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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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I'm keen on making a sub similar in design to the PMC TLE1:
http://www.pmcloudspeaker.com/tle1.html I really like the design both aesthetically and in it's nature. The idea of deep extending, low distortion bass is very appealing . I am looking at the Morel HU631 for drivers. They are the right dimensions, a reasonable price and have specs (just about) suitable for a TL design. They are also readily available to me :http://www.morelhifi.com/products/pdf/hu%20631.pdf The relatively low QMS might be less than optimal though . Qes and (presumably most critically) Qts fall into the suggested range though. I found this calculator to help design the TL with. I'm not 100% on the tuning though; would you tune it to the lowest frequency you need, or does it need to relate to the drivers resonant frequency somehow? I'm also unsure on the exact meaning of some of the terms. http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#transmissionline Width ca. is presumably the width of the cabinet? With 2 drivers the total SD is 238CM, which gives a reasonable value of 23.76cm assuming that is indeed what it is. I'm not sure on the meaning of "Opening behind driver"? The TML opening = the total driver SD and just refers to the size of opening at the end of the line? Is that calculator especially relevant to folded line designs? I assume it'll still behave similarly or do the folds slow it down and thus make the required line shorter? Any opinions? Would love to try it if it's likely to work properly
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#2 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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This is an attractive looking sub. Using two 6.5" drivers makes for a very slim box. The issue I have is that they clain to have a true TM line of 3 metres inside. That would make the line very narrow. Martin J. King ( TML Guru) advises the start of the line should be equal to SD and taper inwards to the end for best results.
Having built TML speakers before based on his research, I have to agree. With that said I am sure that the sub sounds good. I just have to question is there is an easier way to achieve the same results. IMO yes. http://www.quarter-wave.com/ |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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Thanks for your reply
![]() Yes, I am arriving at numbers around 3 metres with that calculator too (which makes sense with my tuning being 22hz and the driver SD by nature being almost identical to the PMC design). So you are suggesting a shorter line may yeild the same results? That is an interesting idea. I don't mind making the sub slightly deeper to fit the full line in if it is worth doing though. The start of the line should have a cross section of 238CM for those drivers then? The final opening should also be 238CM? Does the line need to remain at 238CM cross section throughout or not, if it tapers inwards then it'll somehow need to go out again for the opening to be the correct size; or should it be a bit smaller? The articles on that page are a bit high level for me . How would I decide the tuning? Can it be anything (like the 22hz of the PMC design), or does it somehow need to relate to the Fs (though 22hz is actually half the driver Fs in this case).
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#4 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Sorry, by tapers I mean narrows. Cross section area should reduce to half SD( around 100-140 sq. cm) I was not saying that the whole line will fit in the box, the box is too small. The definition of TL is blurry with several different interpretations floating around. I, and thousand of others, subscribe to Martin King's definition. He has produced scientific models for TL speakers that have been proven accurate.
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#5 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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That calculator is useless. It is based on obselete classical TL methodology.
1st off Sd has nothing to do with a TL (unfortunately Martin chose it as a variable unit of area which confuses things). The parameter that is important -- just like in every other kind of box -- is the Vas.And as soon as you taper the line it has to get shorter. And why, with 2 drivers, would you not mount the drivers push-push? The benefts are so large that it seems totally a waste. I'll alert Scott to have a look at your app. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:"That calculator is useless. It is based on obselete classical TL methodology."
Dave: You are refering to the MHSOFT link in post#1? Not Martin King's mathcad models? I worked with those models for 3 months to design the speakers that I am currently using. The drivers are the Scanspeak D2905/9300 and the Vifa PL18WO0908. I have smooth bass response down to ~28Hz. Nothing like a vented box. I also buildt a TL with an old MAX Pentivent 12" with an impossibly high VAS (338) that in every other box configuration sounds like crap. In the 120" TL, it found a home, impersonating a 15" As you can tell, im a firm believer. |
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#7 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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I'll have a look at those drivers & see if we can come up with something in MathCad. Specs look OK for TL loading. Just remember, it's not going to be particularly small! As Dave says, forget that TL calculator. Doesn't work. Especially inaccurate for tapered lines BTW. Tuning frequency of a TL / QWR is dependant upon both length and taper, not just length.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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Thanks for the replies
That would be ace if you could figure out some dimensions for those drivers in TL configuration as I'm starting to think I can't very well on my own . I already bought some of the electrical parts for this since there was a special offer at my supplier today, so hopefully I will end up with a useable design. I don't mind if the cabinet is a little taller or deeper than the PMC model but i'd like to keep it narrow. Thier design is fairly large but has unusual dimensions to give it a smaller appearance (and footprint). Push pull mounting is an interesting point. I guess the design aspect was considered quite highly so they stuck with having both drivers visable (which looks nicer imo). If there are serious advantages to using push pull configurations in this TL design I might think about it more (especially if it makes it easier to achieve the same results). |
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#10 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
The morel has a nice basket for push-push but the rear pole-piece vent (a necessary evil in many cases) means you have to allow clearance for that -- you could probably get away with a box 160 mm (6 1/4") wide, which would be less than if front mounted. I'd probably go a bit wider thou or you end up with more issues with the TL fold(s). And if it is push-push you could get away with 12 or 15 mm plywood which would further shrink the box size. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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