Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

diyAudio Sponsor

Search for a tube at thetubestore.com                            Product reviews and more

Audio tubes for any amplifier: from high end home audio to classic guitar amps.

Quick links by tube type: 12AX7, EL34, 6L6, KT66, 6550, KT88, EL84, 12AU7, 12AT7, 6922, 6H30, 300B, 6V6, 6SN7 

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 14th July 2009, 12:32 PM   #1
Brit01 is offline Brit01  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Default Cathode Follower confusion

I'm trying out various types of CF's and have started with this simple design.

I am having trouble understanding why I have such a low voltage on the grid (24V). I understand I need a 6 volt difference between cathode and grid, for a CD players 2 V input (6 volt swing). I could use 3 leds for the cathode resistor I guess.

I have tried adjusting the resistor values but have had no luck. I tried MJ's example but had only 8 volts on the grid

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Strangely it sounds quite good as I tried it through some test speakers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cf proto.jpg (30.0 KB, 628 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 12:35 PM   #2
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
I understand I need a 6 volt difference between cathode and grid, for a CD players 2 V input (6 volt swing).
Nope. There's your misunderstanding. You need roughly 6V/mu. Remember, the cathode follows the grid.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 01:08 PM   #3
Brit01 is offline Brit01  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Hi SY,

Maybe these explanations threw me off the track:

Quote:
Remembering that the quiescent voltage shown on the load line actually indicates the anode to cathode voltage, the actual quiescent voltage on the cathode is therefore equal to the HT - Vak. An easy way to read off the true cathode voltage quickly is to add a reversed voltage scale to the graph, whose '0V' point corresponds to the HT. In this case the load line indicates that the voltage across the valve is 140V. The cathode voltage must therefore be HT-Vak = 280-140 = 140V. The grid voltage must be 140+(-3.4) = 136.6V
From the Valve wizard:


http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/accf.html

it's showing 140 Volts on the cathode and 136 on the grid.

Am I missing something?
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 01:42 PM   #4
Yvesm is offline Yvesm  France
diyAudio Member
 
Yvesm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ardeche
You cannot have 170V at the cathode and 26V at the grid simultaneously... unless your tube is dead !

But, how do you measure ?
What is the voltage at the junction of R2/R5 ?

Yves.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 01:45 PM   #5
Brit01 is offline Brit01  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
That's what is confusing me. Tubes are fine. I tried many different types.

I will measure the junction when I get home.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 07:49 PM   #6
Osprey is offline Osprey  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Your numbers, at least on the schematic do not add up.

I'll go by the schematic as I am not sure what the rest of your post means. The voltage on the cathode is 170V, divided by the cathode resistor 16kohms gives a cathode current of 10mA. That all sounds correct. Now multiply the 130 ohm bias resistor by the cathode current to give you the voltage drop across it which is about 1.4V. That is your bias voltage. R2 is your bias resistor and you will need to adjust it to get your proper current through the tube.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 08:15 PM   #7
Brit01 is offline Brit01  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Thks. Yep 10mA is good. Maybe a little more for the 6N1P.

Still confused about how much bias voltage I need for a CF.

I thought it was about 6V but not sure after SY's comments.

6V would mean having 600 ohm bias resistor if current remains at 10ma.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 08:57 PM   #8
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Blog Entries: 1
How much cathode-to-grid voltage you need can be figured out from the tube's curves. Then you can back into what value bias resistor you need, just as you said.

FWIW, the Heretical preamp (a cathode follower circuit) has about 1.7V grid to cathode and happily swings 10V.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2009, 09:07 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
oldmanStrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Quote:
Originally posted by Brit01

6V would mean having 600 ohm bias resistor if current remains at 10ma.
if you look at your measurements you have 170 volts at the cathode. That is the voltage you need to use to calculate the current through R2 & R5. The 6V number is the delta between your cathode and grid (and is your bias voltage) although yours is much lower in this circuit.

hope that helps
__________________
For security reasons my name is changed daily...
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th July 2009, 12:19 AM   #10
Osprey is offline Osprey  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Quote:
Still confused about how much bias voltage I need for a CF.

I thought it was about 6V but not sure after SY's comments.

6V would mean having 600 ohm bias resistor if current remains at 10ma.
If you change the bias resistor to a different value the current will change too. That's the bias resistor's job: it adjusts the current going through the tube.

If you increase the bias resistor to increase head room, the tube will draw less current. If you need more current, then increase the B+, but you will have to adjust the bias resistor again.

I don't really understand if you have built this or not, but my suggestion is to use a 500ohm pot (make it at least 1W) as a bias resistor and put a 200 ohm resistor between the pot and the load resistor so that there is always some V on the grid. Vary the pot and measure the current.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
cathode follower vlljpior Tubes / Valves 6 22nd March 2005 07:50 PM
Question about direct coupling a anode follower into a cathode follower. G Tubes / Valves 45 29th July 2004 06:47 PM
cathode follower ackcheng Tubes / Valves 2 6th July 2004 03:12 PM
Cathode Follower? Yay or nay? SHiFTY Tubes / Valves 25 16th March 2004 06:38 AM
cathode follower olvrkrg Tubes / Valves 3 21st February 2004 09:49 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:18 AM.

Page generated in 0.12281 seconds (81.63% PHP - 18.37% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio