Hi Bob, i will of course let you know the progress with the amp once the deoxit gets here and i try to clean up the connections - in the meantime i got a can of a contact cleaner called SWA - it's supposed to be a general all purpose solvent cleaner designed to remove all types of dirt, grease and oil (quoting directly from the can!). It's non chlorinated and non residual but it doesn't seem to have any deoxidising properties - do you think it would be any good as a supplement to the caig deoxit? 
Hi,
I am not familiar with SWA, unfortunately, but I do know of SWC made by Electrolube. No surprises there, though, as there are hundreds of similar products, and I have about 10 on the go right now!
From what you say is on the can, I wouldn't expect that product to have any beneficial effect on your problem, since if it is caused by what I suspect, it really does need something to dissolve and remove oxidation.
However, to dilute the 100% Deoxit, I would guess it will be fine. Just try a bit together and see if the two products are miscible.
Be careful with any plastic parts when you use this SWA product, unless it advises that this is not a problem. Some such cleaners can dissolve, or mark, certain plastic components.
If you haven't finalised the order for Deoxit, I guess that just one small tube of the 100% would probably be quite sufficient for your present needs, as it does go very a long way. I thought you were already committed to two tubes, so I didn't make this comment earlier, but, since the outcome is still in the lap of the Gods, I wouldn't wish to encourage you waste money unneccessarily.
Don't forget that although we have found out generally what the problem is and that heat causes it to display (and roughly where it is located, perhaps), all along I have tried to suggest that the best way of solving any such problem, is to solder the parts.
It is just a chance that this Deoxit might work, and as I said (suitably diluted, if you only have the 100%) it is most likely to solve the scratchy volume control, and will clean up all other connectors etc.
In respect of the volume pot., it would have been preferable to use a squirt can, as the force of the spray will help its ingress into the parts, but it also 'creeps' in action, so you should still have some success with this, even if it takes longer. The benefit of spray cans is that (as I am sure I mentioned) you can 'flush' the parts more easily, but with what you will have to use, it should still work given a bit of time.
I do hope it works, and will keep my fingers crossed.
Regards,
I am not familiar with SWA, unfortunately, but I do know of SWC made by Electrolube. No surprises there, though, as there are hundreds of similar products, and I have about 10 on the go right now!
From what you say is on the can, I wouldn't expect that product to have any beneficial effect on your problem, since if it is caused by what I suspect, it really does need something to dissolve and remove oxidation.
However, to dilute the 100% Deoxit, I would guess it will be fine. Just try a bit together and see if the two products are miscible.
Be careful with any plastic parts when you use this SWA product, unless it advises that this is not a problem. Some such cleaners can dissolve, or mark, certain plastic components.
If you haven't finalised the order for Deoxit, I guess that just one small tube of the 100% would probably be quite sufficient for your present needs, as it does go very a long way. I thought you were already committed to two tubes, so I didn't make this comment earlier, but, since the outcome is still in the lap of the Gods, I wouldn't wish to encourage you waste money unneccessarily.
Don't forget that although we have found out generally what the problem is and that heat causes it to display (and roughly where it is located, perhaps), all along I have tried to suggest that the best way of solving any such problem, is to solder the parts.
It is just a chance that this Deoxit might work, and as I said (suitably diluted, if you only have the 100%) it is most likely to solve the scratchy volume control, and will clean up all other connectors etc.
In respect of the volume pot., it would have been preferable to use a squirt can, as the force of the spray will help its ingress into the parts, but it also 'creeps' in action, so you should still have some success with this, even if it takes longer. The benefit of spray cans is that (as I am sure I mentioned) you can 'flush' the parts more easily, but with what you will have to use, it should still work given a bit of time.
I do hope it works, and will keep my fingers crossed.
Regards,
Hi bob, yeah i appreciate that the deoxit is just a first step and i'll be lucky if it actually solves anything long term - the cost of shipping is the same whether ordering one or two tubes where the cost of the tubes isn't that much - it's the shipping that really bumps up the price so i reckon it's worth it in the long term to have some to spare esp if it can be used to do a general cleanup on the connections and keep the sound of the amp up to its potential - it should be here next week and i'll get back to you on any developments - cheers Bob!
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