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Old 2nd August 2011, 03:47 AM   #1051
Djim is offline Djim  Netherlands
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And check the classic RCF L15P200AK with its stronger motor, slightly lighter cone (still strong), lower Fs (38Hz).... After more then 25 years and its 5th generation, still a good driver.

Last edited by Djim; 2nd August 2011 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 2nd August 2011, 03:57 AM   #1052
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Has anyone actually built one of these using the Kappa Pro 3015 or 3015LF? They appear very similar save for the use of a much cheaper ferrous magnet. There's some reasonably priced woofers from Dayton and Selenium that may also be of use.
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Last edited by Spasticteapot; 2nd August 2011 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 2nd August 2011, 05:00 AM   #1053
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Here's my attempt at substituting the Dayton driver; this is my first HornResp simulation, so please feel free to check my work. Given the $85 pricetag, it seems to offer good value for money.
Attached Images
File Type: png Hornresp!.png (87.4 KB, 577 views)
File Type: jpg Dayton_PA380_8.jpg (52.4 KB, 580 views)
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Old 2nd August 2011, 05:19 AM   #1054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spasticteapot View Post
That link doesn't work, but I managed to find it after sifting through the thread for the appropriate post ID.

This looks to be a rather elegant design - the flat surfaces look quite easy to build, and 130dB from a single $65 driver is pretty impressive. I'm curious about the D220TI, though; I'm a bit fuzzy on the math, but a D220ti doesn't seem to have the required output to match the midrange and woofer with a 1.9khz crossover point. Maybe I'm missing something?
As far as I can tell, 130 dB is achieved using 4 of these cabinets. The line for the single cabinet is fainter and may be harder to see on some old lcd screens ( I speak from experience).

Regards, Ben
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Old 2nd August 2011, 05:41 AM   #1055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salzburgsoundsystem View Post
As far as I can tell, 130 dB is achieved using 4 of these cabinets. The line for the single cabinet is fainter and may be harder to see on some old lcd screens ( I speak from experience).

Regards, Ben
I have a fairly recent LCD monitor - maybe I did not calibrate it correctly? Time to go find the gamma controls....

In any case, I'm not too worried about max SPL; to be honest, I doubt I'll even need the second. 120dB down to 50hz for about $110 including plywood is pretty bonkers.
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Old 2nd August 2011, 06:57 AM   #1056
djk is offline djk
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"but I don't see a diameter for the driver cutout. "

The data sheet for the driver says:

Baffle Hole Diameter 10.95", 278.1mm
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Old 3rd August 2011, 06:04 AM   #1057
FlipC is offline FlipC  United States
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WOW
ALLOT has gone on in this thread as of late.

fhperez - sorry I thought I had answered that question before.
No those are not DIY.
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Old 5th August 2011, 02:00 AM   #1058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djk View Post
"but I don't see a diameter for the driver cutout. "

The data sheet for the driver says:

Baffle Hole Diameter 10.95", 278.1mm
I just wondered, since it is rear mounted on the baffle and a horn, if the cutout was reduced at all.
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Old 5th August 2011, 04:10 AM   #1059
djk is offline djk
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The hole in the baffle is for cone clearance, the horn throat is much smaller.

Here is another way to do it (Peavey FH1):

Click the image to open in full size.

The motorboard has a rabbet around the perimeter to keep the cone from slapping during high excursion, the throat opening is in the center.

I sometimes add an extra gasket too, depends on the x-max of the driver.
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Old 12th August 2011, 12:56 PM   #1060
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Default Howdie Horniez :)

I got a moment from my "Red Dawn" type lifestyle to pop in.
I'm freeing up two 3015lf for J bells Mini's or something like it.
Since the PA will probably stay in Florida I'm taking my electric drum rig to the next level so it can double as a karaoke or small band system.
Any notes on the mini's would be appreciated and a question after the update.

Update. I've lost track of how long it's been but the 6 furysubs are still cranking 5 nights a week. Not one blown driver as yet but one defective braid that had to be resoldered. I don't know if the compression I added to the box has made the difference or not, but they are certainly much more durable than the NEXO type subs. The clubs jukebox sometimes goes from rock and dance to that god awfull "My life will always suck so I'll go kill somebody" ghetto rap. Sometimes I just let it rip to annoy the people instead of dropping the bass. It will give you a headache or make you sick before the song is half done.
I'd venture to say that tapped horns are like Mesa Rectifiers because they "Bloom" as they get louder.

Given the longevity of the furysubs, which were inspired by Jbells original big beasts, and are similar to the JB mini: I'm wondering if adding some compression by using a smaller throat opening would be helpfull to the Mini.
I would do it by adding the extra 1/2 inch or so to the bottom of the cabinet and simply adding another sheet below. Exactly the way djk has shown on the peavey pic above. This is how the fury subs were done.

Anybody in Denver and points near there..... Give me a shout cuz that's where I'm Heading.
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