Get the Vishay from Digi-Key.
Do you have a part number? There are so many 1uf Vishay caps. I bought the vishay resistors already.
Do you have a part number?
You've already got it... 😀😀😀
BC2076-ND
BFC241671005 Vishay BC Components | Capacitors | DigiKey
And for the 10uF, here's a perfect part also from digikey, it's always nice to source from the same supplier.
C4GADUC5100AA1J Kemet | Capacitors | DigiKey
You've already got it... 😀😀😀
BC2076-ND
BFC241671005 Vishay BC Components | Capacitors | DigiKey
And for the 10uF, here's a perfect part also from digikey, it's always nice to source from the same supplier.
C4GADUC5100AA1J Kemet | Capacitors | DigiKey
Oh do, didn't realize that was Vishay hah. Thanks.
As far as the 10uf I already had purchased these a few months ago and installed them:

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Got all the parts ordered from Digikey today. Really looking forward to getting this thing going. I am assuming the 24V DC switching wall wart power supply in the Digikey BOM will be just fine as Nelson Pass says the circuit it really good at ignoring the noise of it. Using 10,000 uf caps for C1 and C2, so I hope this is okay. I can always make a 24V linear power supply with some nice caps in it at a later date for this, if needed.
The on-board filtering will remove any noise (of which there will be very, very little) of the laptop brick.
There is little compelling reason to make a linear in lieu of the brick, other than it's fun to build stuff...
There is little compelling reason to make a linear in lieu of the brick, other than it's fun to build stuff...
Yes, or even one buffer preceded by a volume control for one output only,
the other being a straight pass through.
😎
the other being a straight pass through.
😎
Here is my build so far guys. I'll be adding two more pairs of input rca's as the grayhill rotary switch up front is 4 position. The chipboard will be going and replaced with standoffs and there will be a metal backplate for the power covering the hole.
As you can see I have two outputs. I simply split it off the normal pcb connection points.
AndrewT suggested I added a 1K ohm resistor for each additional output. I think I am almost clear what to do, but want to make sure I will be doing it right.
Does this look right for adding another output?

As you can see I have two outputs. I simply split it off the normal pcb connection points.
AndrewT suggested I added a 1K ohm resistor for each additional output. I think I am almost clear what to do, but want to make sure I will be doing it right.
Does this look right for adding another output?

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This is my version of the B1. The pcb's are homemade with Eagle, a laser printer and some paint.
Cheers...
Wow! Could you please share Eagle files?
Wow! Could you please share Eagle files?
Of course...
Attachments
Looks fine.
😎
That's helpful for me.....now what if I want 3 or 4 outputs? (Active horn builds getting crazy 😀)
How close do the jfets need to be matched, would one having an IDSS of 10ma and another of 11ma be close enough ? And in that case would it be best to use the 10ma part as the curent sink or the output device ?
How close do the jfets need to be matched...
Use the 10ma part as the curent sink.
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