Hi all,
There are plenty of threads on this build and I've gathered most info that I was curious about so far but, I have a couple of questions that I wonder if anyone would care to clear up, please?
(Sorry I know this is a boring thread)
I have emailed him but no response so here goes (I'm sure he is much in demand tbh)
1) The designs specify 19mm board but we only have 18mm MDF here in the UK. Will this make a difference in performance? There would only be a few mm off of a few measurements.
2) Has anyone built these and found a way to make the driver removable or are they accessible once the cab is built?
3) The plans on his site don't give the angles for the inner walls, does anyone know these or is it a case of guessing?
4) I use MINIDSP, is it worth including the inductor?
5) is the internal wall bracing essential and will the lack of it effect the port volume?
6) Is the non-neo version of this driver be compatible? Specs look the same but xmax is higher.
TIA!
There are plenty of threads on this build and I've gathered most info that I was curious about so far but, I have a couple of questions that I wonder if anyone would care to clear up, please?
(Sorry I know this is a boring thread)
I have emailed him but no response so here goes (I'm sure he is much in demand tbh)
1) The designs specify 19mm board but we only have 18mm MDF here in the UK. Will this make a difference in performance? There would only be a few mm off of a few measurements.
2) Has anyone built these and found a way to make the driver removable or are they accessible once the cab is built?
3) The plans on his site don't give the angles for the inner walls, does anyone know these or is it a case of guessing?
4) I use MINIDSP, is it worth including the inductor?
5) is the internal wall bracing essential and will the lack of it effect the port volume?
6) Is the non-neo version of this driver be compatible? Specs look the same but xmax is higher.
TIA!
I can answer
1: Does not matter
2: You can access it without any problem if you place the woofer in such position the screws are accessible.
3: Look closer both have measurements on the internal panels.
4: No need to use inductor with active processing.
5: With the two fold yes (the long one), with the multifold not required.
6: It will probably fit.
Before you going to build. I found that the output is ok but pretty weak in volume. The driver will make noise at moderate volumes. maybe if i build 4 of them the output will be enough. Better find a suitable 10" or 12" design for just more power and oompf.
Also i found the Tham 6 that I builded at the same time sounded better.
You can find it in my gallery.
1: Does not matter
2: You can access it without any problem if you place the woofer in such position the screws are accessible.
3: Look closer both have measurements on the internal panels.
4: No need to use inductor with active processing.
5: With the two fold yes (the long one), with the multifold not required.
6: It will probably fit.
Before you going to build. I found that the output is ok but pretty weak in volume. The driver will make noise at moderate volumes. maybe if i build 4 of them the output will be enough. Better find a suitable 10" or 12" design for just more power and oompf.
Also i found the Tham 6 that I builded at the same time sounded better.
You can find it in my gallery.
I wouldn't be tempted to build either design, as both don't pay attention to what's happening in that octave above the passband (both exhibit deep notches). Some of the sim data for the Volveter horn is incorrect as well (using CON instead of PAR segments for example).
If I had those drivers to work with, I'd probably opt for some sort of offset TL or MLTL design.
If I had those drivers to work with, I'd probably opt for some sort of offset TL or MLTL design.
Hey,I built this,and i'm blasting it right now,no problem with it,I used a combination of 18 and 19mm material,no need for inductor when used with dsp.Make sure you find a driver with a tough cone and a long excursion(the ones you get of home theather systems are perfect).start by gluing the three angled pieces together at 90 degrees and then glue then to the rest at the correct angle,seal it up very well and then it's good to go,but it is very heavy so make sure you don't drop it on you foot.
See attached image, which is the sim'd FR of the Volvotreter 6.5 TH, with the recommended series inductors (it's worse without the inductors). I've illustrated the problematic area, which occurs just above the 100 Hz passband.
It's quite likely that this notch can be avoided with a properly-designed offset TL or MLTL.
Attachments
Interesting, thanks. My aim is to make a pair from these TB 6.5"s and cross over at 120hz. Both designers say that the simulated irratic FR is less noticeable in real life and the design of the THAM series says he crosses over at 200hz.
I am in my infancy of speaker design, I am competent at bass reflex (thanks to your help), would the design styles you mention be punching above my skill-weight?
The reason I have looked at this is it would be an interesting first time foray in to tapped horns. Also, space is an issue that the Volvotreter design fits perfectly in to.
I am in my infancy of speaker design, I am competent at bass reflex (thanks to your help), would the design styles you mention be punching above my skill-weight?
The reason I have looked at this is it would be an interesting first time foray in to tapped horns. Also, space is an issue that the Volvotreter design fits perfectly in to.
If the notch was not there, then that means that the sim does not match the actual build, another reason to avoid it.
Look, I'm not saying that these designs are bad. I'm saying that it should be possible to do better - basically come up with an alignment that had a smooth response for about an octave above the upper part of the design passband, which will make x-over work a bit easier.
Thanks Brian. Yes, that is logical. I think redesigning it is a bit beyond my realms of skill. However, can I pass(band) the gauntlet to you? hehe
Thanks for your input. I feel that the design is worth a punt since the drivers are removable and will only cost me the MDF!!
+1, nobody's mentioned that it includes a series inductor, hence the bottom line for me with this ~4 ohm driver is that between its tiny Vas, relatively high Qts, any typical T/S vented/horn alignment ideally needs to be designed for at least series connected duals.
GM
Can you recommend any that are around 65cm in height?
I have a small space to deal with and 70cm would be a push.
I have a small space to deal with and 70cm would be a push.
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