Wire stator gluing method

[moray james]

see link for info

http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=300

because styrene louvre is such a crappy material and is full (read lots) of plastiszer you really want to use an adhesive (solvent based) to insure a weld joint. Many glues may well stick to the styrene but as the pastiser sweats out of the material to the surface the glue bond will float off on a puddle of grease. So the solvent weld approach is really the best for long term results and it is cheap. This is not to say you cannot achieve results with other glues but only that this method has a long tried and true track record and will probably cost you a lot less money. Acrylic louver is more expensive but is less resonant and is stronger and of a much higher quality than the junk used in styrene louvers. That said styrene louvres should get you 15-25 years if you dont bang them around. Regards Moray James.

 

[Bazukaz]

Hi,
I apply glue on both sides.It is quite time consuming , but gives by far larger adhession area to styrene. I am not sure if the glue really melts into louver material. It is a specific glue to make "T" form joints of plexiglass , etc.
I was very lucky to find one type of styrene louvers in my city 🙂. They call it "ventilation grid". The price is approx $20 per one louver.Am not sure if it is styrene , but , since it is light and weak , i assume it is. It is so flexible that you cannot roll the wires without a jig - the louver starts to wriggle due to strong tension. A simple wooden frame with threaded rods on ends helps a lot.
I am searching for mylar , and e-mailed audiocircuit for it. No answer up to now (a few days already). 🙁

Regards,
Lukas.

 

[BillH]

Hi, Lukas. Do you Ebay?

Hans Zeeuwe from The Audio Circuit posts mylar there regularly. That's where I got mine. Here's his current auction. He calls it 'Hostaphan' in his ads.

 

[Calvin]

Hi,

just make sure its Hostaphan RE!

jauu
Calvin

 

[MJ Dijkstra]

If you are looking for genuine Mylar R, you can also contact me.
The 6 micron mylar is 100 cm width (custom made for esls) which makes it possible to tension two panels at once.
Shipping with EC-coating is at no extra charge.

mj-dijkstra@zonnet.nl

 

[WrineX]

Hi,

my experience is that the wire coming out of the box as it is has some kinks which You can´t get perfectly straight by just pulling. My method was to fix one end of the wire and to use a drilling machine and pull for the other end. This way the wire became perfectly flat. I tested each wire by letting it roll down on a slightly tilted (10°) glass plate. This way even flat looking devices were sorted out when they didn´t pass the test. While it is a good and typical DIY-method (excellent results but takes too much working time 😉 ) You can only use it for panels with just a few wires. If You want to use thinner wire it ends up in ridiculous time consumption.
I considered the method John.G proposed too, but I like my ESLs to be of an optically open style without cloth etc. so eggcrate wasn´t on my list. Too, with this method You still have something to do by cutting and soldering every wire.
Thats why I thought about a method of winding ´back and forth´ and not round and round´.
I think of a kind of jig with a row of pins at both ends to wind the wire on and to glue the stator frame on the wires.
The wire would come of off the box and would run through a device consisting of several roller dressers (?) with perpendicular (or at least some angular) orientation to each other. Together with the bending this device could supply for the needed and constant pull. When the wire is bent slightly and pulled in different directions every kink in it vanishes. The device could be made up of two or three rollers (ball bearings or just rods with smooth surfaces or those ceramic rings for fishing rods)...so nothing complicated big or heavy.

What do You think?

jauu
Calvin

something like this 🙂 but then it is complicated and heavy 😉 bought a bit oversized linear rail 🙂 but dont need 2 now 🙂 so got one sitting on the shelf haha