, and (generally) high h-k voltages, you can use the same trafo winding as your other tubes' heaters – (no need for a separate 5V supply!)

They'll also take a bigger "first cap" (in CLC), and they're dirt cheap.* For instance, you could buy two NOS 6DL3's with sockets and plate caps for less money than a 5Y3GT or GZ34 (and get better performance IMHO).
*(with the possible exception of 6AX4, recently)

Finally (and most important of all), they're super clean – less reverse leakage than any sand rectifier (or FW tube rec), and lower voltage drop than FW recs as well.

I know Lynn Olson is also a big proponent of dampers; I'd like to think he got the idea from me, rather than the other way around.
(Actually, it's probably more like an Alexander Graham Bell/Elisha Gray thing).

P.S.: Lately, I've been really liking the Russian 6Д22С, 6Д20П, and 6Ц19П dampers. (Yeah, plate caps are inconvenient, but their price/performance is worth it).
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