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Old 19th January 2010, 02:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SY View Post
Has anyone tried the film sold for model airplanes?

example:

Model Research Lab
SY,

I have tried the 1/4 mil stuff and it seems identical in strength and uniform shrinkage to the Hostaphan I have on hand.
Here is the response I got from the seller when I asked for details on it.

"This stuff in made in Germany and I'm almost certain its not DuPont.
Seems to shrink the same in both directions.
I got this from a speaker manufacture, they had to buy 500 pounds in order to get the 100 pounds they needed.
There are no MIL certs. but the material appears to be the best .00025 I have ever had in stock. "
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Old 20th January 2010, 12:15 AM   #12
mavric is offline mavric  United States
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Sy,
I live in the country and have seen and felt model airplane lexan, it is pretty thick. As I told charlie, I have a micrometer at work as we do Rhino linings for beds of trucks,etc. as i recall, 12 mills is what he suggested, I stand behind him on his ESL construction, there is nothing I have heard in all of my years that had the accoustic's , hell, I just can't explain it. My father and stayed for a few hours just to listen with different kinds of music, jazz, a womens voice, you name it. I like rock( 80's- 90's) no hip hop..period.
so any recommendations on the list of stuff I should by first? I think I posted a list, as soon I start getting material, the more I read and then, build and build. This is so facinating, So as i said, "I AM IN!!!"
with kind regards and respect to everyone, thank you.
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Old 20th January 2010, 04:54 AM   #13
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i have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made
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Old 20th January 2010, 05:03 AM   #14
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i have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made Yesterday 08:15 PMi have used monokote with good results the adhesive bonds well without peeling.i used acetone to wash of the unwanted adhesive it is about .5mil and also used another type i think it was called super ultrakote or something i got it at the toledo show back in 03 or 04 it worked fine but since i had the .25 mil stuff i didn't use much in fact it was my very first diagphram i ever made Yesterday 08:15 PM
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Old 20th January 2010, 05:08 AM   #15
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sorry about the triple post im still learning to edit
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Old 20th January 2010, 05:22 AM   #16
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ha,ha,ha,as atest i was listening to some rain and thunder off of a cassette tape and my dog kept running to the window to watch the rain but there wasn't any.it was the funniest thing i ever saw! mavric do you think that the rhino linning stuff would make a good stator coating?or is it to difficult work with
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Old 21st January 2010, 01:50 AM   #17
mavric is offline mavric  United States
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the rhino lining is a good choice, the down side is uniformity, our machine sprays at 2000psi, and tend to have a "hick up" from time to time, not mention expensive. I fell it can be done, it is the holes in the stator I am worried about. 2000psi @ 200+ Ferenheight, dries within seconds. the stuff is basiclly, black super glue with an accellorator to cure fast. AND it does NOT at any point come off easy.
I will do this, find some 1/16" steel, use a steel drill bit and make a small stator, have it on standby next time I spray a truck or one of our boxes. Just to see if can stay at 12 mil. on both sides and not clog the holes, Charlie, if you are reading, I forgot the diameter of the holes, blonde moment here, just tired.
Either way as soon as I can, I will post it. I think I can make it work by changing the mix chamber on the gun to a smaller jet, and not to mention, this stuff is awsome on sub enclosures.
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Old 21st January 2010, 02:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavric View Post
Charlie, if you are reading, I forgot the diameter of the holes, blonde moment here, just tired.
For the perf metal from McMaster-Carr that's on your build list, the hole diameter is .141"
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Old 21st January 2010, 02:49 AM   #19
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man if you could come up with a stator to withstand 10 to 20 kv without arcing in a 1/8" to 1/4" spacing you could reach awesome spl's! you said it sets quick how smooth can you get it?im thinking wire stators. jer p.s. is it sand able
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Old 21st January 2010, 11:43 PM   #20
mavric is offline mavric  United States
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it sprays on smooth and very shiny, the reason you see the texture is popping the trigger and letting the stuff allmost dry in mid air, its just consistancy and cost. Rhino and LineX are allmost the same, so if anyone has a local business that does it, its worth a try. I told Charlie I have a micrometer, but the one I use measures between the rhino and metal of the truck bed, same would apply for the stator. If someone beats me to it, please let us know.
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