Hello again,
I finally got my old amp up and running again and it's been treating me well for the last couple of months, but I just moved house recently and it's begun to play up again!
Basically, if i turn the amp above a certain volume, the speaker protection relay clicks into action and cuts all the sound, then will come back on within a couple of seconds. It sometimes clicks on and off repeatedly, but turning down the volume generally helps.
From looking around online, most people seem to be pointing towards something as simple as needing to clean the relay connections, but I was just wondering if anyone has had this issue before and if they managed to fix it with ease.
Thanks,
David
I finally got my old amp up and running again and it's been treating me well for the last couple of months, but I just moved house recently and it's begun to play up again!
Basically, if i turn the amp above a certain volume, the speaker protection relay clicks into action and cuts all the sound, then will come back on within a couple of seconds. It sometimes clicks on and off repeatedly, but turning down the volume generally helps.
From looking around online, most people seem to be pointing towards something as simple as needing to clean the relay connections, but I was just wondering if anyone has had this issue before and if they managed to fix it with ease.
Thanks,
David
Have you checked out for DC voltage at the amplifier output related to volume pot position? May be the speaker protection circuit is triggering for a reason.
In that case you'll have to trace the dc component origin being amplified.
As a side note, the relay coil is operated by the protection circuit, which is independent of the relay contacts condition.
In that case you'll have to trace the dc component origin being amplified.
As a side note, the relay coil is operated by the protection circuit, which is independent of the relay contacts condition.
Some ideas:
My other amp can donate the big capacitors so I can end with 12000x4
Is better for the bass ?
with the second transformer it doesn´t matter ??
Is this too much cap??
The s4vb20 bridge can supply 2.6 amp continuos without heatshink and 4 amp if I put one heatskink ( peak surge forward current, non-repetitive 1 cycle = 80amp)
Well I have got a metal big 35 amp bridge. I can put it near the two Transformer, in the chasis. I can put the two new capacitor (12000+12000) near the bridge, and left the original caps near the transistor...
what do you think ?
worth it ??
PD: sorry for my english
My other amp can donate the big capacitors so I can end with 12000x4
Is better for the bass ?
with the second transformer it doesn´t matter ??
Is this too much cap??
The s4vb20 bridge can supply 2.6 amp continuos without heatshink and 4 amp if I put one heatskink ( peak surge forward current, non-repetitive 1 cycle = 80amp)
Well I have got a metal big 35 amp bridge. I can put it near the two Transformer, in the chasis. I can put the two new capacitor (12000+12000) near the bridge, and left the original caps near the transistor...
what do you think ?
worth it ??
PD: sorry for my english
Last edited:
To answer the question about capacitance ... from the beginning of the 3D
Maybe this is too much. But 2 nice 47000 uF ...
Regards,
gino
Maybe this is too much. But 2 nice 47000 uF ...
Regards,
gino
Hi folks, has anyone thought about doing anything to improve the input selection switch?
I noticed the other day that I can hear cross-talk between inputs if I switch to phono while I have a CD playing. I was wondering if a relay-based input selector might be a better solution? I'm thinking I could keep the current switch connected so the dial still works, but repurpose it so that instead of switching an audio signal, it diverts power to the appropriate input relay.
Any thoughts?
Ben
I noticed the other day that I can hear cross-talk between inputs if I switch to phono while I have a CD playing. I was wondering if a relay-based input selector might be a better solution? I'm thinking I could keep the current switch connected so the dial still works, but repurpose it so that instead of switching an audio signal, it diverts power to the appropriate input relay.
Any thoughts?
Ben
Hi Ben
I'm not sure if you still have your kisig, if so, I have a question, what voltage do you have? I brought mine with me from the UK and I've never found a good transformer.
I've also got one channel out that I need to change, which km only going to try and fix if I can find a reasonable solution for the transformer.
Bevan
I'm not sure if you still have your kisig, if so, I have a question, what voltage do you have? I brought mine with me from the UK and I've never found a good transformer.
I've also got one channel out that I need to change, which km only going to try and fix if I can find a reasonable solution for the transformer.
Bevan
http://i12.pixs.ru/storage/7/0/4/00205a4dff_8160083_24572704.jpg
http://i12.pixs.ru/storage/6/8/8/002055d16e_8508887_24572688.jpg
Hello marantz lovers, this is my tweak for PM6010.
Capacitors was taken from ONKYO TX-SR875-I think looks very nice.
http://i12.pixs.ru/storage/6/8/8/002055d16e_8508887_24572688.jpg
Hello marantz lovers, this is my tweak for PM6010.
Capacitors was taken from ONKYO TX-SR875-I think looks very nice.
Hi guys,
My PM66KI has intermittent crackling on the right channel on all inputs, but caused by the input selector. The right channel crackles and cuts out but jiggling the input selector brings it back. It's worse on the little-used inputs. The CD input is mostly OK.
I can think of 3 solutions:
1) Clean the contacts of the switch (desolder & dismantle of switch required?)
2) Source a replacement switch (will I be able to get it? It was used in many different Marantz amps of that era)
3) Gamble on an ebay junker that uses the same switch (e.g., PM55)
4) Bypass the switch altogether and hard-wire one set of input jacks
Assuming that to clean the switch properly I'd have to desolder it (?) then putting a new one in would be better if I can get it. Are Marantz likely to be able to provide a part for a '90s amp?
As you know, the switch is not on the front panel, that knob is mechanically linked to the main switch which is on the same board as the input jacks.
Edit: By the way I've previously disconnected and bypassed the phono amp to turn it into another line-level input, but that one is the crackliest of them all as it was hardly ever used...
My PM66KI has intermittent crackling on the right channel on all inputs, but caused by the input selector. The right channel crackles and cuts out but jiggling the input selector brings it back. It's worse on the little-used inputs. The CD input is mostly OK.
I can think of 3 solutions:
1) Clean the contacts of the switch (desolder & dismantle of switch required?)
2) Source a replacement switch (will I be able to get it? It was used in many different Marantz amps of that era)
3) Gamble on an ebay junker that uses the same switch (e.g., PM55)
4) Bypass the switch altogether and hard-wire one set of input jacks
Assuming that to clean the switch properly I'd have to desolder it (?) then putting a new one in would be better if I can get it. Are Marantz likely to be able to provide a part for a '90s amp?
As you know, the switch is not on the front panel, that knob is mechanically linked to the main switch which is on the same board as the input jacks.
Edit: By the way I've previously disconnected and bypassed the phono amp to turn it into another line-level input, but that one is the crackliest of them all as it was hardly ever used...
Last edited:
Would I be able to do this without unsoldering it from the board and taking it apart? I.e., could I simply unclip the mechanical lever, squirt in some kind of contact cleaner and run the slider up and down quickly to 'clean' it, using something like this: Servisol Super 10 Switch Contact Cleaner 200ml | Maplin
Hi Glenn,
I'm not familiar with that product, but any cleaner you can get in to the contacts should work really well. I don't know how long that will last (keep the contacts clean), all you can do is try it. Try not to use excessive amounts of cleaner, and keep it away from electrolytic and trimmer capacitors. Many cleaners attack the rubber seal on electrolytic capacitors. Any fluid inside a trimmer capacitor means replacement and retuning of that part.
-Chris
I'm not familiar with that product, but any cleaner you can get in to the contacts should work really well. I don't know how long that will last (keep the contacts clean), all you can do is try it. Try not to use excessive amounts of cleaner, and keep it away from electrolytic and trimmer capacitors. Many cleaners attack the rubber seal on electrolytic capacitors. Any fluid inside a trimmer capacitor means replacement and retuning of that part.
-Chris
After reading scare stories of Servisol 10 attacking plastics, and reading a few Servisol vs Deoxit threads, I went for the Deoxit D5 option instead.
The switch has holes at each end so it was easy to squirt a little inside the switch and work it in by sliding the switch back and forth.
All 4 inputs now working perfectly!
The switch has holes at each end so it was easy to squirt a little inside the switch and work it in by sliding the switch back and forth.
All 4 inputs now working perfectly!
Hi Everyone,
The PM 66 KI mods topic is still alive.
Let me please share with You few modifications I did for this 20-years old stuff.
I followed Fidelity Audio with majority of suggestions and changes. Main are:
1.
additional trafo
note: dedicated rectifier bridges are kept (power lines are connected in parallel „after the bridge” - on the „DC side”). Bridges are on separate pcb.
2.
Main power transistors are now 2SA1943/2SC5200 (with idle current close to 150mA)
3.
Addtional small heatsinks for Q801 Q802
4.
Main caps: 22000uF/63V Mundorf M-Lytic
5.
Main board input caps: 100uF bipolar Mundorf
6.
Other caps replaced following Fidelity Audio guidelines (including 1% silver mica)
7.
Volume pot replaced with 50k Alps Blue (motorised)
The results are very good. It is definitely new life for this „old” amp.
Big thanks to Fidelity Audio for this thread He started (december 2005).
Regards/Marcin
The PM 66 KI mods topic is still alive.
Let me please share with You few modifications I did for this 20-years old stuff.
I followed Fidelity Audio with majority of suggestions and changes. Main are:
1.
additional trafo
note: dedicated rectifier bridges are kept (power lines are connected in parallel „after the bridge” - on the „DC side”). Bridges are on separate pcb.
2.
Main power transistors are now 2SA1943/2SC5200 (with idle current close to 150mA)
3.
Addtional small heatsinks for Q801 Q802
4.
Main caps: 22000uF/63V Mundorf M-Lytic
5.
Main board input caps: 100uF bipolar Mundorf
6.
Other caps replaced following Fidelity Audio guidelines (including 1% silver mica)
7.
Volume pot replaced with 50k Alps Blue (motorised)
The results are very good. It is definitely new life for this „old” amp.
Big thanks to Fidelity Audio for this thread He started (december 2005).
Regards/Marcin
Attachments
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.