I have a Hifonics brutus amp. I installed it in multiple cars with no problem. I recently installed into my continental and for some reason i believe there is a internal short. I know for a fact its not external. I have swithced out amps useing the same wires and all is ok. it keeps popping my inline fuse. THe fuses on the amp are fine.Please anyy advise on repair or diag. Would be greatly appreciated.
-thanx in advance.
-thanx in advance.
I don't know the amp very well, but I suppose it switches Fets. (mostly four pieces on a heatsink).
You can measure them with an ohms meter. From the middle pin to the outer pins you should measure diode-like resistance one way and infinite resistance (no resistance) the other way. When you measure a dead short they're blown...
You can measure them with an ohms meter. From the middle pin to the outer pins you should measure diode-like resistance one way and infinite resistance (no resistance) the other way. When you measure a dead short they're blown...
Re: Well
Power supply is blown and this was blown by the outputs being shorted in the amp. The outputs failed by either too low of a load or the leads to the fet broke off from vibration and that sent them into dead on condition thus blowing the power supply. Common failures only being listed here.
These are sold for like 80 bucks working on e-bay and they seem to all fail the same way. I have only been inside 40 or 50 of them, but when you see the same thing over and over its usually a sign of something.
They are cheap on e-bay buy a new one. As it will most probably need all the power devices replaced and thats a complete job if you do this for a living like I do.
imhondamatt said:
Power supply is blown and this was blown by the outputs being shorted in the amp. The outputs failed by either too low of a load or the leads to the fet broke off from vibration and that sent them into dead on condition thus blowing the power supply. Common failures only being listed here.
These are sold for like 80 bucks working on e-bay and they seem to all fail the same way. I have only been inside 40 or 50 of them, but when you see the same thing over and over its usually a sign of something.
They are cheap on e-bay buy a new one. As it will most probably need all the power devices replaced and thats a complete job if you do this for a living like I do.
If the amp only blows the fuse AFTER the remote voltage is applied, it's possible that the power supply has survived.
Generally, when there are shorted outputs but a working power supply, the fuse will blow (or the amp will go into protect mode) as the power supply ramps up and excessive current begins to flow through the shorted output transistors.
Since justonemore amp has seen 40+ of these amps, maybe he can tell you if there is a tendancy to blow components on the driver board of the audio section. If so, it may not be worth repairing (unlees the same drver board component fails each time).
Generally, when there are shorted outputs but a working power supply, the fuse will blow (or the amp will go into protect mode) as the power supply ramps up and excessive current begins to flow through the shorted output transistors.
Since justonemore amp has seen 40+ of these amps, maybe he can tell you if there is a tendancy to blow components on the driver board of the audio section. If so, it may not be worth repairing (unlees the same drver board component fails each time).
I can do one better my friend Perry I have the schematics from Zenon in China where these were made. 
As for the before and after turn on wire i don't believe I saw that specified by the owner but I might have missed it as it was late last night when i posted.
And you are correct if it is turn related then he might just be able to replace the 4 or 8 bad outputs (IRF3710) in either or both branches of the output stage and get a live one back on stage in his car.
But it will fail again unless he does some modding to the original design that allows the circuit board to flex with vibration and break the FET leads off at the package edge like I see in most of these.
Heck even the rectifier diodes break off to so its definitely a poor mechanical design that kills most of these as the circuitry is quite stout and the safety circuit do seem to work reliably. The newer models have a different assembly and FET mounting trying to solve the problem, but they are failing also from lead frame breakage < just closed one up last week same problem even with vertical mounting of the outputs.
I guess these amps were not meant to be mounted on the bass enclosure and or in the trunk near the bass drivers due to the excessive vibration it imparts on the internals of these amps.
As for the before and after turn on wire i don't believe I saw that specified by the owner but I might have missed it as it was late last night when i posted.
And you are correct if it is turn related then he might just be able to replace the 4 or 8 bad outputs (IRF3710) in either or both branches of the output stage and get a live one back on stage in his car.
But it will fail again unless he does some modding to the original design that allows the circuit board to flex with vibration and break the FET leads off at the package edge like I see in most of these.
Heck even the rectifier diodes break off to so its definitely a poor mechanical design that kills most of these as the circuitry is quite stout and the safety circuit do seem to work reliably. The newer models have a different assembly and FET mounting trying to solve the problem, but they are failing also from lead frame breakage < just closed one up last week same problem even with vertical mounting of the outputs.
I guess these amps were not meant to be mounted on the bass enclosure and or in the trunk near the bass drivers due to the excessive vibration it imparts on the internals of these amps.
I'd be willing to buy a copy of that schematic.
I'm always interested in buying schematics that are difficult to get.
Tt's amazing how many of these Chinese amps have problems with broken leads. Many times, their solutions don't work and they continue to have problems for several years before they get it right.
I'm always interested in buying schematics that are difficult to get.
Tt's amazing how many of these Chinese amps have problems with broken leads. Many times, their solutions don't work and they continue to have problems for several years before they get it right.
Re: Damn im amazed
Open up the bottom panel and look toward the RCA end and then look just to the right and left of the center of the board. These first sets of heat sinked FETs are your outputs. Ohm them out with a ohm meter the ones that read very low ohms < like 1 to 5 ohms > are shorted.
I replace entire sets on any side that has issues with new parts. The only thing is that most times the driver chip has also failed because the rails peeled back onto that IC in the middle of the board < HIP-4080AIP> is its number. ~$5 bucks at Digi-key last time I checked. Use this Link to find the parts you need:
http://www.findchips.com/avail
Just type in your part numbers and this search engine will find your parts and their price and availability.
Hope this helps, Its just a beginning
PS upload a clear pic if you can I red mark them when needed
imhondamatt said:
Open up the bottom panel and look toward the RCA end and then look just to the right and left of the center of the board. These first sets of heat sinked FETs are your outputs. Ohm them out with a ohm meter the ones that read very low ohms < like 1 to 5 ohms > are shorted.
I replace entire sets on any side that has issues with new parts. The only thing is that most times the driver chip has also failed because the rails peeled back onto that IC in the middle of the board < HIP-4080AIP> is its number. ~$5 bucks at Digi-key last time I checked. Use this Link to find the parts you need:
http://www.findchips.com/avail
Just type in your part numbers and this search engine will find your parts and their price and availability.
Hope this helps, Its just a beginning
PS upload a clear pic if you can I red mark them when needed
OHmed them
Well i put the ohm meter on them. If im looking at the board with the rca's on top.... The left side fets read. 0.00 anyway i put the leads.
On the right side i get a ...... I reading. i think it means infinite.
Am i on the right track. I also found the driver chip you were talking about. I guess there is no was to test it so i will buy a new one.
Well i put the ohm meter on them. If im looking at the board with the rca's on top.... The left side fets read. 0.00 anyway i put the leads.
On the right side i get a ...... I reading. i think it means infinite.
Am i on the right track. I also found the driver chip you were talking about. I guess there is no was to test it so i will buy a new one.
Recheck the fets and compare one sides readings to the other. The shorted ones will read low ohms on the two that are side by side in pairs.
If in doubt then lift the center lead and read them again. The IRF3710's are the output fets. And these get shorted.
Also buy two of the HIP-4080AIP's . The reason is why they put these in a socket. NO one uses sockets unless the device has a high failure rate and that failure rate is also present at the time of build up. In other words the chip is so static sensitive the amps often fail on start up right on the assembly line, so they socket the device for easy replacement, from the beginning.
All the HIP-4080 amps have this chip socketed. Thats a lot of amps, and since sockets cost money it a fair assumption that it was needed more than wanted.
If in doubt then lift the center lead and read them again. The IRF3710's are the output fets. And these get shorted.
Also buy two of the HIP-4080AIP's . The reason is why they put these in a socket. NO one uses sockets unless the device has a high failure rate and that failure rate is also present at the time of build up. In other words the chip is so static sensitive the amps often fail on start up right on the assembly line, so they socket the device for easy replacement, from the beginning.
All the HIP-4080 amps have this chip socketed. Thats a lot of amps, and since sockets cost money it a fair assumption that it was needed more than wanted.
wow, this thread helped me out a lot!
found out which one of my FET's blew, ordered the chip, and it would be here soon!
I only have one question. Turns out I blew the FET by running the sub bridged on a 2ohm load, which it isn't stable at. Its a MTX Thunder302. Funny thing is, I ran it like this for about 6 months.
How should I go about running my 2 10"s safely with this amp?
Heres the spec sheet:
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/thunder302.cfm
Thanks!
found out which one of my FET's blew, ordered the chip, and it would be here soon!
I only have one question. Turns out I blew the FET by running the sub bridged on a 2ohm load, which it isn't stable at. Its a MTX Thunder302. Funny thing is, I ran it like this for about 6 months.
How should I go about running my 2 10"s safely with this amp?
Heres the spec sheet:
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/thunder302.cfm
Thanks!
apparently the amp can run in both bridged and stereo mode.
I can run one bridged, and one normally and achieve a desired effect? I guess we'll see...
I also wonder if my box is made wrong. It's 1.7 cubic feet, and a sealed enclosure filled with whatziewhoozit, the polyester stuffing stuff. This is for 2 10" kicker solobarics. The OLD round ones, before they started putting all that plastic on em.
I can run one bridged, and one normally and achieve a desired effect? I guess we'll see...
I also wonder if my box is made wrong. It's 1.7 cubic feet, and a sealed enclosure filled with whatziewhoozit, the polyester stuffing stuff. This is for 2 10" kicker solobarics. The OLD round ones, before they started putting all that plastic on em.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.