How to build the F5

[6L6]

...Well, this thread will be how I build mine.

Nothing out of the ordinary, Peter Daniel boards, single transformer, Tech-DIY transistors and other bits, HiFi2000 chassis.

I have collected all the pieces and finally today the chassis arrived from Italy! I am ready to start!




Here is the obligatory "armory" photo. Only one of the amp channels shown.


The rear panel. I thought I ordered an Inlet Module with a switch, but I didn't read the datasheet well enough, and it has a neon light power indicator instead. Oh well. Luckily I have a couple of nice bat-handeled switches, I will use one here. The Jacks and RCAs are also from my box, I think they are Vampire.


Here are the contents of the Tech-DIY F5 kits, the Peter Daniel's boards, and a couple of silpads. I also have micas and grease, I will most likely use those.


The PSU components. Vishay rectifier blocks, Peter Daniel PSU board, resistors, 33,000uf capacitors, CL-60 thermistors, and a big-honkin' 600VA transformer.

When I was determining the transformer size necessary I must have had a brain-sneeze, I must have only thought of one secondary! Oh well, it was only $20 more than the 'proper' (400VA) size. The 4-pin caps will work on the board with just a bit of modification.


If you were wondering, the Peter Daniel boards are very small. Also very nice!

That's it for now, I will post more photos as I progress.

[Nelson Pass]

Well there you have it.

[6L6]

Originally Posted by Nelson Pass

Well there you have it.

Not quite yet. Gimme a little time...

[Marra]

Good luck with the build you'll enjoy it went its finished. Mine has been in use for the past couple of days and to be quite honest has been worth the effort; sounds pretty good. I was expecting to have to turn my DCB1 up to max after using an Aleph 5 but the difference in setting is minimal.
HiFi 2000 make good kit don't they. I used there front; top and base panels with sinks sourced in the UK; should just have bought one of there full kits.
Setting the trim pots threw me to start with; I had'nt realised that there interaction would be so intimate.

[Andy5112405]

You've obviously put a lot of thought into the choice of components and the case. Why use such an agricultural ON/OFF switch ?

I've got a similar thread running with my F4 build. Even though my ON/OFF switch is hidden at the back of the amplifier I have taken a bit of trouble to make it look nice.

The rear view

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/594/dscf2361c.jpg

I used a Personal Computer ON/OFF push switch that will cope with the high transient currents of massive Toroidal Transformers.

This is the case before painting and filling.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/82/dscf2363p.jpg

[6L6]

Originally Posted by Andy5112405

You've obviously put a lot of thought into the choice of components and the case. Why use such an agricultural ON/OFF switch ?

Well... I'm actually not married to using that switch. It does have a very nice feel, however. And it will be on the back, so nobody will ever see it.

I wouldn't mind a blue-ringed flush pushbutton, but I haven't the foggiest notion of where to find one. That would look nice on the front panel.

And, when it's all said and done, the switching will be done on a power conditioner, not the amp itself. So having the switch in back (which was always the plan, even with the Inlet Module) will not be an issue.

[Andy5112405]

Have a look at http://www.rs_online.com. They do a very nice line in illuminated push switches. The Pass Amps and their hefty power supplies need a meaty ON/OFF switch. My F4 is using 2 x 500VA transformers which need a decent 10A 240V switch.

[michal]

Originally Posted by 6L6

I wouldn't mind a blue-ringed flush pushbutton, but I haven't the foggiest notion of where to find one.

Try eBay, plenty there, but expensive...

Originally Posted by 6L6

And, when it's all said and done, the switching will be done on a power conditioner, not the amp itself.

Are you switching more than 1 power hungry device with the power conditioner? Watch out for in-rush current. You can try using older style under CRT monitor power managers, that have dedicated switch per outlet.

I see you are not a big fan of fuses...

Going to be a nice looking build.

[Zen Mod]

same case ,different amp ; few pics - maybe some of these will be useful

Babelfish J za hifish-a - diyaudio.rs

[6L6]

Originally Posted by michal

Are you switching more than 1 power hungry device with the power conditioner? Watch out for in-rush current.

Actually, if you put one big draw on the main switch, and the other big draw on a timed switch (which my conditioner has) it's not a problem.

I see you are not a big fan of fuses...

I see that you are not familiar with fused power inlet modules...

Going to be a nice looking build.

Thanks, I am hoping so!