Yup...a HPF at 30 hz doesn't mean that the response starts to get rolled off below 30Hz, it starts happening well above 30Hz for filters with typical slope.
I'm not saying this is the solution to you wanting "chest pounding" bass, but what I am saying is that the combination of tuning frequency and HPF frequency isn't the smartest choice here.
I'm not saying this is the solution to you wanting "chest pounding" bass, but what I am saying is that the combination of tuning frequency and HPF frequency isn't the smartest choice here.
Makes sense to me. Damn..
Any remedy you can think of? Increase box frequency, turn off hpf (or is that a big no no), external hpf
I don't need chest pounding, it's just what I expected comparing to what my little BIC 12" put out. As it sits right now, something just seems off... it's hard to describe. It seems generally empty/flat with many songs.
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Your box is already down around 9 dB at 30 Hz, you need a much bigger box to get it flat to Fs. 9 dB is a big difference, 30 Hz sounds less than half as loud when 9 dB down.
A 24 dB Butterworth filter (likely what your amp uses, though the manual does not say) should only be 3 dB down at 30 Hz, and would have little effect at 33-34 Hz, your box Fb.
The filter is not the problem, and even if you had proper DSP, I'd suggest a 29 Hz 24 dB BW filter for use with that Fb, only 1 Hz lower.
Don't turn off the filter when you are playing loud, there is lots of content going down into the low 20s that could cause your speaker to bottom out or tear up the surround or spider.
Tuning the box higher will give you more "chest pound", but less low bass.
The real solution is a bigger box, and if you want around another 6 dB over a bigger BR box, make it a tapped horn.
Art
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Got it. Also makes sense. Thanks art. Well that being said... is there an 18" that would model well in this 5.5 cube box you'd recommend? Or anything that would work in 5.5 cubes for a big party sub (I can even retrofit two 12"s/15"s..)
I can still return this driver, yet I don't want to lose/rebuild the box right now.. unless I'm out of luck and have to.
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Check out the Dayton Reference HO 15" I'm talking about in the other thread I've got going right now. You could either use one and go really low with good output, or 2x and somewhat low with massive output.
Damn... I have an RSS390HF-4 that I still have to return. If only it was the HO. The HF seems to need a massive box...
I didn't know the difference either until I started looking into them recently. The HO seems quite rugged and capable of high output in small boxes, with very good quality, and good value. They model very different.
Though now that you mention it, you may want to try the HF in your current box, it could turn out well. Model it and see.
Yeah the HO seems nice.. I'll look into using this HF.
I'm not sure what everyone is using to model, WINisd's database is so old, I can barely find anything. Aside from manually entering each driver I want to test.
Just cut a board and put it over the exisitng baffle to try out the HF. Model it first. Then possibly return it?
You may be able to fit 2 15's going diag across the front if you replace the baffle and remove the slot port, go to tube ports.
Some comments on tube vs slot ports:
Vent Length WinISD - Speakerplans.com Forums
The slot port is not easily removable... could I place a 15" in the front spot, then a 15" in the rear? Or would that cause some type of cancellation or sound wave issues within.
I see....front and back should be ok, but I have no experience with bi-pole subs. Might be kind of hard to corner load properly.
I'll have to look into it. For now I'll wait out until tomorrow and try this signal booster. See what happens. If no luck, the only thing left is swapping out the driver. I don't even need it that loud at 30hz, most music plays above that, and it's still quite weak.
I haven't messed with the bracing yet, but I will. The tune, I'm going to leave as is. Many are stating it's not worth it and charts showing the increase in spl/dbl is minimal, not worth trying to cut the shelf...
The HF is going to sound more aggressive than this LR18? That was the whole idea of the upgrade : ( man I messed up.
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You need to sim it, I don't know what the tune is with the HF and your current port dimensions.
A pair of Eminence Lab 12 or TC Epic 12 would work well in the 5.5 cube box with the 33.4 Hz tuning, though the port is a bit small.
The increased cone area and Xmax will give way more output, they will be flat to about 35 Hz.
Art
Question, can I put them back to back? As in one woofer retrofitted to the front spot, and cutting another hole in the rear of the enclosure?
(also, I have a precision tube port I can add, although I don't know if that's a problem running different ports..)
If going the two driver route, why not two 15"s? Or is the enclosure too small..
Adding a port would raise the tuning, not what you want.
Larger speakers in general need larger cabinets, I don't know of a pair of 15" that would have as much output in a 5.5 cube cabinet as the 12s.
From experience at a side by side outdoor show, I can tell you that 4 dual Lab 12 cabinets (Vb 5.885, Fb 36 Hz) driven by only 2 Crest CA9 put out 3 dB more at 40 Hz than 8 Meyers dual 18 650P cabinets running FTB.
The Lab 12s also have less upper response than the Low Rider 18, probably a good thing for you since you don't have DSP to deal with a rising upper response.
Putting one speaker on each side of the cabinet will cause no problem for home/party use. You could also do a plenum (slot load) and fit them both on the front, but that will reduce cabinet volume slightly.
I do not recommend push pull slot load with the Lab 12", the heat vent is too noisy, more objectionable than the even order harmonics it reduces.
I have not used the Dayton or TC Epic 12, so can't tell you anything about them other than they spec above the Lab 12.
Art
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