Then it's definitely the wrong driver for that job. You can put it in a box and get some bass from it, but you'd get much better results from a driver that's more suited to that particular use.
Well I have two of these drivers and have had them for a while and I don't have the money to go out and buy another one. Is there anything that's the closest to where you suggest I do?
Well like I said before I'm using winISD to make a custom box and I need to know the tuning frequency. I'm thinking about tuning the boxes to 20 Hertz
These are not suitable for vented boxes. BUT - If you don't care about power handling, try a 200Liter (7 cubic foot box) tuned to 20Hz. You'll have all the bragging rights. F3 of 17 Hz or so.
Then if you don't break them, try putting in a 2 cubic foot sealed box and putting them in the corner of your room.
Or even better, cut a couple holes in a closet door and use the closet as an enclosure.
Or put them in a W-baffle free air enclosure....
Then if you don't break them, try putting in a 2 cubic foot sealed box and putting them in the corner of your room.
Or even better, cut a couple holes in a closet door and use the closet as an enclosure.
Or put them in a W-baffle free air enclosure....
My woodworking skills are amatuer but a box is simple to build. I'm not really limited that much but two dimensions are want to stay are around 13 by 13 width and depth. But height is not an issue. My original plan was to make them look almost like a small corner table with storage. Also if I can incorporate 2 subs in one box to make things simpler or easier to work with that'll be great as well. But if your idea is more home theater suited or closer to then lay it on me. When you say 100 liters you mean squared right? So that would be 3.5 cubic feet per sub?
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If we assume the smaller one at 60L, assuming a 2cm (3/4") wall thickness. It would be 13x13x30" roughly. Maybe 1-2" taller to allow for internal wall and vents.
Its hard to get good even room bass with 1 subwoofer. The room interaction allows LF standing wave peaks and nulls that are easier to fix with 2 subwoofers.
You said these are surplus subs you already had, correct? Do you have other stuff like surplus amplifier or is there still alot of stuff to buy?
So two subs two boxes two different areas at a room right? And I do know of evening out bass in a room over multiple subs in a room setup. So hear me out because I am a crazy DIYer if you can already tell LOL. But I do have a amplifier it is a car amp as well but it is sufficiently powered with a server power supply converted as output for it. I know I'm hard to work with. But sometime in the future I was thinking about getting a crown audio app for home use. If you're familiar with those amps. By the way what program are you using to get those graphs and or simulations. And what's the difference between doing the 100l vs the 60l
The program is free at Hornresp and its written by David McBean who hangs out at DIYaudio at Hornresp .
Just to be clear, I'm assuming you are trying to reuse your existing subwoofers, and this is a "silk from sow's ear" project. If you have not purchased sub drivers, you should consider other drivers that much better suited for HT subs. Then you could get a flatter and wider response.
The 60L enclosure goes down to 35Hz, and the 100L enclosure goes down to 30Hz. I think 60L would be enough.
What car amp model do you have, and will it drive a 3 ohm load?
Just to be clear, I'm assuming you are trying to reuse your existing subwoofers, and this is a "silk from sow's ear" project. If you have not purchased sub drivers, you should consider other drivers that much better suited for HT subs. Then you could get a flatter and wider response.
The 60L enclosure goes down to 35Hz, and the 100L enclosure goes down to 30Hz. I think 60L would be enough.
What car amp model do you have, and will it drive a 3 ohm load?
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I have the subwoofers already. I have a Planet Audio 1500.1 and it is stable down to 2 ohms. As well as the subs are 4 ohm. In the future what subwoofers specs do you prefer for home theater?
No problem, I often use what I have. It forces innovation. Everything is fair game if you can make it work.
Preferred HT sub should have lower Qts<0.5 and higher Xmax>=9mm . There are lots of subs that meet this criteria. They are better suited to ported boxes and allow more linear travel (less distortion). Have a look at my BP6 using DCS305 (budget sub) SonoTube and SewerPipe BP6 Subwoofer and notice its flatter, wider and lower freq with similar 60L . That link has the design prediction and measurements.
HornResp is fairly easy to use, and you can adjust the design type, swap drivers, and get a pretty good idea of how your system will perform before any cash is spent.
In addition to your car amp, you will need LP filters that may (or not) be in your existing main HT amp. You will also need HP filters to prevent VLF and excessive woofer excursion as your Xmax=4.7mm is on the short side.
Preferred HT sub should have lower Qts<0.5 and higher Xmax>=9mm . There are lots of subs that meet this criteria. They are better suited to ported boxes and allow more linear travel (less distortion). Have a look at my BP6 using DCS305 (budget sub) SonoTube and SewerPipe BP6 Subwoofer and notice its flatter, wider and lower freq with similar 60L . That link has the design prediction and measurements.
HornResp is fairly easy to use, and you can adjust the design type, swap drivers, and get a pretty good idea of how your system will perform before any cash is spent.
In addition to your car amp, you will need LP filters that may (or not) be in your existing main HT amp. You will also need HP filters to prevent VLF and excessive woofer excursion as your Xmax=4.7mm is on the short side.
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