The female connectors that slip over the spades have a small bump that makes hem almost impossible to remove unless you use pliers to pull off or push the locking bump flat prior to insertion. This is not on all connectors. I wonder if this is what is used to make it more reliable for uses where you don't expect to pull it off again.
Just use deans plugs.
They are much better than spade connectors.
Gold plated copper, with incorporated spring for very good contact.
Spades are terrible.
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With a high quality brand spade connector (TE Connectivity/Faston) the connection quality is excellent with spade connectors. They are much lower profile than Deans connectors and less expensive too.
I might start using the ones that use a crimp tool that clamps the wire as well as the insulation for great strain relief.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_DS_1-1773910-5_4p8_Ser_FASTON_Rec_Multi_Tab_021-1099709.pdf
I might start using the ones that use a crimp tool that clamps the wire as well as the insulation for great strain relief.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_DS_1-1773910-5_4p8_Ser_FASTON_Rec_Multi_Tab_021-1099709.pdf
Hi xrk971,
I use these often in aerospace applications. There are a lot of connection methods that are worse, but my personal preference is the insulated AMP(amphenol) connectors. They hold up better to vibration (probably not an issue for you). They also offer isolation, and in my opinion, they crimp easier/ better. Take my opinion for what it's worth
. Edit: you can buy die sets for most terminal crimpers that will crimp the insulation separately from the wire.
Cheers,
Tim
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Positive Lock connectors (spades with a click). Check this video out:
Positive Lock Receptacles and Housings Overview | TE Connectivity
Positive Lock Receptacles and Housings Overview | TE Connectivity
OK, but really it's a lot more fun to try a new transistor or a new topology
than to obsess about details.
Exactly, which is why I like a PSU with female spade connectors on wires and PCBs (with new transistors or topologies to try) with male spade connectors so that I can swap out new amp boards quickly and easily. This is how I have been doing it with over 2 dozen amps from SS Forum. Then I get to the cool Class A amps in this Forum and am stopped nearly dead in my tracks every time I want to swap a board out.
Just use an inline connector, it doesn't need to be mounted on the board, that is why I suggested the deans plugs.
It might be higher mass than spades, but it's a lot lower mass than some binding posts.
It's also gold plated copper as opposed to nickel plated steel of the spade.
Patrick would have a heart attack of using steel connectors. Hehehehe
My spades and matching female connectors are always silver or some other silvery metal on copper. Never had a steel one. You can tell because if you solder them too long the silver comes off and you see the copper underneath (also visible if you cut it with cutters).
I see that in-line connectors can work, but that still doesn't help the strain on the solder joint from a dangling wire.
Some people have a heart attack if I don't match my output MOSFETs, let alone use steel connectors.
Speaking of steel, the cheap 1/4w 1% metal film resistors from China ($2 for set of 1000 etc), all use steel leads. I can tell because leads stick to my tools via magnetization.
I see that in-line connectors can work, but that still doesn't help the strain on the solder joint from a dangling wire.
Some people have a heart attack if I don't match my output MOSFETs, let alone use steel connectors.
Speaking of steel, the cheap 1/4w 1% metal film resistors from China ($2 for set of 1000 etc), all use steel leads. I can tell because leads stick to my tools via magnetization.
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