Finally after all of those anxious days of waiting for this to arrive, it is here!
The BPA300 Eagle File!
Stereo 300 watts* per channel using LM3886 Chips.
I will have Gerber files and PDF files soon!
*Note: If you give this amp enough power, it is possible to achieve 400 watts of amplification per channel. Not completely recommended, but if you know you can do this and you know you have the heat sinks to handle this, give it a shot - why not?
I would also like to thank Monster very much for putting a schematic and a picture of the boards he made on the internet for DIY hobbyists! You rock, Monster!
The BPA300 Eagle File!
Stereo 300 watts* per channel using LM3886 Chips.
I will have Gerber files and PDF files soon!
*Note: If you give this amp enough power, it is possible to achieve 400 watts of amplification per channel. Not completely recommended, but if you know you can do this and you know you have the heat sinks to handle this, give it a shot - why not?
I would also like to thank Monster very much for putting a schematic and a picture of the boards he made on the internet for DIY hobbyists! You rock, Monster!
BPA300 Files (http://www.the-diy-life.com mirror):
BRD:
http://www.the-diy-life.com/BPA300/BPA300_v2.brd.zip
Gerber:
http://www.the-diy-life.com/BPA300/BPA300_v2_gerber.zip
BRD:
http://www.the-diy-life.com/BPA300/BPA300_v2.brd.zip
Gerber:
http://www.the-diy-life.com/BPA300/BPA300_v2_gerber.zip
at quick glance can see it is not cheap to be fabbed given sq inch. haven't looked over circuit in detail. see that it's using 'phase spliiter' (drv134/ssm2142). i've have mixed results using balanced line drivers - not sure if missing something like a resistor or cap somewhere my own attempts but get a hiss using them. used non-inv opamp followed by inv opamp with better results myself.
It is big, I will say that, but it's 300-400 watts of power per channel, so it's going to be a big board one way or another.
Eagle's PS Printout (Anti-aliasized screen shot):
Click here for Full Sized Image!
Eagle's PS Printout (Anti-aliasized screen shot):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for Full Sized Image!
Banned
Joined 2002
So that's what, about 16" by 7"? And you want 5oz, 6oz, or more copper weight... I hope you have some good connections in the PCB manufacturing industry otherwise you'll be paying a lot to have that made! You'd be better off splitting that up into at least two boards. One board for the power/output section and one for the input section. A little layout tip - try to keep it as compact as possible without compromising other design criteria.
I saw Monster's BPA300 board and it's a lot smaller than your proposed board. His design is convenient because the same board is used for each half of the amp. I would suggest you "modularize" your design in the same manner.
If this were my project I would make one amplifier board consisting of 3 LM3886 chips and supporting components and use 4 of those boards. This will also allow you to maximize heat sink area by stacking the boards if you wanted to.
I would place the regulators and drivers/buffers on a separate board.
Breaking the project up into separate smaller boards would also allow you to reuse the "modules" in future projects if you wanted to. Not to mention it will be a LOT cheaper to have the smaller boards made in small quantities.
If this were my project I would make one amplifier board consisting of 3 LM3886 chips and supporting components and use 4 of those boards. This will also allow you to maximize heat sink area by stacking the boards if you wanted to.
I would place the regulators and drivers/buffers on a separate board.
Breaking the project up into separate smaller boards would also allow you to reuse the "modules" in future projects if you wanted to. Not to mention it will be a LOT cheaper to have the smaller boards made in small quantities.
IMPORTANT
Here is the alternative silkscreen Gerber file!
MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THIS IF YOU HAVE OR WILL DOWNLOAD ANYTHING ELSE RELATING TO THIS PROJECT
Just to let everyone know, this is a much more basic silkscreen and does not contain the names or values. This is because the names and values are a hassle to have to organize and/or rename if they were copied with the arrayboard ulp in Eagle. For those who decide they want to use this silkscreen, you will need to know which pieces go where by referring to the Eagle file and/or a PDF explanation of the layout that I will make soon.
For Mac OS X users that want to view gerber files, get Cenon. It can open Gerber RS274X format IF the file extension/suffix is ".gerber".
Hope all of this solves some problems.
Here is the alternative silkscreen Gerber file!
MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THIS IF YOU HAVE OR WILL DOWNLOAD ANYTHING ELSE RELATING TO THIS PROJECT Just to let everyone know, this is a much more basic silkscreen and does not contain the names or values. This is because the names and values are a hassle to have to organize and/or rename if they were copied with the arrayboard ulp in Eagle. For those who decide they want to use this silkscreen, you will need to know which pieces go where by referring to the Eagle file and/or a PDF explanation of the layout that I will make soon.
For Mac OS X users that want to view gerber files, get Cenon. It can open Gerber RS274X format IF the file extension/suffix is ".gerber".
Hope all of this solves some problems.
DJ Exprice said:Unfortunately, I have yet to build this. I really need to find some of those DRV134s. Trying to get those in the US is like trying to pull a gold bullion out of a pot hole.
Try Digi-key or just get samples from TI. I've got 4 sitting at home waiting to go into my BPA-300 and hybrid tube amp.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.