Sylvania BriteArc lamp

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
ace3000_1 said:
Probe start still have an ignitor, some are bult in to the bulb. The only difference between a pulse start and a probe start is that the probe start has an extra wire inside to help start the arc, normally coupled with a diode.
Trev:)
Please correct me if I am wrong, but here is how I thought the two worked. A probe start bulb typically has a starter probe that is close to one of the bulbs operating electrode. Electrons jump from the starter probe to the close operating electrode, then across the arc tube to the far operating electrode creating the arc. The starter probe then drops out of operation, so in this sense, yes that 'ignites' the bulb. In effect the starter wire provides a very short arc to jumpstart the larger operating arc, but there is no ignitor coil that boosts voltage.

A pulse start bulb has a high voltage ignitor coil that is used to send high voltage pulses to the bulb to bridge the arc and start the bulb (like a coil and spark plug in a car).
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2003
but there is no ignitor coil that boosts voltage.

For a pulse start, (taken from text)

The starter produces about 2 to 5 kV spikes to ionize the gas in the lamp. The starter normally has a triac across the ballast and a diac trigger cct. When open cct voltage is across the lamp, the diac fires the triac to short the ballast, the triac then opens. This "kick" produces the voltage spike. Once the gas ionizes, the lamp impedance drops then gradually increases as the lamp warms up. The lamp running voltage is about 1/2 of the open cct voltage

With the lamp removed and power on, you can normally hear a good starter "ticking".

The open cct voltage is stamped on the ballast and is between about 150 and 350 Vac, depending on lamp wattage and ballast. Also, a capacitor is often connected in series with lamp to improve peaking and ballast action.

For Probe start your right, but its still a starter, just a diff kind (as i previsly said). No bulb will fire without some kind of starter.

Trev:)
 
:xeye: oops

quote:
The GE has good specs but is a dud @ 200 hrs


Ayyy?????? Try 12000hrs.

The best 250w to get is a 250w HQI-TSD

Trev
/Quote

Sorry, I think I was looking at the wrong one on the sheet.
Ithought you meant this becasue the link came up there:
Table 32: Discharge-CSR (Daylight) Metal Halide, Single-Ended Hot Restrike
200 T6 CSR200/SE/HR 14, 63 48462 10 GZY9.5 70 15000 5600 90+ .323 .328 5 200 39 80 Any 50

My mistake.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.