Hey guys, I forgot to say - just before I broke my amp, I was experimenting with PSU bypass caps without much luck. When I rebuilt it, I ended up drilling the PCB and adding 100uF/100v BG FKs across the main smoothers. I've been running with these for a few weeks now and I'm really happy with this combination. The overall character is the same, but it sounds more detailed. There's none of the harshness I got from trying other caps. I'm tempted to try tagging some Mundorf Supremes across too now.
Hey Nuryev,
My smoothing caps are 80v 10,000uF Black Gates, which are out of production and very rare. If I didn't have those then I think I'd buy some 80V 22,000uF Mundorf M-Lytic HC from Parts Connexion.
I got the second transformer by cannibalising a faulty KI amp that I bought on eBay.
Ben
My smoothing caps are 80v 10,000uF Black Gates, which are out of production and very rare. If I didn't have those then I think I'd buy some 80V 22,000uF Mundorf M-Lytic HC from Parts Connexion.
I got the second transformer by cannibalising a faulty KI amp that I bought on eBay.
Ben
Hi Ben
Thanks for the reply. After looking around for ki tx and suitable caps I found 22000uf 63v Kendeil caps which appear highly rated. I have replaced most of the caps with Black Gates and was wondering would investing in the larger caps be worth the cost and effort without the transformer or until I source a KI transformer?
Would I have to change any other parts on the pcb if I go ahead with the cap upgrade?
Thanks for the reply. After looking around for ki tx and suitable caps I found 22000uf 63v Kendeil caps which appear highly rated. I have replaced most of the caps with Black Gates and was wondering would investing in the larger caps be worth the cost and effort without the transformer or until I source a KI transformer?
Would I have to change any other parts on the pcb if I go ahead with the cap upgrade?
No Roy, they'd just be a straight swap. Those Kendeil caps look nice - I'd say go for it.
I recommend getting some short lengths of good quality wire like Kimber 4TC. It's just the right gauge to fit through the existing PCB holes. I think the in-rush current should be OK at 22,000uF but you might want to pick up some spare fuses just in case.
I recommend getting some short lengths of good quality wire like Kimber 4TC. It's just the right gauge to fit through the existing PCB holes. I think the in-rush current should be OK at 22,000uF but you might want to pick up some spare fuses just in case.
Hiccup
Hi Ben
The Kendeil caps have arrived as have the brackets and the Kimber cable
.
After removing the original 50v Caps and cleaning the junk/glue off the board I accidently damaged a resistor (RN12). The part list describes the replacement as being 100K00 1% 0.4W resistor. I have a bag of spares from my cd mods and amp channel rebuild stock. The specific resistor i have on hand is Farnell (Element 14) Part no 337-419 Res 100K 1% 0.75w.
My question(s):
1) Is this part suitable to replace the original? And, if so..
2) Would I have to make any other component adjustments?
OR
the parts are really cheap..
3) Should I just place an order for some that is up to spec of the original resistor?
Thanks
Hi Ben
The Kendeil caps have arrived as have the brackets and the Kimber cable
.After removing the original 50v Caps and cleaning the junk/glue off the board I accidently damaged a resistor (RN12). The part list describes the replacement as being 100K00 1% 0.4W resistor. I have a bag of spares from my cd mods and amp channel rebuild stock. The specific resistor i have on hand is Farnell (Element 14) Part no 337-419 Res 100K 1% 0.75w.
My question(s):
1) Is this part suitable to replace the original? And, if so..
2) Would I have to make any other component adjustments?
OR
the parts are really cheap..
3) Should I just place an order for some that is up to spec of the original resistor?
Thanks
Hi Guys, posted in another thread a while back but had no luck!
I had the problem of the power LED coming on and no clunk, so I opened up my amp, replaced both the 47R that are known to go and also a 1.2k that looked very charred.
Now my amp turns on, does the "clunk" but still refuses to have any output.
Does anyone have the slightest idea what may be causing this? This is my first ever project and it's stumped me!
I had the problem of the power LED coming on and no clunk, so I opened up my amp, replaced both the 47R that are known to go and also a 1.2k that looked very charred.
Now my amp turns on, does the "clunk" but still refuses to have any output.
Does anyone have the slightest idea what may be causing this? This is my first ever project and it's stumped me!
r802
hi.im a total newbie, could somebody please post me the spec of the r802 resistor . im getting confused with watts ohms voltage etc!!!!! or mail me a direct link where to buy one ??? thanks. conker99@yahoo.co.uk
hi.im a total newbie, could somebody please post me the spec of the r802 resistor . im getting confused with watts ohms voltage etc!!!!! or mail me a direct link where to buy one ??? thanks. conker99@yahoo.co.uk
Hi and welcome to the forum.
There is something of a problem with finding a schematic on the web for this amplifier to be able to help. You have the part in front you and resistors have colour bands, which are a code for the resistance value and tolerance or some have it written in shorthand form like 120R or 1k2 which means 120 ohms and 1,200 ohms respectively, for example.
Assuming it is the value you want to know and not some exotic part brand you a5re trying to source, you could tell us what you read and send us a small, clear pic, attached to your post.
There is something of a problem with finding a schematic on the web for this amplifier to be able to help. You have the part in front you and resistors have colour bands, which are a code for the resistance value and tolerance or some have it written in shorthand form like 120R or 1k2 which means 120 ohms and 1,200 ohms respectively, for example.
Assuming it is the value you want to know and not some exotic part brand you a5re trying to source, you could tell us what you read and send us a small, clear pic, attached to your post.
r802
hi ian. thanks for your welcome and reply. i have taken a pic of the resistor,it is the left hand resistor of the couple in the middle. i think the bands are gold , black , purple , yellow . if you could cofirm its properties for me i would be very grateful. thanks.
hi ian. thanks for your welcome and reply. i have taken a pic of the resistor,it is the left hand resistor of the couple in the middle. i think the bands are gold , black , purple , yellow . if you could cofirm its properties for me i would be very grateful. thanks.
Attachments
r802
hi mooly.thanks again for your interest,i have a mate who is going to meter test and do the soldering if needed next friday,im just trying to get the bits i may need before hand, resistors are cheap so if its not that thats the problem its no loss financially,i jsu cant get my amp up and running quick enough !!!! i will look at r801 and r 803 also. thanks for your help.steve
hi mooly.thanks again for your interest,i have a mate who is going to meter test and do the soldering if needed next friday,im just trying to get the bits i may need before hand, resistors are cheap so if its not that thats the problem its no loss financially,i jsu cant get my amp up and running quick enough !!!! i will look at r801 and r 803 also. thanks for your help.steve
hi all
brilliant thread will be starting mods soon
has anybody replaced/upgraded the AN7062P input chip - different chip or possibly discrete solid state stage on seperate board or even valve stage !! you lot have replaced everything else just about - haha
trouble is now i really need a second ki tx
james
brilliant thread will be starting mods soon
has anybody replaced/upgraded the AN7062P input chip - different chip or possibly discrete solid state stage on seperate board or even valve stage !! you lot have replaced everything else just about - haha
trouble is now i really need a second ki tx
james
Just giving this a bump in case anyone is able to help. I'm still completely stumped.
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