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Old 21st January 2010, 11:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mavric View Post
it sprays on smooth and very shiny, the reason you see the texture is popping the trigger and letting the stuff allmost dry in mid air, its just consistancy and cost. Rhino and LineX are allmost the same, so if anyone has a local business that does it, its worth a try. I told Charlie I have a micrometer, but the one I use measures between the rhino and metal of the truck bed, same would apply for the stator. If someone beats me to it, please let us know.
The Rhino lining thing sounds promising if you could spray it on without filling the holes and control the thickness to, let's say, 10-20 mils. Too bad you didn't take home a piece of that perf metal stator material I had left over from my build but I guess we weren't thinking about it at the time. Anyway, can't wait to hear how that Rhino lining works.
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Old 22nd January 2010, 01:54 AM   #22
mavric is offline mavric  United States
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10-20 mils should be no problem, i guess now would be the time to order the stators, same as yours Charlie, that way we all have a "control" your technique and another. Where do I order the stators from again? and how much do they cost USD?
if there is any over spray, it can b ground down to spec, just have to use a side grinder or something agressive, it is called, HARD LINER, if anyone wants to look it up, Rhino Worldwide Protection just look for hard liner and tell me what you think.
On another note with this, if there is any texture from over spray, will that have or effect the plastic element in any way?, over spray is only 5 mil at most, however it has a rough texture, not smooth and glossy. but like i said, can be trimmed or sanded..
I need some stators, who makes them again? Charlie?
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Old 22nd January 2010, 08:40 AM   #23
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10-20 mils should be no problem, i guess now would be the time to order the stators, same as yours Charlie, that way we all have a "control" your technique and another. Where do I order the stators from again? and how much do they cost USD?
if there is any over spray, it can b ground down to spec, just have to use a side grinder or something agressive, it is called, HARD LINER, if anyone wants to look it up, Rhino Worldwide Protection just look for hard liner and tell me what you think.
On another note with this, if there is any texture from over spray, will that have or effect the plastic element in any way?, over spray is only 5 mil at most, however it has a rough texture, not smooth and glossy. but like i said, can be trimmed or sanded..
I need some stators, who makes them again? Charlie?
My stators are 48" high but I don't know of a retail source. You could probably get 48x16 sheets from Just Real Music. What I recomeded to you are the 36X40 sheets from McMaster Carr, which I think would be fine--you could get a pair of stator per sheet. It is .48 thick, 51% open with .141 holes: McMaster-Carr:
McMaster-Carr
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Old 22nd January 2010, 11:16 PM   #24
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Emailed Mccaster, waiting on price. With that said, do I just cut in half? I so, which tool would be best? My fathher has a welding buddy, I'll call and see if he has scissor cutter.
and one more thing, if the spraying works, do i have to leave a spot clean for the copper tape? Charlie, is there anyway you can email me pic of the back of stator, a full pic if you can.the rounded edges has me a bit sonfused, I think I know, just need conformation,
There is so much to learn here and I am not asking stupid question or suggesting stupid answers, the rhino came up in my mind when Charlie told me some paint is conductive, time consuming, and alot of primer and paint. I think I have a rhino to do tomorrow, i will try and find some metal and try it, probally without holes, as it is first thing in the morning job, my target is 15 mil. wish me luck and I hope this works.
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Old 22nd January 2010, 11:18 PM   #25
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Sy,
I live in the country and have seen and felt model airplane lexan, it is pretty thick. As I told charlie, I have a micrometer at work as we do Rhino linings for beds of trucks,etc. as i recall, 12 mills is what he suggested...
If this post was referring to the diaphragm rather than to the stator coating, I think you might be confusing mils and microns. 12 mil is too thick for diaphragm material. The 0.0005" thick (half mil) stuff Charlie referred to is about 12 microns thick.
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Old 22nd January 2010, 11:49 PM   #26
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If is microns, my idea is burnt toast. going spray something anyway, my jaw just dropped, feeling a little dumber by the minute. I am still reading the cook book, trying my best to use what I have available aroud here, I live in a small town. With that said, I am waiting to hear from Maccaster, I do not want to screw this up.
tried posting a pic,
bump
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File Type: zip planer esl.zip (1.5 KB, 68 views)
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Last edited by mavric; 22nd January 2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: wrong pic
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Old 22nd January 2010, 11:52 PM   #27
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I hpoe this works
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File Type: zip new idea.zip (2.5 KB, 58 views)
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Old 23rd January 2010, 12:07 AM   #28
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Just to be clear, "Mav," I'm referring to the diaphragm thickness and not to the stator coating thickness. I'm not saying there's a problem with a thicker stator coating (thicker can often be helpful); I'm just suggesting 12 mil thick diaphragm material is likely to have a hard time giving you the high frequency response you want.
Few

P.S. I'm having trouble with the files you posted.

Last edited by Few; 23rd January 2010 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 23rd January 2010, 12:17 AM   #29
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Mavric,
Maybe there is confusion. I was referring to the insulation coating on the stators when I suggested 10-20 "mils" (.010"-.020"). The Mylar diaphragm material I'm donating to your project is 12 microns thick (about .0005"). I would use a bandsaw with a sheet-metal blade to cut the stators (shears or tin snips may bend the metal). Also, the edges of he holes in the perf metal will be smooth on one side of the sheet and sharp on the other side--- the smooth side must face the diaphragm to prevent arcing. Also, you want to match the stators so that holes in the front and back stators line up perfectly.
Also, sand the sharp edges smooth and, when you apply the insulation coating (whatever you decide to use) make sure you get a good coating on the edges too-- the edges are the areas most prone to arcing. One last thing: the stators need to be very flat and they might not be when you get them-- if not, I have a buddy in Springfiled that can roll them flat for you after you trim them so size.

There is no need to email McMaster-Carr because you can order directly off their website and have it in two or three days. Did you get the parts list I PM'd you? It has all the part numbers on it.
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Old 23rd January 2010, 12:42 AM   #30
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I hpoe this works
Sorry but I can't open either one of those files. I am using an older verison of DeltaCad that can't even open your drawing file and I don't have the software to open that folder you posted either. Anyway, hope you're having fun with it!
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