It's ok, I know which one needs to be mounted. Going to do the work on Saturday when I have plenty of time
Hoping to get a chassis very early in the new year, something with huge heatsinks so I can use it to heat my spare room
Could you please let me know where did you get the 18NB40 Mosfets?
Breakage
Ok, got one of the dps-600s back up and running [one with blown 1R fuses]. On the second unit I made another boo-boo...
I removed the heatsink to enable easier removal / fitting of the mosfet... this bit is complete and heatsink back in place but, while fitting the heatsink clamps I cought the Film Capacitor C5 breaking it off...
AP2, can you please let me know the part code / name / values etc for C5...
I need to order the parts for the bias circuit and can order this at the same time.
regards
Paul
Ok, got one of the dps-600s back up and running [one with blown 1R fuses]. On the second unit I made another boo-boo...
I removed the heatsink to enable easier removal / fitting of the mosfet... this bit is complete and heatsink back in place but, while fitting the heatsink clamps I cought the Film Capacitor C5 breaking it off...
AP2, can you please let me know the part code / name / values etc for C5...
I need to order the parts for the bias circuit and can order this at the same time.
regards
Paul
Eh? i hope you not have destroyed lm317/337 area...ahahah!
C5 is 100nF400V poliest "Arcotronics" but is not critical.
please, ceck well iso on both regulators "LM".
This mosfet, not require heatsink removed normally.
regards
What is everyone else using between alu heat bar on the DPS600 and the alu heatsink/heat spreader sheet that Roberto has recommended? I think it's got to be some conductive thermal paste, right? To isolate it would leave an isolated lump of aluminium electrically floating inside the chassis?
Any other opinions on whether the thermal interface between the two should be isolating or conductive in this application?
I'm using an individual bar for each of my DPS600 because it suits my layout better. I've got some 3mm thick 50mm wide bar for each DPS600.
Any other opinions on whether the thermal interface between the two should be isolating or conductive in this application?
I'm using an individual bar for each of my DPS600 because it suits my layout better. I've got some 3mm thick 50mm wide bar for each DPS600.
I don't think there would be much value in using keratherm for this, the heat load isn't high enough.
The bias/protection thing got put on hold a bit ... I'm going to build and test one amp+dps600 over the Easter break then go back to it. I have a schematic that would do it all with discrete ICs include 555 timers, flipflops, schmitt triggered buffers etc but getting a pcb layout that I was happy with and the cost including an extra power supply was never really lining up with what I had in mind. The number of ICs to connect together just was not neat on a 2 layer board at least it wasn't a layout I was able to get right since I have only very limited layout experience. I am now thinking of doing what qusp suggested fairly early on, use a microprocessor (arduino or similar) instead of all of the ICs. I have a few projects now to write Arduino stuff for so I might end up rolling my own Arduino pcb that is tailored to these 2 or 3 applications, more on those 'other applications' in the coming weeks/months
The bias/protection thing got put on hold a bit ... I'm going to build and test one amp+dps600 over the Easter break then go back to it. I have a schematic that would do it all with discrete ICs include 555 timers, flipflops, schmitt triggered buffers etc but getting a pcb layout that I was happy with and the cost including an extra power supply was never really lining up with what I had in mind. The number of ICs to connect together just was not neat on a 2 layer board at least it wasn't a layout I was able to get right since I have only very limited layout experience. I am now thinking of doing what qusp suggested fairly early on, use a microprocessor (arduino or similar) instead of all of the ICs. I have a few projects now to write Arduino stuff for so I might end up rolling my own Arduino pcb that is tailored to these 2 or 3 applications, more on those 'other applications' in the coming weeks/months
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Finally got the last bit for the not-working DPS-600 [100nF 400V - C5] and put in place...
Unfortunately no joy, the unit is still not working. On power up both green led's blink at roughly a 1 sec cycle on-off etc...
Only replaced one Mosfet first time, going to have a last go and replace all this time...
Paul
Unfortunately no joy, the unit is still not working. On power up both green led's blink at roughly a 1 sec cycle on-off etc...
Only replaced one Mosfet first time, going to have a last go and replace all this time...
Paul
Right, back home and stripped off the heatsink again and replaced the IRFP250 and 2 x 18NB40 Mosfets.
Still no joy. On Power Up, both green LED's light as normal for 1 sec, dim for 1 sec then starts a quick on-off cycle [roughly 2 pulses per second]?
Starting to feel like this build is jinxed
Paul
Still no joy. On Power Up, both green LED's light as normal for 1 sec, dim for 1 sec then starts a quick on-off cycle [roughly 2 pulses per second]?
Starting to feel like this build is jinxed
Paul
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Yep, I saw the LPUHP thread not long after it was first posted, however at the time was of the mind set that more power was required...
Am still considering switching to a higher bias after start-up, it's just making the switch fool proof enough. Plus integrating some thermal protection for the higher temps.
Could possibly utilise a Raspberry Pi running a basic start-up program, allowing switching to/from standby and set Low/High bias via momentary switches or from a GUI.
It was me not correcting the bias while testing, that blew this unit in the first place. Fingers crossed that it can be made to work again
Am still considering switching to a higher bias after start-up, it's just making the switch fool proof enough. Plus integrating some thermal protection for the higher temps.
Could possibly utilise a Raspberry Pi running a basic start-up program, allowing switching to/from standby and set Low/High bias via momentary switches or from a GUI.
It was me not correcting the bias while testing, that blew this unit in the first place. Fingers crossed that it can be made to work again
Thanks for the heads up about making sure I check the bias before starting while I test it, I'm getting closer to testing mine in the next few weeks. Ideas cooking for bias switching So, don't focus too much on solving that problem for now.
I'm with qusp sending the DPS600 back to Roberto for repair is looking like an good option at the moment.
So, don't focus too much on solving that problem for now. I'm with qusp sending the DPS600 back to Roberto for repair is looking like an good option at the moment.
Hi guys,
as the DPS600 is noticed anywhere, where "The Wire" can be found, I asked myself, where it could be bought, as AudioPower only has the 400-/ 500-series. Is it still not in a final status?
Another information I couldn't find is the AUX-voltage, which should be higher for my (LME-) usage than the output voltage..
Many thanks,
Stammheim
as the DPS600 is noticed anywhere, where "The Wire" can be found, I asked myself, where it could be bought, as AudioPower only has the 400-/ 500-series. Is it still not in a final status?
Another information I couldn't find is the AUX-voltage, which should be higher for my (LME-) usage than the output voltage..
Many thanks,
Stammheim
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