diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread - Page 27 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Solid State

Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 1st April 2013, 01:26 PM   #261
diyAudio Member
 
danielwritesbac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Default 300VA Power supply, Honey Badger Monobloc or Dualmono

Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFi Rookie View Post
Are you able to build an amp where you can choose to send 4, 6, or 8 to your speakers?
That's just transformer selection--choose enough voltage for the 8 ohm application, and insufficient current for output transistor/fuse breakage when 4 ohm speakers are connected.

This is convenient to do with monobloc/dualmono.
For Honey Badger, it is about 35+35vac 300va.

Then there's the matter of selecting a power supply that could be charged up full when the amplifier is pushing a 4 ohm speaker at the limits of the transformer, such as about 180 watts with our 300va transformer. There's no extra clearance for charging the supply. Adding a lot more capacitance, increases the load, delays the charge-up, and cuts both clarity and transient/dynamic power.

So, instead of that, we need something smaller, faster, and easily charged, to match that 300va transformer.

And what power supply recovers fast enough to get full, a split second after a bass beat, despite a maxed out 300va transformer? No problem. See attachment.
Attached Images
File Type: gif SpeedyRailKicker-by-Daniel.gif (56.4 KB, 566 views)
__________________
Tools, Models & Software for DIYClipNipper boostLM1875 TurboPowerful TDA7293 kitTDA7294 pt2pt ♦ My post has opinion.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2013, 04:39 PM   #262
Variac is offline Variac  United States
diyAudio Editor
 
Variac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
The Universal boards as chugging along. This time we wanted something REALLY universal and really good! Trouble is we were putting in so many features that they just don't all fit! So we've regrouped a bit and are now working on the final format. There's no doubt we'll stick with this one once we get the mounting holes to fit!

Last edited by Variac; 2nd April 2013 at 08:01 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2013, 05:28 PM   #263
bkevin is offline bkevin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Thumbs down Universal PSU

Quote:
Originally Posted by Variac View Post
The Universal boards as chugging along. This time we wanted something REALLY universal and really good! Trouble is we were putting in so many features that they just don't all fit! So we've regrouped a bit and are now working on the final format. There's no doubt we'll stick with this one once we get the mounting holes to fit!
Thanks but that really doesn't help me or other members who have been chasing availability of these boards for some time now.... I, for one really need to know when. "some time in the future" just doesn't cut it for me. Also, I (and I suspect many other people) have already ordered components to fit the current design and are just waiting for boards - so a design change potentially really throws a stick in the spokes....
So first of all - please provide an estimate for having either the new design or re-run of the current design available. I need to decide whether I make my own boards - something I'd prefer not to do...
Sorry to sound grumpy but i'm tired of not knowing how to proceed.
thanks

Last edited by Variac; 2nd April 2013 at 08:00 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 02:44 PM   #264
hotbulb is offline hotbulb  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
I've recently received my boards, very nice quality but can confirm that the CRZ jumpers and C18/C19 solder pads are lacquered over as supplied.
My build time will almost certainly be the slowest in history but then again I like to enjoy the process as much as the finished result.
For any other UK builders, which supplier did you use for the 0.22R 5 watt resistors? Are the ordinary green ceramic cased wire wound ones OK?
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 03:01 PM   #265
bkevin is offline bkevin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
I used these: 280-CR5-0.22-RC from Mouser. The body is a bit long (or hole spacing a bit small - take your pick) so you have to bend the leads back on themselves but it works OK
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 03:38 PM   #266
chunek is offline chunek  Singapore
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Singapore
Hi BKevin,
The PS I diy it based on universal ps. Running fine since last Nov
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
I only use 20kuf per rail. On board cap c13,17 using 400v 47uf and c1,10 using 250v 2.2uf to have faster response of bass. As for input cap find that 1.53uf (ie 4.7uf + (2.2uf//0.082uf)) has best response to my ear. Just my personal preferences.

James

Last edited by chunek; 2nd April 2013 at 03:43 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 03:55 PM   #267
chunek is offline chunek  Singapore
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Singapore
Sorry for the double post!
James
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 04:45 PM   #268
diyAudio Member
 
danielwritesbac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunek View Post
As for input cap find that 1.53uf (ie 4.7uf + (2.2uf//0.082uf)) has best response to my ear. Just my personal preferences.
You've got more options. One way to clear up the blurry bass is using a small size input cap. The other way is to first change both C3 and C4 to identical models of 220uF Panasonic FC. SO, in your case with 1.53uF input cap, you could then use 3.3uF input cap.

Bigger input cap = warmer/distortion
Smaller input cap = clearer/colder and less low pitches
Smaller NFB-shunt cap = warmer/distortion
Bigger NFB-shunt cap = clearer/colder and better quality lowest pitches
*The above adjusts bass harmonic balance, but if you want to adjust bass roll off then:
Bigger input cap+Bigger NFB-shunt cap = deeper

There's no wrong answer, but I think you should fine tune this to best fit your speakers and preferences.
The Honey Badger schematic shows 220.1uF series to 820R which is for maximum impact big loud boom suited to outdoor PA; However, for indoor or general purpose use, I suggest 440uF for clearer low pitches.
__________________
Tools, Models & Software for DIYClipNipper boostLM1875 TurboPowerful TDA7293 kitTDA7294 pt2pt ♦ My post has opinion.

Last edited by danielwritesbac; 2nd April 2013 at 04:58 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 07:49 PM   #269
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Default Re : Universal PSU

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkevin View Post
Thanks but that really doesn't help me or other members who have been chasing availability of these boards for some time now.... I, for one really need to know when. "some time in the future" just doesn't cut it for me. Also, I (and I suspect many other people) have already ordered components to fit the current design and are just waiting for boards - so a design change potentially really throws a stick in the spokes....
So first of all - please provide an estimate for having either the new design or re-run of the current design available. I need to decide whether I make my own boards - something I'd prefer not to do...
Sorry to sound grumpy but i'm tired of not knowing how to proceed.
thanks
Hi bkevin,

I am also not using PSU board.

I directly connect the decoupling cap, bridge diode and transformer by using AWG 14 wire. Cap is tied to the transformer with cable tie and diode is secured to the chasis.

By changing the current density ratio between ground and power rail to cap, you can also adjust the tonal balance of the sound. If all wire is AWG 14 solid wire, sound is very clean. If reducing the current density of power rail to AWG 16, sound is more vibrant although not that well focused.

With the default PSU board, you lost that option for tuning capability. The board layout already defines the current ratio between power and ground.

Just my experience.

Regards,
Lou
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 08:34 PM   #270
Variac is offline Variac  United States
diyAudio Editor
 
Variac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
We got lots of suggestions and demands on how we could greatly improve the PSU boards. Many of them were quite useful so we felt we needed to incorporate them, but it isn't easy because we're also trying to make them fit better in our chassis' where some new mounting points have been added so they're more versatile. Unfortunately it's a design process so unpredictable for both the boards and the chassis'. So far it's been really difficult and slow. We've had some recent breakthroughs, so we're optimistic, but don't think they'll be in the store for 2 months.

The new boards will accommodate bigger caps, but I can't think of any way that they wouldn't work just fine with any components that worked with the old boards.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bkevin View Post
Thanks but that really doesn't help me or other members who have been chasing availability of these boards for some time now.... I, for one really need to know when. "some time in the future" just doesn't cut it for me. Also, I (and I suspect many other people) have already ordered components to fit the current design and are just waiting for boards - so a design change potentially really throws a stick in the spokes....
So first of all - please provide an estimate for having either the new design or re-run of the current design available. I need to decide whether I make my own boards - something I'd prefer not to do...
Sorry to sound grumpy but i'm tired of not knowing how to proceed.
thanks
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger" Variac Solid State 1399 Today 12:27 AM
My LM3886 build thread CanAm Man Chip Amps 22 13th July 2012 07:48 AM
Ricci's dual B&C 21SW152 build thread. Josh Ricci Subwoofers 22 12th April 2010 09:39 PM
New Project Build Thread ryoung Multi-Way 5 19th April 2008 01:15 AM
Badger Badger Badger..... Mushroom !! 5th element Everything Else 15 20th September 2003 03:16 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:16 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2