Is the listed 165mm internal height for the 4U case above the 10x10 grid baseplate or total? The baseplate looks to be about 10 mm deep, is this correct? I'm playing with parts to see what I can stuff inside once my cases get here.
Does the shipment in transit include more 4U and 2U handles? I would like them, but want my amps to look alike, and I'm guessing others are waiting to see what becomes available, too.
Thanks for doing this, Jason.
Does the shipment in transit include more 4U and 2U handles? I would like them, but want my amps to look alike, and I'm guessing others are waiting to see what becomes available, too.
Thanks for doing this, Jason.
Hi Bob,
Correct - about 10mm. The heatsink brackets are ~1.5mm and the base when installed is ~8mm, comprised in itself of a floor of ~1.5mm and flange edge of ~6.5mm.
So the heatsink is 165mm, and you have 155mm left to play with if you mount the base with the perforated holes towards the top of the chassis. If you mount the base with the holes towards the bottom of the chassis, you get another ~6.5mm.
There are more 4U handles on the way however there are 4U and 2U handles in stock right now.
Any more questions please ask. I know more about the interior dimensions of those chassis than I care to admit! More diagrams will be forthcoming, right now I'm taking a bit of a break while things are in transit to get other things done.
Gotcha! Ok I see the problem... I have activated pre-ordering for the 4U handles now then so if you want 2 to pre-order instead of the 1 that was left in stock you can do that now
As for the caps, perhaps you could either use our PSU board and mount it to the back of the front panel, or put a riser on the back of the front panel and use your own PSU board, or use a riser internally somehow... but yes the 5U is a lot more space to play with!
Ah, I see we are missing some of the internal measurements. I'll find that out for you and update all our listings so every one has the internal dimensions in there (if they exist, they are on the product information page).
they are
internal width 360mm, internal height 80mm
also possible to find other specs by looking at 'spare parts'
UPS...that was for the dissipante with heatsinks
Pesante(no heatsink), internal width is 430mm, height is 80mm
I suppose internal height is the real important one to know
Went shopping for enclosures and failed twice.
For discrete amp, I'd surely like to see a "full width" steel /w heatsinks, 3u enclosure, with 3mm front panel and "maximally vented" top panel. Perfect. Where is it?
And for the chip amp forum, I'd like to see a Galaxy 388 with 3mm front panel and "maximally vented" top panel. Any chance on updating Galaxy 388 (3mm Front) - Compact with Quasi Heatsinks - Chassis with better ventilation that so that it doesn't cook the capacitors? You know, in the chip amp forum, there's a lot of agonizing over finding just the perfect capacitors. So, it wouldn't be nice to boil them. Even if "only" a chip amplifier, I would prefer it to last a long time.
Currently, the maximum vents with Galaxy 388 corresponds to a 10mm front panel that obstructs the installation of potentiometers and indicators. OOPS! Egads! That doesn't make sense. Need that max vents top panel on the enclosure that has the 3mm front panel.
For discrete amp, I'd surely like to see a "full width" steel /w heatsinks, 3u enclosure, with 3mm front panel and "maximally vented" top panel. Perfect. Where is it?
And for the chip amp forum, I'd like to see a Galaxy 388 with 3mm front panel and "maximally vented" top panel. Any chance on updating Galaxy 388 (3mm Front) - Compact with Quasi Heatsinks - Chassis with better ventilation that so that it doesn't cook the capacitors? You know, in the chip amp forum, there's a lot of agonizing over finding just the perfect capacitors. So, it wouldn't be nice to boil them. Even if "only" a chip amplifier, I would prefer it to last a long time.
Currently, the maximum vents with Galaxy 388 corresponds to a 10mm front panel that obstructs the installation of potentiometers and indicators. OOPS! Egads! That doesn't make sense. Need that max vents top panel on the enclosure that has the 3mm front panel.
You can use shaft extenders to place pots and source selectors back near the input jacks and shorten the signal path.
If just an indicator LED, I like AndrewT's suggestion a post ago. Displays are a bit more problematic, but even with a 3 mm panel I would send it to a machine shop. Or buy a replacement from front panel express once I messed up my attempt to cut the opening myself.
If just an indicator LED, I like AndrewT's suggestion a post ago. Displays are a bit more problematic, but even with a 3 mm panel I would send it to a machine shop. Or buy a replacement from front panel express once I messed up my attempt to cut the opening myself.
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FYI - If you are getting one of the new Deluxe chassis (4U or 5U) there is a pilot hole already drilled approximately 1/3 of the way down from the top. You can flip the front panel so it's 1/3 of the way down from the bottom, as you desire. Completing the hole, which is a 3mm hole, is intended to be as easy as just sticking your drill in there and pushing through the last few mm. Maybe we can get someone to make a video demo when they get their hands on one.
That would be neat In the pictures on the product page there is a diagram which shows the exact location of the holes. It would be great to see someone using that feature, as it would be great to see what people get up to with the risers... there's a lot of flexibility there for those that look. We don't really have the resources to do a good job of marketing it but we did spend a lot of time agonizing over how to make it all fit really well One day we'll get around to making some nice pictures and a video of how it all comes together...
In the pictures on the product page there is a diagram which shows the exact location of the holes. It would be great to see someone using that feature, as it would be great to see what people get up to with the risers... there's a lot of flexibility there for those that look. We don't really have the resources to do a good job of marketing it but we did spend a lot of time agonizing over how to make it all fit really well One day we'll get around to making some nice pictures and a video of how it all comes together...
Hey Jason, Has the shipment cleared customs? Can you tell I am eager to get my chassis?
Oops. Missed the status update. Shipping on my birthday. Yay!
Yep, it has just cleared customs! Unfortunately there was a delay due to the implementation of a new rule by customs on July 9th that we didn't know about which caused some headaches, but that's all been sorted out now.
As for mounting LEDs - you can use a plastic bushing mount that one use to get many years ago when you buy LEDS - or - do as I have done and drill out the LED hole with a normal drill a smidgen smaller than the outside LED diameter and then get a "number drill" ( use a vernier calliper to measure the LED ) to drill out the hole to the correct diameter. The LED should be a snug, but not a loose fit. Use a very sharp drill and remove any burrs after making the hole, but keep the hole edging sharp and neat. Try the hole first for fit on some scrap metal sheet before drilling your front panel out. In that way if there is an error in drilling, you can correct it before attacking your front panel. Use the drill press on high speed with a NEW, sharp, numbered drill bit. Don't push the drill through the hole, but let it cut naturally as its own rate. This stops the hole from burring and developing a lip on the edge.
After drilling the hole, fit the LED and then use the smallest fraction of a drop of super-glue to hold the LED into the panel. Too much super glue makes the LED go cloudy and one has to scratch it off to clean it up. Avoid this if possible. Alternatively use some 5 minute epoxy glue on the rear of the LED and panel to hold it on place. Sleeve the leads with some insulation sleeving. Mark the +ve and -ve connections of the LED with a marker pen on the panel rear. I prefer super-glue as it's less messy.
If done properly, the job should look very clean and professional.
To remove the LED ( in case of a fault ) press the front of the LED with a flat piece of smooth plastic ( I use the dome end of a plastic screw driver handle ), or soft wood, so the front panel is not damaged, and it should snap out of the hole quite easily with a bit of pressure.
All the best !