the trifold looks like a fun project,,,,the depth dimensions of it would not work where I would intend on having it,,,,,,,,so a couple more questions?????how adjustable are the dimensions of the designed enclosures? can a side be shortened along with adding length to another side while keeping internal volume?,,,or is it a bit more complex? the spot I would like it could be up to 47"high,,,16" wide,,,but only about 20" deep,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if size adjustment would be unfeasible,,,,,,,,,,how is room location a factor? side walls,back walls? I was blown away by the help so far,,,,,,,I am grateful.
Not possible without remodeling in HR. TH wise, the system will not play as low at 47"H x 16"H x 20"D. It will be alot louder in the 40-120hz range though!
thanks for the help. I am gonna order,,probably build a vented (with slotted port) as well as a sealed for now,,,decide which i like better,,,,,and then take my time to work out the more elaborate "fold" enclosure..I had thought that size/space would be more "doable" but my wife is giving me the crazy look when I explain my ideas,,,,I would be able to put the foldat the very rear of the room with no complaints, but would have to see how it sounds.
Not yet...
41.25" H x 14" W x 20" D
6.684 cubic feet = 189.27 liters (external dimensions)
Let's assume this is close to the max. volume allowed by you (/r wife ?) or WAF*.
If you can add a little more (35L = 1.2360ft³) for a total of 225L = ~8ft³
Volume for enclosure/wood thickness = 42L
Volume for 2x ports = 20L
1 Driver = 3L
Total = 65L
With external vol. 225L - 65L = 160L Internal volume
1. DAYTON UM12-22, VB = 160.0 L, FB = 20.0 Hz
Port size (2x ports)
Diam. 4"
Length 64.2cm = 25 9⁄32in
Air speed (2 speakers/3m@Xmax):
a) 16.4m/s - 100 dB,
b) 34.2m/s - 106.8dB (@max. output)
* Making your wife happy and going back to a new bass reflex alignment:
2. DAYTON UM12-22, VB = 135.0 L, FB = 20.0 Hz
Volume for enclosure/wood thickness = 42L
Volume for 1x ports = ~3 L
1 Driver = 3L
Total = 48L
48L + 135L Internal volume = 183L
External vol. 183L - OK. You have the space needed to fit the above dimensions.
(6.684 cubic feet = 189.27 liters external dimensions)
Port size (1x ports)
Diam. 4"
Length 14" (36.02cm = 14 3⁄16in)
Air speed (2 speakers/3m@Xmax and 1 port):
a) 11.7 m/s - 91.7 dB,
b) 68.3 m/s - 107.0 dB (with 1 speaker/1m@Xmax, considering 115.3 dB with thermal attenuation = 110.0 dB @max. output)
Making two 3" ports:
Lenght: 41.8cm = 16 29⁄64in ~16.5"
Air speed (2 speakers/3m@Xmax and 2 port):
a) 12.5 m/s - 93.3 dB,
b) 60.7 m/s - 107.0 dB (with 1 speaker/1m@Xmax, considering 115.3 dB with thermal attenuation = 110.0 dB @max. output)
Volume of the two ports = 3.901 L (~4L)
I consider the wood thickness 0.75 or 3/4" for calculations of volumes.
There are also other projects following probably different or similar alignments. You can test this with WinISD.
Dayton UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer
Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Co 295-512
Dayton Audio SWC3-VI 3.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-847
"Not expecting much advice here due to lack of interest from my original post"
getting much more help now than I ever expected! I appreciate all that have responded to my posts,,,I feel that I am getting a grasp on the knowledge. Being new to this, my first thought was to just do what is recommended on the PE product page,,,fearing that changes will lead to poor performance,,,I'm starting to understand(barely) how an enclosure can be adjusted to my needs while still allowing a driver to perform well.
6.684 cubic feet = 189.27 liters (external dimensions)
Let's assume this is close to the max. volume allowed by you (/r wife ?) or WAF*.
If you can add a little more (35L = 1.2360ft³) for a total of 225L = ~8ft³
Volume for enclosure/wood thickness = 42L
Volume for 2x ports = 20L
1 Driver = 3L
Total = 65L
With external vol. 225L - 65L = 160L Internal volume
1. DAYTON UM12-22, VB = 160.0 L, FB = 20.0 Hz
Port size (2x ports)
Diam. 4"
Length 64.2cm = 25 9⁄32in
Air speed (2 speakers/3m@Xmax):
a) 16.4m/s - 100 dB,
b) 34.2m/s - 106.8dB (@max. output)
I attempted to put these into bassbox,,,although I am quite the rookie at using the software. Image:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/ultimax.JPG
getting much more help now than I ever expected! I appreciate all that have responded to my posts,,,I feel that I am getting a grasp on the knowledge. Being new to this, my first thought was to just do what is recommended on the PE product page,,,fearing that changes will lead to poor performance,,,I'm starting to understand(barely) how an enclosure can be adjusted to my needs while still allowing a driver to perform well.
6.684 cubic feet = 189.27 liters (external dimensions)
Let's assume this is close to the max. volume allowed by you (/r wife ?) or WAF*.
If you can add a little more (35L = 1.2360ft³) for a total of 225L = ~8ft³
Volume for enclosure/wood thickness = 42L
Volume for 2x ports = 20L
1 Driver = 3L
Total = 65L
With external vol. 225L - 65L = 160L Internal volume
1. DAYTON UM12-22, VB = 160.0 L, FB = 20.0 Hz
Port size (2x ports)
Diam. 4"
Length 64.2cm = 25 9⁄32in
Air speed (2 speakers/3m@Xmax):
a) 16.4m/s - 100 dB,
b) 34.2m/s - 106.8dB (@max. output)
I attempted to put these into bassbox,,,although I am quite the rookie at using the software. Image:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/ultimax.JPG
When it doesn't because it's to small (enclosure) or F3 is very high for a larger one (low frequency extension) it's time to change driver. Each driver has it's own limits of enclosure volume and it's adequate for only one or two types of system (BR, sealed, TL, horn, OB).
After all discussed,,I am going to build the 4.0 cubic foot box(net) with the slotted port(1.5"x10"x25"). I will most likely build a sealed at some point in time as well. I think the slotted port will be fun to construct and will be good learning for leading up to more complex enclosures in the future. I worked out all of my internal displaements and ran them in bass box pro(can't get winisd to work,,always get an error message and then force close?) I also gave google sketch up a try and have a visual of what I am building. My driver arrived yesterday and I will order amp soon. I have decide to mount amp externally (somewhere). here are the drop box links to the sketch up and model.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/bass box 1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/box.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/brace.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/center brace.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box 2.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box 3.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/bass box 1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/box.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/brace.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/center brace.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box 2.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49501962/sub enclosure final/sketch box 3.JPG
The 4 cubes ported box should be very effective. I would double check the port area vs. port air velocity in WinISD and make sure it's not maxing out too far above 25 m/s, consider increasing the port area and length. That size slot port is equivalent to 4" or so diameter tube, which may be a bit on the small side for a 19mm xmax 12" driver. You can put a 90 deg turn in the port.
You're definitely going to have audible chuffing during a 20 or 25 hz test tone at medium to high output, and port compression limiting sensitivity in the low bass. Flares will help. You can increase the size of the port, but you will lose box volume if you have already sized the outer panels. Or you can just not worry about it, it will probably be OK-ish.
http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flare-testing.htm
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/233516-port-area-vs-efficiency.html
http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flare-testing.htm
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/233516-port-area-vs-efficiency.html
Just go with what you have if it is too late to change, but I would rough it out and test it before finishing just to make sure you're happy with the performance.
Hi Rock!! looking at your room which isn't massive but a good size plus the fact just like myself its your first diy sub build imo i would have gone with a x2 dual 110l "sealed" cabs with a good quality 15" driver in each enclosure plus the behringer nu3000dsp to power them.This is more or less what i am building atm but with quite cheap drivers witch are the audiobahn aw1500v's ......if your were to use the dayton 15" drivers or better you will be blown away with what you hear!!
i mean 10hz at over 90db aint to shabby and a 108db at 20hz aint to be scoft at either plus you don'r have to work at NASA to do a great job.....a few pic of my progress
P.S YOU GUYS OVER IN THE US ARE SO LUCKY AS YOU GOT ALL THE BEST DRIVERS.....WE GOT NOTHING IN THE UK!!.........SO IT COSTS ££££££££££££££'S
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I agree with you. Hope the OP understands your and others opinions (on the Vb = 235 vs. 113L options) and EQ of the final system with the effect of the higher Qt.FYI...
b
Not "NOTHING"?!
You have mail and Amazon and you have good manufacturers from UK (Volt) and Europe (AudioTechnology/DK and Beyma/Spain, B&C, 18Sound/Italy, Focal/France and Germany), they don't have. I agree with you it's more expensive some times if you import from overseas. This not true also, if you look Canada and USA (from UK) has cheaper mail than inside the UK, from the UK. To Europe is also more expensive than sending it to China or Hong Kong/Asia. Taxes are a different business and all countries have very high taxes and customs now if not charging a lot in mail and transports already. You can't have your cake and eat it too.
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