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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sweden
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Hi!
I have this circuit in my new project. I’s plays nice but I need some ideas to keep the dc offset at 0V. The problem is biggest when I start it up, DC power on and then the dc offset is about -2V. After a wile when the circuit is warm then it’s down to 0,2V. Please give me some god ideas. See picture... Ola A. |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
Have you tried shorting the input to see what effect this has on cold and hot offset? What components and values have you used?
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sweden
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What result can I see if I do that?
I have a 2n5566 N-fet input side. BC560 as VAS and BD139 as Output. Thanks |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SiliconValley
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For differential input amps without a servo the feedback input is often:
1) tied into a variable resistor between +V and -V to sum in a warm-mode output null-offset voltage. This compensates for the imperfect matching between components 2) a large cap is placed in series with the feeback resistor to ground... typically 470uF paralled with 100pF for high freq rejection. this allows only AC feedback Take a look at the Krell KSA100 or SysSym amp threads for examples. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: near london
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Hi
If you add all the current sources to your per amp then your circuit is not all that different from the one that I normally use. The main difference is that I use LM394, a dual transistor, for the input diffrential pair. I agree with the replies you have received to date. However I have been able to avoid using a capacitor in the feedback by adjusting the values of the resistors. It does take some time however. I also found that the current source of the diferential pair was critical. Possibly this is your problem area. It helps if that supplies a constant current as the temperature varies. I also found that fastening all the transistors to a common heatsink helped. Heatsinking the input pair and the current supply to the differential pair on one heatsink made the bigest difference. ( Most of my circuits use p to p wiring so I simply aligne the transistors that I want to heatsink.) Just my findings but I hope this helps. Don |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
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i think the answer to this question will depend on what your current sources are? if they are just resistors i am not surprised at your results.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sweden
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If I was using resistors then I had used that in the schematic.
I have really god ones with led as voltage fix. And npn transistors for the high output impedance… sources that every one today uses Thanks AMV8 I almost expected that solution. However the input N-fet are in the same substrate. Even if you put everything on a common heat sink how long time takes it to you get to the correct dc-offset? or do you play from the beginning with a high DC-offset. The speakers don’t have any problem with a couple V as long you playing music… |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Hi Ola
The biggest source of drift I think will be in the PNP VAS. Perhaps you could connect another PNP as a diode in series with the resistor going from the base to Vcc. Then as has been mentioned thermally connect these two together. Maybe this would help. Cheers John |
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