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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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What is the point in feedback shunted by 220 uF capacitor?
__________________
The devil is not so terrible as his mathematical model! Wavebourn: We Create Creativity! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Don't know. I'm just a noob that builds what the schematic shows. That's why I brought this here to sort out the bugs before I try it.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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It works. I've built nearly the same once. Try it.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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So how does it sound?
Any improvements to the circuit to recommend? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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how about UL PSE or PP output stage, with ccs cathode, or leds
may be worth to have a sneak peek on this one http://www.dhtrob.com/projecten/el84_6bw6_pp_4.shtml |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
I've used for the driver tube 100R 2W triode strapping resistor 270R 5W cathode resistor bypassed with 100uf 50v cap 8K 10W anode load resistor 300 volts B2 voltage |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks "tin" what an interesting site!
"sp", I'm sorry to say that I need a schematic to work off of and told specificly where things go although I know the basics of your recommendations. Thanka ya... Last edited by tweakk; 7th March 2011 at 11:06 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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The basic premise of this circuit is false. A particular valve has a particular 'sound' at a particular point in a particular circuit carrying a particular signal at a particular bias point. Using the same valve twice does not mean that you get more of that sound.
In this case the input EL84 is used in triode mode at one bias, while the output is run as a pentode with a different bias. The signal in the first valve will be much smaller than in the second valve. In addition, the circuit has some shortcomings. The first stage has a grid stopper, but not the second stage where it is more likely to be useful. The first stage relies on the volume pot wiper staying in contact with the track. Better to have a coupling capacitor and a grid leak resistor. Finally, as other have said, the feedback goes to a decoupled point so will have no effect except possibly to create infrasonic instability. The website is full of fine sounding words, but a poor design based on a misunderstanding. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Seems like you're in a bad mood DF.
Where does the guy get unreasonable with "fine sounding words". He just sensibly offers the concept, advises researching the origin and then states: "I'm not looking for anything quite so exotic - I'd be happy with a clean 3-5 watts per channel from a fairly straightforward and simple circuit that utilizes commonly available and widely manufactured valves." Your fixes to the circuit are noted but minor are they not? When I build this I'll try it your way. BTW the feedback doesn't go anywhere because none is implemented in the final design. As far as the EL84 sound not adding together I'll bet it's a lot closer than using different tubes. Besides the EL84 is not too shabby as a driver and output tube so why not? What you seem to be missing from the original article and this thread is the fun factor. Lighten up brother...
Last edited by tweakk; 8th March 2011 at 12:15 PM. |
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