My AX6 doesnt't have turn on thump. Neither did the predecessor ST120 PC15. 3300 uf provides great bass on these SP2-XT speakers. 4700 uf is only $.50 more expensive.
Manufacturers use wave soldering machines, which don't make one error, they make 500 at a time. Individuals make single errors. this is diyaudio. single soldering joint failure usually doesn't cause oscillation, bad design does. Not bypassing a 3300 uf capacitor with ceramic tends to inhibit ultrasound, anyway.
I have a huge collection of geriatric electrolytic capacitors from these 1964 to '68 organs. They mostly go high "resistance" and low capacity, causing poor lower frenquency passage and bad sound. Only one failed short, the one that was shifting mains AC phase to the sychronous motor.
The saying is, a $5 transistor will always blow to save a $1 fuse. I've seen the bond wires in a 2n3055, the wires in 10A fuses are bigger.
Besides, manufacturers want your speaker to burn to cinders with the amp. Planned obsolescence. Same reason they use 5 year life sealant in their cheapo electrolytic caps, so you'll be back on the market soon. **** HDTV converters last about 5 years before cap problems, remotes the same lifespan, this HDTV is getting fuzzy sound at 8 years now. I've seen a sanyo LED TV on the curb on garbage day, leaky caps inside and a blown fuse. I've worked on industrial motor drives with seriously sealed caps, 12 year life 24/7 at 150 F deg ambient is quite normal for AB or TB Woods drives.
I trust the protection circuit in my 1998 CS800s, with microprocessor, current sensor coils, serious disonnect relays that don't go open in five years. That is a $1000 amp, and I can't buy that quality relay on e-bay. A $3 cap per channel is so effective. The main problem with these 7 transistor amp designs is that the transistor gains have to be controlled to get the output centered at 1/2 the rail voltage. Or adjust some resistor values around the input transistor for the same effect. This is diyaudio IMHO. The OP has not passed the factory soldering training course. Neither have I, and I'm always having to work on the iron to keep the tip hot. DC out is a hazard on $600 speakers.
Manufacturers use wave soldering machines, which don't make one error, they make 500 at a time. Individuals make single errors. this is diyaudio. single soldering joint failure usually doesn't cause oscillation, bad design does. Not bypassing a 3300 uf capacitor with ceramic tends to inhibit ultrasound, anyway.
I have a huge collection of geriatric electrolytic capacitors from these 1964 to '68 organs. They mostly go high "resistance" and low capacity, causing poor lower frenquency passage and bad sound. Only one failed short, the one that was shifting mains AC phase to the sychronous motor.
The saying is, a $5 transistor will always blow to save a $1 fuse. I've seen the bond wires in a 2n3055, the wires in 10A fuses are bigger.
Besides, manufacturers want your speaker to burn to cinders with the amp. Planned obsolescence. Same reason they use 5 year life sealant in their cheapo electrolytic caps, so you'll be back on the market soon. **** HDTV converters last about 5 years before cap problems, remotes the same lifespan, this HDTV is getting fuzzy sound at 8 years now. I've seen a sanyo LED TV on the curb on garbage day, leaky caps inside and a blown fuse. I've worked on industrial motor drives with seriously sealed caps, 12 year life 24/7 at 150 F deg ambient is quite normal for AB or TB Woods drives.
I trust the protection circuit in my 1998 CS800s, with microprocessor, current sensor coils, serious disonnect relays that don't go open in five years. That is a $1000 amp, and I can't buy that quality relay on e-bay. A $3 cap per channel is so effective. The main problem with these 7 transistor amp designs is that the transistor gains have to be controlled to get the output centered at 1/2 the rail voltage. Or adjust some resistor values around the input transistor for the same effect. This is diyaudio IMHO. The OP has not passed the factory soldering training course. Neither have I, and I'm always having to work on the iron to keep the tip hot. DC out is a hazard on $600 speakers.