Hello
I have been doing a few searchs for a nice lamp for my projector and today i found sylvania BriteArc lamps. Anyone ever tryed this? Anyone knows something about this lamps?
This lamps looks goods and one guy from a lamp factory told me that this lamps are much better than HQI.
" It has an arc gap a third of the length of HQI so focusses much more light on the screen, it has a slim single ended design making the optics much easier, and a high colour temperature like UHP which is stable through life. It is a professional lamp that is sold for moving head image projectors found in discos and stage lighting.(...)We make them here from 150W up to 12,000W ratings. They sell for between about €75 and €4000 a lamp, and run on a standard sodium lamp ballast, same as HQI.
"
I found this info about this lamp:
http://www.interflux.pl/wwwpages/products/lampy_uv/sylvania/sylvaniabritearc.html
I have been doing a few searchs for a nice lamp for my projector and today i found sylvania BriteArc lamps. Anyone ever tryed this? Anyone knows something about this lamps?
This lamps looks goods and one guy from a lamp factory told me that this lamps are much better than HQI.
" It has an arc gap a third of the length of HQI so focusses much more light on the screen, it has a slim single ended design making the optics much easier, and a high colour temperature like UHP which is stable through life. It is a professional lamp that is sold for moving head image projectors found in discos and stage lighting.(...)We make them here from 150W up to 12,000W ratings. They sell for between about €75 and €4000 a lamp, and run on a standard sodium lamp ballast, same as HQI.
"
I found this info about this lamp:
http://www.interflux.pl/wwwpages/products/lampy_uv/sylvania/sylvaniabritearc.html
trev and this lamps are better than HQI?
i'm asking this still related with my UHP bulp.. as i said i talked with one guy from a lamp factory about how to power up my UHP lamp, he gave me some help and stuff but as this seems to complicated and envolving so much voltage i asked about the HQI lamps.. and he said what i posted before and talked about this lamp. he wanted to trade my uhp for this bulb.. i assume my uhp and the light board has a higher value but well.. i was thinking about this...
I'm confused about this lamp things.. i wanted something easy to mount, small and cold
i'm asking this still related with my UHP bulp.. as i said i talked with one guy from a lamp factory about how to power up my UHP lamp, he gave me some help and stuff but as this seems to complicated and envolving so much voltage i asked about the HQI lamps.. and he said what i posted before and talked about this lamp. he wanted to trade my uhp for this bulb.. i assume my uhp and the light board has a higher value but well.. i was thinking about this...
I'm confused about this lamp things.. i wanted something easy to mount, small and cold
These are the CDM-T type bulbs they are referring to:
This is the Phillips bulb
The GE bulb is listed here Look down on page 4 at the CMH150 bulbs.
The odd thing on the Phillips spec is on the above page they are rated at 9000hrs, but if you then click the link for the tech data sheet they do list them as 6000hrs as IEF mentioned.
This is the Phillips bulb
The GE bulb is listed here Look down on page 4 at the CMH150 bulbs.
The odd thing on the Phillips spec is on the above page they are rated at 9000hrs, but if you then click the link for the tech data sheet they do list them as 6000hrs as IEF mentioned.
I dont blame you,
The GE has good specs but is a dud @ 200 hrs. The philips is ok but they cant make up their mind on the cri 96 and "up to 92" listed on the same page! (Who pays these guys?)
If you want a GE, the Arcstream 250W is the way to go. 10,000hrs 90CRI 6,000K 19000 lumens T15 which works well in an elliptical reflector.
The GE has good specs but is a dud @ 200 hrs. The philips is ok but they cant make up their mind on the cri 96 and "up to 92" listed on the same page! (Who pays these guys?)
If you want a GE, the Arcstream 250W is the way to go. 10,000hrs 90CRI 6,000K 19000 lumens T15 which works well in an elliptical reflector.
ok i'm lost... 
I don't know what to get. And you guys already talked about so much lamps that i don't understand anymore
I asked about the BriteArc lamps because one guy was offering me this lamp in trade of my UHP. i know UHP is better but i can't power it up
If's they are not worth what would be a decent/cheap/cold/small light set to use with my 5" projector? It's for use with a 5" but something that i can use lately with a 7" projector that i'm planing to upgrade after do this one well.
Please help me
I don't know what to get. And you guys already talked about so much lamps that i don't understand anymore
I asked about the BriteArc lamps because one guy was offering me this lamp in trade of my UHP. i know UHP is better but i can't power it up
If's they are not worth what would be a decent/cheap/cold/small light set to use with my 5" projector? It's for use with a 5" but something that i can use lately with a 7" projector that i'm planing to upgrade after do this one well.
Please help me
That lamp you indicated is a probe start from what I gather (it states it uses HPS ballasts) and 'technically' uses another ballast. I have seen people stating they can use probe start bulbs with pulse start ballasts. I've not done it myself nor am I recommending it - just telling you what I've read.
Well wheather its a kick start, pulse start, fart start, heart start or wheel start there are 2 things thats more overly important, and thats the voltage and current.
In the link below there are the specs for various bulbs. Your ballast, and ignitor must match the voltage and amperage of your bulb. Failing this it simply wont start.
For an example its happend to me. I use a CMH 150w the amperage draw is 1.8amps and the voltage is 95v, my ballast has exactly this. I went to try a CDM-T 150w on this ballast that has the specs of 1.8amps and 90v. No go, it didnt run.
Metal halide bulbs are the most sensitive of the bunch when it comes to power and amperage. If your gear doesnt put out exactly what the bulb requires it simply wont fire as i soon found out from testing and later reading.
Alap, my advice to you is to buy a lamp kit, this will be the easiest thing for you. The bulbs IEF mentioned are also fine for your lcd and run reasonably cool.
The Osram bulb will not run on the gear for a CDM-T, or vise verser.
http://net2.alpha.net.nz/ATCO/Contr...69370002f796/20c52a21476b5216cc2569b3007e87ae!OpenDocument
Trev
In the link below there are the specs for various bulbs. Your ballast, and ignitor must match the voltage and amperage of your bulb. Failing this it simply wont start.
For an example its happend to me. I use a CMH 150w the amperage draw is 1.8amps and the voltage is 95v, my ballast has exactly this. I went to try a CDM-T 150w on this ballast that has the specs of 1.8amps and 90v. No go, it didnt run.
Metal halide bulbs are the most sensitive of the bunch when it comes to power and amperage. If your gear doesnt put out exactly what the bulb requires it simply wont fire as i soon found out from testing and later reading.
Alap, my advice to you is to buy a lamp kit, this will be the easiest thing for you. The bulbs IEF mentioned are also fine for your lcd and run reasonably cool.
The Osram bulb will not run on the gear for a CDM-T, or vise verser.
http://net2.alpha.net.nz/ATCO/Contr...69370002f796/20c52a21476b5216cc2569b3007e87ae!OpenDocument
Trev
Probe start lamps can be used on SOME HPS ballasts pulse start no. Probe start still have an ignitor, some are bult in to the bulb. The only difference between a pulse start and a probe start is that the probe start has an extra wire inside to help start the arc, normally coupled with a diode.
A pulse start ballast pulses itself from the ignitor to create a charge, normally 5k, probe start dont do this, they either use a totally different ignitor or the bulb has its own built in, (normally a resistor). The extra wire in the bulb helps start the lamp.
Trev
A pulse start ballast pulses itself from the ignitor to create a charge, normally 5k, probe start dont do this, they either use a totally different ignitor or the bulb has its own built in, (normally a resistor). The extra wire in the bulb helps start the lamp.
Trev
Yes, I wish I could use the nice Coralife S57 I have here from my old reef setup, but I guess I will just be stealing the enclosure.
Ace - while we're talking ballasts, have you ever used any of the F-CAN ballasts that are all enclosed like the flourescent ballasts? You can see some info here. I'm debating using that for the CDM-T 150.
Thanks!
Ace - while we're talking ballasts, have you ever used any of the F-CAN ballasts that are all enclosed like the flourescent ballasts? You can see some info here. I'm debating using that for the CDM-T 150.
Thanks!
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