Kornylike.
I suggest you draw out the design on one of the side panels, and decide for yourself how to join the panels -People have differing joinery skills and equipment, so there is never a best way of setting out the panels. The right way is whatever is right for you. Some Like simple butts, some want mitres, some want rebates. These will all effect the panel sizes.
BTW I have landed a new contract this week, that's going to keep me busy for the next few months. 'Got to go make hay when the sun shines.
'Kornylike.
I suggest you draw out the design on one of the side panels, and decide for yourself how to join the panels -People have differing joinery skills and equipment, so there is never a best way of setting out the panels. The right way is whatever is right for you. Some Like simple butts, some want mitres, some want rebates. These will all effect the panel sizes.
BTW I have landed a new contract this week, that's going to keep me busy for the next few months. 'Got to go make hay when the sun shines.
Good to go
the post 5 box from the 30 hz topic is a 400 ltr cab.the tbx doesn't work that wel in it.
the post 466 is a 575ltr cab .it works in it but it could be better.
what about this design,its a bit wider but les deep also 575 ltr(stil needs some work thoug)
just noticed ,the le of the tbx is 1.6 mh
Epa
Look I just build for a friend.
Originally Posted by weltersys
The dbx RTA-M mic should be reasonably accurate in the range of the cabinet.
I have an RTA-420, IIRC has the same element, it measures a few dB less at 30 Hz than it should, compared to my B&K 4004 mics.
An SPL meter with better LF response will cost big $$.
Nice work on the cabinet, Kornylike!
The dbx RTA-M mic should be reasonably accurate in the range of the cabinet.
I have an RTA-420, IIRC has the same element, it measures a few dB less at 30 Hz than it should, compared to my B&K 4004 mics.
An SPL meter with better LF response will cost big $$.
Looks like the RTA 420 is about 1.8 dB less at 25 Hz than the B&K 4004.
Nice work on the cabinet, Kornylike!
looks like a solid bild.Epa
Look I just build for a friend.
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Hi kornnylike,
Did those boxes ever get finished? I never got around to building these. I finished my 2nd set of TH-18s instead. I'd still like a bit lower tuning (for a few tracks ), but I'm a bit hesitant to build these with my 18SW100 drivers as the fs is a little high (35Hz).
epa, have you fiddled with this cab any, to implement cone correction or to raise the efficiency (the 1st dip in the efficiency window)?
Cheers, all!
Did those boxes ever get finished? I never got around to building these. I finished my 2nd set of TH-18s instead. I'd still like a bit lower tuning (for a few tracks
), but I'm a bit hesitant to build these with my 18SW100 drivers as the fs is a little high (35Hz).epa, have you fiddled with this cab any, to implement cone correction or to raise the efficiency (the 1st dip in the efficiency window)?
Cheers, all!
Hi kornnylike,
Did those boxes ever get finished? I never got around to building these. I finished my 2nd set of TH-18s instead. I'd still like a bit lower tuning (for a few tracks
epa, have you fiddled with this cab any, to implement cone correction or to raise the efficiency (the 1st dip in the efficiency window)?
Cheers, all!
Crescendo
No I did not build any I am taking a different route. I am just waiting for the green light. Secret Mission
found the drawing.
some notes
the box needs to be placed flat on the floor,preferably a stack of 2.
ive recalculated the path length .
with the knowlidge now i would say s4-s5 wil be 10 cm shorter.
total path of 308cm.
i would make s3 bigger to get a litle rize at the low end(wich wil be flat(ter) when measured afterwards)
i would do away with the corner pieces ,make panel 3 straight to the front.
i think its a usable fold .it just needs a litle adjustments for the sw100.
some notes
the box needs to be placed flat on the floor,preferably a stack of 2.
ive recalculated the path length .
with the knowlidge now i would say s4-s5 wil be 10 cm shorter.
total path of 308cm.
i would make s3 bigger to get a litle rize at the low end(wich wil be flat(ter) when measured afterwards)
i would do away with the corner pieces ,make panel 3 straight to the front.
i think its a usable fold .it just needs a litle adjustments for the sw100.
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