Material for ESL

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Can i use window tint film by LLumar? It can shrink and I can get it in different thickness. 35%shade is real thin as 5% is thick, non metalic of course, just want some input as this might save some money on the project and maybe help eveyone as it is window tint, ( not clear, allready has a good look) please let me know, I am currently readind Mark Rehorst book and thought this would work. Mavric
 
How thick is the tint ? If cheap is the issue then i dont think esl would be a good application. You can get enough mylar from McMaster Carr for an entire esl pair for $10-15 USD. But if you going for a look other than clear it might be cool. Have you ever tried measuring the resistance of said window tint. I'm not sure how the window tint process works, but i wonder if you could get away without doing any diaphragm coating if thats the case. Anyways that my two bit hopefully it made some kinda sense, sry just spent 6 hrs on a flight next to a baby crying bloody murder the entire way.:ill:
 
Can i use window tint film by LLumar? It can shrink and I can get it in different thickness. 35%shade is real thin as 5% is thick, non metalic of course, just want some input as this might save some money on the project and maybe help eveyone as it is window tint, ( not clear, allready has a good look) please let me know, I am currently readind Mark Rehorst book and thought this would work. Mavric

You can use the .0005" film from McMaster Carr or, if you can drive to Savannah, I will give you enough 12 micron polyester film (just under .0005") to make a couple of panels.
 
Question and post

Charlie, I will make the drive as soon as I have time from work, window tint is not looking well, I would rather take advice as you have done this and everyone else on this forum.
If I can make it down there, what materials should I bring? MDF? router, Let me know, and by the way, I am still trying to find your post on idea and fundementals of an ESL. Need to read some more.
 
If I can make it down there, what materials should I bring? MDF? router, Let me know, and by the way, I am still trying to find your post on idea and fundementals of an ESL. Need to read some more.

I hope you're bringing a simpler cabinet design concept than what I used, otherwise you might as well pack your bags and move in because you won't finish cabinets like mine over a weekend (or two, or three). Seriously, drop in for a listen when you can get away and we can draw up a design for you and plan from there. I will PM you with more details.

Here's a link to my blog page:
The Jazzman's Electrostatic Loudspeaker Blog
 
I am going as suggested, window tint will not work, have not tried, but it was a though as it allmost the same material. McMaster is obvious, otherwise someone else would have tried a different material.
Hopefully starting my build tomorrow, I know it takes time and I wish everyone would share their comments. Kindly look and and give me some feed back, this is not a cheap adveture. So, with some help, I would like to get it right the first time. No one has helped me more than Charlie, so thank you.
 
you never know unless you try it.i was going to once and had bought some but it was thicker than what i already have.but it is alot wider than what i already have (1 ft)and might be a good canidate for some kind of bass only panel.something i might try sometime at a later date
 
Please look at my last post on same forum, window tint is out, I believe it is conductive, as I am learning, I am either getting smarter or dumber, that is why I posted about Charli's ESL. I heard them and spent hours just listening, I will probally not post on this as I have learned a few more things. Sincerly.
 
Has anyone tried the film sold for model airplanes?

example:

Model Research Lab

SY,

I have tried the 1/4 mil stuff and it seems identical in strength and uniform shrinkage to the Hostaphan I have on hand.
Here is the response I got from the seller when I asked for details on it.

"This stuff in made in Germany and I'm almost certain its not DuPont.
Seems to shrink the same in both directions.
I got this from a speaker manufacture, they had to buy 500 pounds in order to get the 100 pounds they needed.
There are no MIL certs. but the material appears to be the best .00025 I have ever had in stock. "
 
Sy,
I live in the country and have seen and felt model airplane lexan, it is pretty thick. As I told charlie, I have a micrometer at work as we do Rhino linings for beds of trucks,etc. as i recall, 12 mills is what he suggested, I stand behind him on his ESL construction, there is nothing I have heard in all of my years that had the accoustic's , hell, I just can't explain it. My father and stayed for a few hours just to listen with different kinds of music, jazz, a womens voice, you name it. I like rock( 80's- 90's) no hip hop..period.
so any recommendations on the list of stuff I should by first? I think I posted a list, as soon I start getting material, the more I read and then, build and build. This is so facinating, So as i said, "I AM IN!!!"
with kind regards and respect to everyone, thank you.
 
i have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made
 
i have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made Yesterday 08:15 PMi have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made Yesterday 08:15 PM
 
ha,ha,ha,as atest i was listening to some rain and thunder off of a cassette tape and my dog kept running to the window to watch the rain but there wasn't any.it was the funniest thing i ever saw! mavric do you think that the rhino linning stuff would make a good stator coating?or is it to difficult work with
 
the rhino lining is a good choice, the down side is uniformity, our machine sprays at 2000psi, and tend to have a "hick up" from time to time, not mention expensive. I fell it can be done, it is the holes in the stator I am worried about. 2000psi @ 200+ Ferenheight, dries within seconds. the stuff is basiclly, black super glue with an accellorator to cure fast. AND it does NOT at any point come off easy.
I will do this, find some 1/16" steel, use a steel drill bit and make a small stator, have it on standby next time I spray a truck or one of our boxes. Just to see if can stay at 12 mil. on both sides and not clog the holes, Charlie, if you are reading, I forgot the diameter of the holes, blonde moment here, just tired.
Either way as soon as I can, I will post it. I think I can make it work by changing the mix chamber on the gun to a smaller jet, and not to mention, this stuff is awsome on sub enclosures.
 
it sprays on smooth and very shiny, the reason you see the texture is popping the trigger and letting the stuff allmost dry in mid air, its just consistancy and cost. Rhino and LineX are allmost the same, so if anyone has a local business that does it, its worth a try. I told Charlie I have a micrometer, but the one I use measures between the rhino and metal of the truck bed, same would apply for the stator. If someone beats me to it, please let us know.
 
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