Looking good!!!
Great choice with the Chipamp.com PSU board, it is practically perfect to make the unregulated supply shown in the article. Don't forget to jumper the GND rail together.
Remember to run the wires against the chassis for best noise performance. I was stunned how much of a difference that made in mine.
Hopefully we can get some better photos of the project? And of the cute dog?
Great choice with the Chipamp.com PSU board, it is practically perfect to make the unregulated supply shown in the article. Don't forget to jumper the GND rail together.
Remember to run the wires against the chassis for best noise performance. I was stunned how much of a difference that made in mine.
Hopefully we can get some better photos of the project? And of the cute dog?
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AD looks like spoiled brat.
Curious me, what did you use for power connection between the two cases ?
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Yes he is very spoiled. I'm using XLR connectors. These particular ones are made by switchcraft. I will post some better pictures.
Here are some additional pics. Best I can do, sorry did not take any during construction.
Attachments
Thanks, I agree its a great phono stage. Its so quiet that at first I thought it was not working until I lowered the needle to the vinyl. I may dress up the fronts with something in the lower corners such as Pearl 2 and Pearl 2 PS. The shield in the signal wires are floating. I would like to thank you for sharing your photo journal of your build. Sometimes it helps to see a picture of what is being talked about.
Right back at ya!
More photos, more builds, more information on how to do it right! It's all helpful and very, very welcome. These threads are what it's all about, and with enough illustration (and your photos are great!) fewer people will have questions and more people will decide to build.
SLS? Do you mean me?
Anyway, it's a .1uf Dayton that I had laying around. I think they are inteded for speaker crossovers. It's a fantastic cap for the money. Use whatever decent film cap you want or have on hand, as the Silmic (a part very consciously specifier by the designer) sitting in position C13 is doing the bulk of the work.
Anyway, it's a .1uf Dayton that I had laying around. I think they are inteded for speaker crossovers. It's a fantastic cap for the money. Use whatever decent film cap you want or have on hand, as the Silmic (a part very consciously specifier by the designer) sitting in position C13 is doing the bulk of the work.
Jim
Mine has a dull click rather than a low frequency thump. It,s low and not to bothersome to me. It does it going up or down. Best to leave it on all the time and not worry about it. It runs cool all time buttoned up anyway.
I have a CRC with 60K per channel of the PS along with the 10K on the board and consider this maybe the reason.
After 20 minutes or so the DCO stays put to .1 mv with no wandering BTW
Those of you that see wild swings of output, use the averaging range of your DVM or 10 ohm resistor mentioned somewhere in the posts to load it somewhat.
The secret mute button might help those thumps in the night if you don't leave it on all the time
Regards
David
Mine has a dull click rather than a low frequency thump. It,s low and not to bothersome to me. It does it going up or down. Best to leave it on all the time and not worry about it. It runs cool all time buttoned up anyway.
I have a CRC with 60K per channel of the PS along with the 10K on the board and consider this maybe the reason.
After 20 minutes or so the DCO stays put to .1 mv with no wandering BTW
Those of you that see wild swings of output, use the averaging range of your DVM or 10 ohm resistor mentioned somewhere in the posts to load it somewhat.
The secret mute button might help those thumps in the night if you don't leave it on all the time
Regards
David
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I'd like to add sockets to mine so I can swap out loading resistors and caps, and change the gain for MM vs. MC. I ordered these 510-AG90D-10 TE Connectivity / AMP IC & Component Sockets
but the opening is a bit too small. Does anyone have recommendations for more suitable ones?
but the opening is a bit too small. Does anyone have recommendations for more suitable ones?