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Old 14th November 2012, 03:22 PM   #71
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That looks an awful lot like a knurled tool handle finish doesn't it?
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Old 21st November 2012, 06:12 AM   #72
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Very interesting thread Also adding the Studio Grand mid tweeter ribbon
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Last edited by DeltaStar; 21st November 2012 at 06:37 AM. Reason: add
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Old 21st November 2012, 07:21 AM   #73
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Hello.
I see that I'm figuring in this thread so.....

The corrugation wheels was made by a mechanical company in Sweden that
specialises in gears. Quite expensive if you just want one pair but as always
prices go down with numbers. I always recomend people asking to try and find
a fine mechanical school nearby. They somtimes think that it's an interesting
project, a lot cheaper as well. My first pair was done that way.

"The tall neodymium ribbon". Part 1

There will be some rewriting of the article in the future, sometime next year.
Just some minor adjustments for things learned since it was first publiched.

Last edited by dahlberg; 21st November 2012 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 21st November 2012, 09:03 AM   #74
hanski is offline hanski  Finland
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Thanks for the info Dahlberg,
would you like to share your thoughts about fine pitch corrugation vs. coarse pitch corrugation?

My experience is the finer the pitch the better (foil only ribbon). I also tighten the foil so that corrugations are pulled almost flat. This takes away the bass rattle of a flat foil and has very little resonances compared with deep corrugations.

Btw, here's a picture of amp update. Hypex Ncores making friends with UCD modules.
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Old 21st November 2012, 10:01 AM   #75
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The only experience of fine/cource corrugation I have is from a short ribbon
project where the cource one gave a higher output due to less shrinkage and
obviously a lower resistance. I haven't done any other tests with pure foil
ribbons and different corrugations besides that one so I'm not of much help in
that department. On the longer ribbons the fine corrugation is a winner in every
way, except finding/manufactoring the gears.
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Old 21st November 2012, 11:24 AM   #76
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Somewhere in the dark past .. I think i recall reading about the usage of a fine smear of vaseline / petroleum jelly to the ribbon diaphram of some decca london /dk30 type tweeters
Ring any bells for anybody else ??

not sure about this idea as i suspect it would add some noticeable amount of mass to the ribbon...
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Old 21st November 2012, 12:10 PM   #77
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I think I once posted that I had observed a Vaseline blob at the centre of the ribbon of a Decca London and asked if it was standard issue. I’m not sure if I had any confirmation...
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Old 22nd November 2012, 09:01 AM   #78
HellMan is offline HellMan  Finland
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I have couple questions about arranging magnets when constructing ribbon tweeter.

Here's a link http://www.saunalahti.fi/~hellmann/i...anttiProto.PDF to a 3D pdf-file.

Is that correct way to arrange magnets?
And the other question is how do you manage put the magnets to rows so that they're touching each other without using glue? Does it have something to do with shape or are the polarities flipped?
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Old 22nd November 2012, 11:55 AM   #79
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This is the way you are supposed to mount them if you are going for two rows.
They absolutly do not want to sit like this so it's quite a struggle to mount them.
They will repell (with significant force since there are a lot of them) sideways
and be attracted by the ones on the other steelbar.
If you are unlucky they can actually flip and jump to the nearest magnet and sometimes
breaks when doing so as well (buy a few extras).
I used to use a rubber strip squeezed in between the magnets to prevent them
from rotating in place, they need to be able to rotate to flip so.....
Now I'm gluing all magnets with slow hardening 2-comp epoxy since I came to
the conclusion that I would never remount any magnetsystems.

Click the image to open in full size.

I see that you are from Finland, if you read Swedish there is an old thread of
mine at "hififorum.nu"
HiFiForum.nu - En lång neodymium-banddiskant.
where you most likely can find answers to a lot of your questions.

Ps. Hope that this wasn't to much OT.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 01:28 PM   #80
Paul W is offline Paul W  United States
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Here, single magnets are used across the face of each pole. Using long and wide magnets on stout pole pieces reduces the tendency to repel and flip. Aluminum strips attached to the poles bridge the sides of the magnets and hold them in place.

Gently slide one end of the long magnets onto each pole and push them into place, otherwise they will "slam" onto the poles and break. Placing a wooden spacer in the gap during assembly helps prevent accidents.

Click the image to open in full size.
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