The guy said it is broken and something inside is clunking around, so I am assuming a capacitor has come desoldered from somewhere and is floating around in there. I didnt get many details. I just want to be prepared.
I only paid $55 for the amp so I figured I could give it a shot, seems to be a pretty powerful amp from looking at the specs.
I owned a brutus 1500 before and had it on 3 jl audio w3's and was very impressed.
I wonder what would be the difference in the BX2006 and BX2005 just different year models you think?
I only paid $55 for the amp so I figured I could give it a shot, seems to be a pretty powerful amp from looking at the specs.
I owned a brutus 1500 before and had it on 3 jl audio w3's and was very impressed.
I wonder what would be the difference in the BX2006 and BX2005 just different year models you think?
Well I recieved the amp today. All the power supply fets (FQP85N05) have been removed. Someone has attempted a repair on this unit. The gate resistors they installed are 22ohm but are to big and poorly installed.
Were the originals 22 ohm and if so were they 1/8 watt?
There are also some transistors poorly soldered on a driver board near the rail caps, dont know if there the right ones they are marked A1266 and there is only 3 of them or what they are suppose to be????
I will be replacing the power supply fets with IRF3205 and 47 ohm through hole resistors just need to know if they are suppose to 1/8 watt or what looks like they used 1/4 watt and they are to big for the spot on the board.
Any advice would be great and anything else I should be looking for asside blown outputs???
Were the originals 22 ohm and if so were they 1/8 watt?
There are also some transistors poorly soldered on a driver board near the rail caps, dont know if there the right ones they are marked A1266 and there is only 3 of them or what they are suppose to be????
I will be replacing the power supply fets with IRF3205 and 47 ohm through hole resistors just need to know if they are suppose to 1/8 watt or what looks like they used 1/4 watt and they are to big for the spot on the board.
Any advice would be great and anything else I should be looking for asside blown outputs???
I don't have anything on this amp but many of the amps that used 1/8w gate resistors used 22 ohm resistors. The ones with 1/4w resistors tended to use 47 ohm resistors.
If the layout is similar to the attached photo, there should be 4 1266s. There is one 1266 and one diode to drive each of the 4 banks of FETs.
If the layout is similar to the attached photo, there should be 4 1266s. There is one 1266 and one diode to drive each of the 4 banks of FETs.
Attachments
This amp is different and I have not confirmed but dont think its a 4080 amp. The parts yours show are not in this amp and it has a driver card next to the rail caps.
Pic 1 of board
Pic 2 of driver card with 3 1266's soldered on and I dont know if they are original I would say not by looking what do you think???
Pic 1 of board
Pic 2 of driver card with 3 1266's soldered on and I dont know if they are original I would say not by looking what do you think???
Attachments
Someone has done a real hack job here, I have removed the gate resistors and power supply fets legs. The solder pads are in rough shape from someone over heating them. I will be able to salvage them though.
I have ordered 47 ohm 1/8 watt resistors for the p/s gates, I stock the IRF3205.
The outputs are all original and they use a IRF640N and IRF9640, there a few shorted but I stock all those.
Question is what should the transistors be that drive the power supply fets on the driver board?? Looks to be four of them and there are 4 pads. The big pad in the front looks to be nothing other than an extra pad to hold down the transistor. The 3 pads in the back are what count.
Could I use PZTA56 in place cause I am not sure what the originals are???
Could you Perry or you bl4kcw1d0w tell me what the original drive transistors are on the boards you guys have and if the PZTA56 will be a sub or do I have to go original due to pin configuration???
Next question......should I be worried about the KA7500BD IC or has it possibly survived???
I really want to get this amp going, had a few older Hifonics in the past and they were good amps. Mostly a ROckford fan but I do like the older Hifonics.
Thanks........Sean
I have ordered 47 ohm 1/8 watt resistors for the p/s gates, I stock the IRF3205.
The outputs are all original and they use a IRF640N and IRF9640, there a few shorted but I stock all those.
Question is what should the transistors be that drive the power supply fets on the driver board?? Looks to be four of them and there are 4 pads. The big pad in the front looks to be nothing other than an extra pad to hold down the transistor. The 3 pads in the back are what count.
Could I use PZTA56 in place cause I am not sure what the originals are???
Could you Perry or you bl4kcw1d0w tell me what the original drive transistors are on the boards you guys have and if the PZTA56 will be a sub or do I have to go original due to pin configuration???
Next question......should I be worried about the KA7500BD IC or has it possibly survived???
I really want to get this amp going, had a few older Hifonics in the past and they were good amps. Mostly a ROckford fan but I do like the older Hifonics.
Thanks........Sean
The ones you posted will work. The originals had an HFE rating of R. The Q will work. You can use either.
A couple of notes...
It's really not a bad idea to have those transistors off of the board. The boards are not very high quality and will burn badly many times (as was shown in the thread for the link I posted).
You probably know this but the 7500 is the same as the TLx94 so it if you ever need to replace one, you'll likely have a replacement in stock.
A couple of notes...
It's really not a bad idea to have those transistors off of the board. The boards are not very high quality and will burn badly many times (as was shown in the thread for the link I posted).
You probably know this but the 7500 is the same as the TLx94 so it if you ever need to replace one, you'll likely have a replacement in stock.
The A56 will work but you'll have to twist the legs to make them work. If you plan on using these as permanent replacements, I'd suggest cleaning the through-hole for the collector and inserting the collector leg through the hole (soldering on both sides of the board).
If you want to use the BD140s, scrape a strip of solder mask from the back of the board. Fold the collector leg over the board and solder it down. You'll still need to insert a wire through the hole for the center leg of the original transistor to make sure that you have a good connection to the ground on the back of the board.
If you want to use the BD140s, scrape a strip of solder mask from the back of the board. Fold the collector leg over the board and solder it down. You'll still need to insert a wire through the hole for the center leg of the original transistor to make sure that you have a good connection to the ground on the back of the board.
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