Hi,
I finally finished my DAX-BOSOZ this week. It is a combination of Perpetual Technologies P1-A, P3-A with a X-BOSOZ output stage.
In the pic you can see the P1-A and P3-A on the right, the x-bosoz in the middle and the power supply for the P1/3-A on the left.
The power supply for the x-bosoz sits underneath the aluminium cover in the middle.
William
I finally finished my DAX-BOSOZ this week. It is a combination of Perpetual Technologies P1-A, P3-A with a X-BOSOZ output stage.
In the pic you can see the P1-A and P3-A on the right, the x-bosoz in the middle and the power supply for the P1/3-A on the left.
The power supply for the x-bosoz sits underneath the aluminium cover in the middle.
William
Attachments
these are the P3-A (top) and P1-A (underneath a sheet of copper). They are attached to the back (the P1-A is isolated) and to a piece of plexiglas.
I put 4 new pushbuttons on the front for the various modes and used some fibreoptics to get the light from the leds to the faceplate.
I put 4 new pushbuttons on the front for the various modes and used some fibreoptics to get the light from the leds to the faceplate.
Attachments
here a last pic of the front. On the right are the 4 pushbuttons and a row of 1mm holes for the fibre optics.
The front is 10mm aluminium, the sides and internals are 6mm and the bottom and top are 4mm aluminium.
With this one I now finally removed all opamps out of the signal path🙂
It sounds quite a lot better than the (modified) P1-A /P3-A combination. Changes are the same as when I changed from my OPA627 based preamp to a x-bosoz. It sound more natural throughout the range, somehow much faster, better (less thumpy) and deeper bass. Room information is also improved. This way listening to CD´s is slowly becoming acceptable😉
William
The front is 10mm aluminium, the sides and internals are 6mm and the bottom and top are 4mm aluminium.
With this one I now finally removed all opamps out of the signal path🙂
It sounds quite a lot better than the (modified) P1-A /P3-A combination. Changes are the same as when I changed from my OPA627 based preamp to a x-bosoz. It sound more natural throughout the range, somehow much faster, better (less thumpy) and deeper bass. Room information is also improved. This way listening to CD´s is slowly becoming acceptable😉
William
Attachments
thanks for the nice comments!
Hugo,
the netfilter is only for the P1/3-A but is still not functioning as I would like. Something in the P3-A is causing my A5 to hum (mechanically) although both are on my balanced ac supply.
Will have to do something about this.
Here´s another pic of the little nobs. Drilling the 1mm holes wasn´t fun. I tried to drill through the complete 10mm faceplate but gave up after two drills broke (and got stuck). I then machined a 7mm deep slot in the back and put a piece of plexiglas in in to position the fibreoptics.
As always the mechanical part was a lot more work than the soldering🙄
William
Hugo,
the netfilter is only for the P1/3-A but is still not functioning as I would like. Something in the P3-A is causing my A5 to hum (mechanically) although both are on my balanced ac supply.
Will have to do something about this.
Here´s another pic of the little nobs. Drilling the 1mm holes wasn´t fun. I tried to drill through the complete 10mm faceplate but gave up after two drills broke (and got stuck). I then machined a 7mm deep slot in the back and put a piece of plexiglas in in to position the fibreoptics.
As always the mechanical part was a lot more work than the soldering🙄
William
Attachments
I like the case, but why do you have both the P1-A and the P3-A? If I Googled correctly these are both DACs, so enlighten me 
.
.
Hi Taco,
the P3-A is the DAC. The P1-A is a digital enhancer. Reclocks and "enhances". You can switch off the enhancment mode but usually it sounds better with it. The only thing it can´t stand is digital clipping. Then it starts making ticking and popping noises.
For more information see:
http://www.av123.com/products_category_brand.php?section=processors&brand=2
William
the P3-A is the DAC. The P1-A is a digital enhancer. Reclocks and "enhances". You can switch off the enhancment mode but usually it sounds better with it. The only thing it can´t stand is digital clipping. Then it starts making ticking and popping noises.
For more information see:
http://www.av123.com/products_category_brand.php?section=processors&brand=2
William
Hi William!
Real nice work
I have also made an ccs-x-bosoz outputstage on my CDP - it's just so much better than opamps.
Congratulation!
Best regards Henrik.
Real nice work
I have also made an ccs-x-bosoz outputstage on my CDP - it's just so much better than opamps.
Congratulation!
Best regards Henrik.
Hi,
after living for a while with the unregulated power supply for the x-bosoz output stage I finally managed to make a regulated one. It´s quite simple with just a few caps, zeners and IRF610/9619 like the standard bosoz.
The only thing I changed is that I doubled up the fets (just paralleled them) to have a sort of double mono configuration.
It works fine and puts out +44 and -23volts (the x-bosoz has a current source).
I wasn´t really expecting much of a difference soundwise but it turned out to be a worthwhile upgrade. Somehow the frequency extremes are a bit lifted and the sound is more clear (less romantic?). Placement of singers is also a bit better.
Here´s a picture.
William
after living for a while with the unregulated power supply for the x-bosoz output stage I finally managed to make a regulated one. It´s quite simple with just a few caps, zeners and IRF610/9619 like the standard bosoz.
The only thing I changed is that I doubled up the fets (just paralleled them) to have a sort of double mono configuration.
It works fine and puts out +44 and -23volts (the x-bosoz has a current source).
I wasn´t really expecting much of a difference soundwise but it turned out to be a worthwhile upgrade. Somehow the frequency extremes are a bit lifted and the sound is more clear (less romantic?). Placement of singers is also a bit better.
Here´s a picture.
William
Attachments
Nice
I really like that you did all this with hand soldering of components to perfboard. I am in the process of changing my hand made BOSOZ to a Kari-PCB based X-CCS-BOSOZ, and it just doesn't feel like DIY anymore with those nice looking pcbs.
I think after I deplete my supply of group buy boards for the next few projects, its going to be back to basics like what you have there.
Question- where are the big 10uf+++ output caps?
I really like that you did all this with hand soldering of components to perfboard. I am in the process of changing my hand made BOSOZ to a Kari-PCB based X-CCS-BOSOZ, and it just doesn't feel like DIY anymore with those nice looking pcbs.
I think after I deplete my supply of group buy boards for the next few projects, its going to be back to basics like what you have there.
Question- where are the big 10uf+++ output caps?
He great work William!
I, am working on an AVM vorstufe changing the NE5534 and all the caps to BBopa627 and elna silmic and panasonic FC for the powersupply. Is it better to invest on an aleph p, or something like that? My aleph 5 runs great, all music in my room.
Have fun Teake!
I, am working on an AVM vorstufe changing the NE5534 and all the caps to BBopa627 and elna silmic and panasonic FC for the powersupply. Is it better to invest on an aleph p, or something like that? My aleph 5 runs great, all music in my room.
Have fun Teake!
Hi master!
I shall obay! No kiddin! Thanks for your reply Nelson, first I will finish my AVM, than I will build me an aleph P and a pearl or ono, I don,t know right now wich one, what,s better?
Thanks again. and greetings Teake.
I shall obay! No kiddin! Thanks for your reply Nelson, first I will finish my AVM, than I will build me an aleph P and a pearl or ono, I don,t know right now wich one, what,s better?
Thanks again. and greetings Teake.
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