Hi,
I finally finished my DAX-BOSOZ this week. It is a combination of Perpetual Technologies P1-A, P3-A with a X-BOSOZ output stage.
In the pic you can see the P1-A and P3-A on the right, the x-bosoz in the middle and the power supply for the P1/3-A on the left.
The power supply for the x-bosoz sits underneath the aluminium cover in the middle.
William
I finally finished my DAX-BOSOZ this week. It is a combination of Perpetual Technologies P1-A, P3-A with a X-BOSOZ output stage.
In the pic you can see the P1-A and P3-A on the right, the x-bosoz in the middle and the power supply for the P1/3-A on the left.
The power supply for the x-bosoz sits underneath the aluminium cover in the middle.
William
Attachments
these are the P3-A (top) and P1-A (underneath a sheet of copper). They are attached to the back (the P1-A is isolated) and to a piece of plexiglas.
I put 4 new pushbuttons on the front for the various modes and used some fibreoptics to get the light from the leds to the faceplate.
I put 4 new pushbuttons on the front for the various modes and used some fibreoptics to get the light from the leds to the faceplate.
Attachments
here a last pic of the front. On the right are the 4 pushbuttons and a row of 1mm holes for the fibre optics.
The front is 10mm aluminium, the sides and internals are 6mm and the bottom and top are 4mm aluminium.
With this one I now finally removed all opamps out of the signal path
It sounds quite a lot better than the (modified) P1-A /P3-A combination. Changes are the same as when I changed from my OPA627 based preamp to a x-bosoz. It sound more natural throughout the range, somehow much faster, better (less thumpy) and deeper bass. Room information is also improved. This way listening to CD´s is slowly becoming acceptable
William
The front is 10mm aluminium, the sides and internals are 6mm and the bottom and top are 4mm aluminium.
With this one I now finally removed all opamps out of the signal path
It sounds quite a lot better than the (modified) P1-A /P3-A combination. Changes are the same as when I changed from my OPA627 based preamp to a x-bosoz. It sound more natural throughout the range, somehow much faster, better (less thumpy) and deeper bass. Room information is also improved. This way listening to CD´s is slowly becoming acceptable
William
Attachments
thanks for the nice comments!
Hugo,
the netfilter is only for the P1/3-A but is still not functioning as I would like. Something in the P3-A is causing my A5 to hum (mechanically) although both are on my balanced ac supply.
Will have to do something about this.
Here´s another pic of the little nobs. Drilling the 1mm holes wasn´t fun. I tried to drill through the complete 10mm faceplate but gave up after two drills broke (and got stuck). I then machined a 7mm deep slot in the back and put a piece of plexiglas in in to position the fibreoptics.
As always the mechanical part was a lot more work than the soldering
William
Hugo,
the netfilter is only for the P1/3-A but is still not functioning as I would like. Something in the P3-A is causing my A5 to hum (mechanically) although both are on my balanced ac supply.
Will have to do something about this.
Here´s another pic of the little nobs. Drilling the 1mm holes wasn´t fun. I tried to drill through the complete 10mm faceplate but gave up after two drills broke (and got stuck). I then machined a 7mm deep slot in the back and put a piece of plexiglas in in to position the fibreoptics.
As always the mechanical part was a lot more work than the soldering
William
Attachments
.
Hi Taco,
the P3-A is the DAC. The P1-A is a digital enhancer. Reclocks and "enhances". You can switch off the enhancment mode but usually it sounds better with it. The only thing it can´t stand is digital clipping. Then it starts making ticking and popping noises.
For more information see:
http://www.av123.com/products_category_brand.php?section=processors&brand=2
William
the P3-A is the DAC. The P1-A is a digital enhancer. Reclocks and "enhances". You can switch off the enhancment mode but usually it sounds better with it. The only thing it can´t stand is digital clipping. Then it starts making ticking and popping noises.
For more information see:
http://www.av123.com/products_category_brand.php?section=processors&brand=2
William
Hi,
after living for a while with the unregulated power supply for the x-bosoz output stage I finally managed to make a regulated one. It´s quite simple with just a few caps, zeners and IRF610/9619 like the standard bosoz.
The only thing I changed is that I doubled up the fets (just paralleled them) to have a sort of double mono configuration.
It works fine and puts out +44 and -23volts (the x-bosoz has a current source).
I wasn´t really expecting much of a difference soundwise but it turned out to be a worthwhile upgrade. Somehow the frequency extremes are a bit lifted and the sound is more clear (less romantic?). Placement of singers is also a bit better.
Here´s a picture.
William
after living for a while with the unregulated power supply for the x-bosoz output stage I finally managed to make a regulated one. It´s quite simple with just a few caps, zeners and IRF610/9619 like the standard bosoz.
The only thing I changed is that I doubled up the fets (just paralleled them) to have a sort of double mono configuration.
It works fine and puts out +44 and -23volts (the x-bosoz has a current source).
I wasn´t really expecting much of a difference soundwise but it turned out to be a worthwhile upgrade. Somehow the frequency extremes are a bit lifted and the sound is more clear (less romantic?). Placement of singers is also a bit better.
Here´s a picture.
William
Attachments
Nice
I really like that you did all this with hand soldering of components to perfboard. I am in the process of changing my hand made BOSOZ to a Kari-PCB based X-CCS-BOSOZ, and it just doesn't feel like DIY anymore with those nice looking pcbs.
I think after I deplete my supply of group buy boards for the next few projects, its going to be back to basics like what you have there.
Question- where are the big 10uf+++ output caps?
I really like that you did all this with hand soldering of components to perfboard. I am in the process of changing my hand made BOSOZ to a Kari-PCB based X-CCS-BOSOZ, and it just doesn't feel like DIY anymore with those nice looking pcbs.
I think after I deplete my supply of group buy boards for the next few projects, its going to be back to basics like what you have there.
Question- where are the big 10uf+++ output caps?
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