That sounds about right for reasonably close proximity to transformer (hf/flyback/pulse). If its from someone else in an adjoining room theres not much you can do. If it might be in your room/s then switch everything off one thing at a time. Wall warts, phone chargers, anything like that could do it.
Several epoxies can stall it, but none are hermetic.
We have this exact problem with the MLI blankets we use in cryogenics..multiple layers of alternating aluminized mylar and a thin papery gauze. If we blow a hole in the vacuum of the cryostat while a magnet is cold, the magnet structure immediately becomes a large popsicle of solid oxygen, nitrogen, argon and CO2, with water mixed in...After warmup, the insulation doesn't fare well.
I just never considered this as a concern with film caps..thanks for the info.
jn
'Amp ground' is a large area...If you use an input resistor at the amp input, measure across this resistor, that will give you the effective input noise. Assuming you follow the routine that you 'carry' this ground of the input resistor to the actual circuitry ground and not to/through a chassis or sumptin.
Remember - a node has no 'voltage' on its own - voltage is always the difference between two nodes.
And use a very short ground strap on the scope probe.
Jan
I for one can't stand those CFL bulbs. The light color bothers me and I assume as with any fluorescent bulb there is a high frequency flicker that is just unacceptable to me. Another thing I have noticed is that many of those screw in replacements for a standard incandescent bulb don't last any longer than an old fashioned bulb, some go even faster. So now we have a more expensive assembly that has to be replaced at a high cost way to often and then you are adding that mercury to the trash stream. How many people actually dispose of those things just like batteries to a recycler and don't just add them to their normal trash, not many I bet. Give me incandescent any day, not so sure about the color rendition of the led lighting in a room lighting application either, perhaps I am just being an old fuddy duddy but the blue hue seems kind of strange to me.
Then buy a lamp that has a 2700-3000K colour temp(warm). Look for a lamp that has a higher (CRI) colour rendering index, most are a "7", but higher quality lamps are "8-9". Usually higher CRI lamps have more red spectrum. I prefer 830, 8= CRI, 30 =3000K, which is the most common. Go to an electrical distributor, to buy your lighting products, not Home Depot.
Lets face it, cfl's for domestic use (integrated lamp and ballast) are junk, throw away items. Just like the cell phone. You can buy a separate ballast and lamp (the green thing to do), but the old fixtures were designed for a incand. "A" lamp(bulb)
Ever read a cfl warranty, "send your defective lamp to Danvers,Mass,USA (Sylvania's home) and we will/may send you a new one". It costs me more $ to send it to the mfg, than it is worth.
We shall see how long it takes, before mercury is out of lighting. It is like taking petroleum out of our cars.
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what #? P????
When I did ecl work, we always used the fet probes with the probes accessories for a very short ground loop. We even made sure that we had lots of ground test points on the pcb.
Eek, 6500K, great for seedlings, but I am not one. On this one Richard we are spectrum opposites!! to each their own.
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I've never seen a 6500 light. 5000 is kinda bluish, 3000 was warm.
is it possible that 30Khz is a flat panel scan frequency?
jn
Turn everything off except the scope and DUT. Unplugg wall worts etc.
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6500 is somewhat new --- came to hardware stores in California a couple years ago.
White light or 'daylight' is natural and easy to read by. Night time in the house looks like day time which may not be to every ones liking but you can buy and try.
THx-RNM
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6500 is somewhat new --- came to hardware stores in California a couple years ago.
White light or 'daylight' is natural and easy to read by. Night time in the house looks like day time
which may not be to every ones liking but you can buy and try. THx-RNM
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