Make fly-leads off boards with spades to suit your application, others will do what makes them warm and fuzzy.
Sure man, but who the hell is buying components from china for his audio device, especially at that price ???
check at Mouser , you won't find them anyhow ...
as Mr Pass said , lets try different Transistors or topology , but unfortunately , few guys around the world are able to do that , and i am not one off them
most off them prefer playing with their ignorance , as i do too
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#64
point could be taken after few posts
wires directly for old farts , spades for convenience of young ones
so , who cares ?
I'm certainly not wasting time re-soldering or re-quenching or re-pulling wires
if done properly , there is certainly no best way - do what you like more
point could be taken after few posts
wires directly for old farts , spades for convenience of young ones
so , who cares ?
I'm certainly not wasting time re-soldering or re-quenching or re-pulling wires
if done properly , there is certainly no best way - do what you like more
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The video of the connectors you are in love with, that you posted above are nickel plated steel.
That's what I was commenting on.
As I recall, you said as much to xrk in another thread in the Pass forum, where he asked the same question as in this thread. I think pico weighed in as well. Not sure why we need an entire thread to debate personal preference for connection type when the question was satisfactorily answered (at least for me) in the other thread.
For me, the obvious answer to the question "Why doesn't anyone in the Pass forum seem to use spades?" is that many of the users who build these amps are new builders who use the DIY Store boards, which don't offer spade mounting as an option. Why spades are not offered as a connection option on those boards is a question for the PCB designer of each, and not for us.
@Picodumbs: TE Connectivity / AMP Faston's are made of tin-plated brass in general, for their harsh environment connectors rated to 250C are made of nickel plated steel. The 0.187in to 0.250in connectors, regardless of material is rated for 10amps continuous with 16ga wire.
http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...ERMINALS_-_FULL_CATALOG&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
@Needtubes: Yes, I did post this inside the BFJ thread, and you are right, it was responded to by both (and only) ZM and PD, who both, as I can see, have made it very clear that thy are "Spade Haters," and reiterate their sentiments here. What I wanted to see was a wider sample of opinion in the Pass Forum, and I think from the number of responses here, there is a wide variation of opinions and responses, many of which are opposite of Pico and ZM. Even Mr Pass has said he has no issue with them and uses them when they are already provided (such as on monlithic diode bridges etc.). He prefers to use solder connection to PCBs, and that is fine.
http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...ERMINALS_-_FULL_CATALOG&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
@Needtubes: Yes, I did post this inside the BFJ thread, and you are right, it was responded to by both (and only) ZM and PD, who both, as I can see, have made it very clear that thy are "Spade Haters," and reiterate their sentiments here. What I wanted to see was a wider sample of opinion in the Pass Forum, and I think from the number of responses here, there is a wide variation of opinions and responses, many of which are opposite of Pico and ZM. Even Mr Pass has said he has no issue with them and uses them when they are already provided (such as on monlithic diode bridges etc.). He prefers to use solder connection to PCBs, and that is fine.
Yeah I'm a spade hater, and both ZM and I have nothing against other people using spades it's a personal choice.
However the existing pcbs don't offer spades so I offered a practical solution of using in line connectors to the existing pcbs that are available in the diyaudio store. You are free to come up with an alternative solution.
I have seen 6L6 use screw terminals that fit some of the pcbs.
However the existing pcbs don't offer spades so I offered a practical solution of using in line connectors to the existing pcbs that are available in the diyaudio store. You are free to come up with an alternative solution.
I have seen 6L6 use screw terminals that fit some of the pcbs.
at that price from known brand , no way ...
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Many, many things are sourced from China by Mouser or Digikey as that is where the manufacturing facility is located. They say where the parts are from in their packing list and invoice and certify it with a signed certificate of compliance. That's one of the things we get for paying extra from Mouser/Digikey - to know where it comes from and with a signed statement from a company official.
But just because a part comes from China doesn't make it inferior quality.
On my quick and dirty amp builds, I often use common parts sourced from China for several "$ a bag". It works for me as build a lot of amps and it would cost a small fortune to use all Mills resistors for the 30 amps I have made. I use quality parts sourced from Mouser or Digikey for critical parts like input caps (Wima) or audio electrolytics (Elna Silmic, Nichicon AK's, Panasonic FR, FM, FC, OSCON, etc.). On high power source resistors, I am now switching to Panasonic metal thin film 3w's that seem to be used in this Forum. I think they get a lot of heat stress so think that is a good choice. But for a typical small signal resistor say 220R to 1M and 1/8 w to 1/4w - is there a big difference in sound quality between a $0.56 Mills vs a $2 for a bag of 1000? I think there is a bigger difference in metal thin film vs carbon composition and I use carbons on some direct audio paths around the input stage, or gate stoppers.
For many of my amps that I design and do layout on, I now use SMT almost exclusively and there, a roll of 1000 SMT 1% 0805 resistors is so low cost it doesn't make sense to get them from China directly, but rather through Mouser
Think about the electrons flow in your audio signal circuit.
Solder connections are fusion melt.
Not mechanical contact of two metals with spades or the screws.
From your RCA ,XLR input to the pcb copper track and from pcb copper track output to the speakers outputs
all path is "mix" together 100 % copper and solder.
Not aluminium or steel are used.
Mechanical contact degrade audio quality because electrons need "jumps " from one side to another
and not travel naturaly inside like in two melt metals pieces.
Even how NASA high quality tight gold plated copper they are we get always microscopic gap between two contact surfaces.
That is the reason for all audio purposes clean soldering 100 % copper connections give you the higher quality sound.
No need to be an expert in quantum mechanic or audiophile eccentric
YouTube
Kindest regards
Solder connections are fusion melt.
Not mechanical contact of two metals with spades or the screws.
From your RCA ,XLR input to the pcb copper track and from pcb copper track output to the speakers outputs
all path is "mix" together 100 % copper and solder.
Not aluminium or steel are used.
Mechanical contact degrade audio quality because electrons need "jumps " from one side to another
and not travel naturaly inside like in two melt metals pieces.
Even how NASA high quality tight gold plated copper they are we get always microscopic gap between two contact surfaces.
That is the reason for all audio purposes clean soldering 100 % copper connections give you the higher quality sound.
No need to be an expert in quantum mechanic or audiophile eccentric
YouTube
Kindest regards
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I don't think anyone will dispute that a good solder joint is better electrical connection than many connectors. But note that most solder is tin and lead, not the best electrical conductors compared to a spring loaded metal-to-metal contact of say gold-gold like on high reliability PCB board interconnects used by NASA.
For DIY though, where one likes to swap out lots of different amp boards but using only one heatsink/case and PSU - soldered wires are not the most convenient. In this swapping application, I would argue that the *Best* connection is not needed. I would gladly give up the best connection for a good connection that is easy to work with and doesn't pull solder pads off my PCB.
For DIY though, where one likes to swap out lots of different amp boards but using only one heatsink/case and PSU - soldered wires are not the most convenient. In this swapping application, I would argue that the *Best* connection is not needed. I would gladly give up the best connection for a good connection that is easy to work with and doesn't pull solder pads off my PCB.
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Of course they do. With more and more things being made in China, what do you expect?
Do you think Mouser has a "No Part Made in China" policy when they purchase their components?? Let's get realistic here.
By the way, I'm glad to see you got rid of the Boy George avatar.
Boy George and Culture Club tends to let one's imagination run wild.
Now...let's bust out the whiskey and soldering iron and build something!
Best of luck and Merry Christmas!
Yeah, if you play the game of swap out many amp's pcbs in only one chassis
that spade connector or screws (have seen in your headphone amp) is the temporary solution.
NASA gold-gold connectors is TOP SECRET available only on the Moon haha
If new pcb design have two alternative possibility's with solder "forever" circuit node's all is fine.
The problem is if I have non choice so i do not use such pcb's in audio electronic hobby. Greetings
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Gotcha, someone else (or was it you?) thought it was Boy George. Must have been you, too much of a coincidence
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