F5 power amplifier

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Turbo and similar supercharging, usually means more air and fuel input resulting in more torque.

In an engine, the increased output pressure feeds back into more input pressure.
I see turbo in our domain as a kind of feed-forward, or positive feedback. Think bootstrap or Quad 405. Also some tube amplifiers like MacIntosh C22 had a positive feedback loop between anodes and cathodes. An interesting turbo configuration has been mentioned for a tube output, where a cathode resistor connects to the gate of a high-voltage FET device - as the 300B ran into e.g. 200 mA, the increased cathode voltage opens the FET - implying a partially decoupled cathode of course.

What I could expect here is some merge of F5 and BA-3/BA#2 typology. For instance, some extra output devices that only kick in after some threshold in current is reached.
Just thinking - For fun: instead of having the limiter output from Q5/Q6 LIMIT the drive voltage to the output FETs Q3/Q4, have that DRIVE a BA#2 push-pull output stage. So the LIMITER becomes a BOOSTER.

But we wouldn't have to stop here:

In such a topology, it might be possible to insert a small resistance between the two output stages I think, it's value being trial & error.

What I am thinking about: A variable feedback differentiation was also once used in a Kaneda amplifier, where a potmeter of 100 ohms was used to change the amount of coupling between the output of the driver stage & the push-pull output. It has impact on the damping. (A positive influence, for many loudspeakers, less is more - less damping more enjoyable). In such a config the closed loop amplification stays the same, the output impedance differs.

And hence: you can dial in more "BA-3/BA#2 style sound" versus "F5" sound.

albert

Background on Kaneda design: 'Un amplificateur classe A 50W+50W, 1re partie: conception générale, P. Johannet & W. Walther, L'Audiophile, No. 43, 1988
 
As long as we are making the automotive analogy, you might want a bigger cooling system... :)

I am ready for it as you and Can Am Man say and looking forward for this new one

As long as electricity price stay as it is, great, but realy hope it will no need petrol as 20 miles gallon on byturbo car is realy hurting already.

300X400x83 sinks just begghin to get hot.

PS (big secret) cost about £50 each + P&P and anodising cost:D
+ heat spreaders and 20 hours hand lapping and such.

Came from small firm in Italy (do not even know how credit card or Paypall works)
But can send invoice copy to selcted few if you ask.
 

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Drill press fine for pilots then Just makita with piece of string as plumb bob.

Drilling copper is a right pain as it binds to blades and bits so yess Cee Vee is right.
(but then somebody that never done it would say that it is easy peasy)

If you got no drill press (she would go balistic if she see such a thing) get extra loads of decent drill bits and then duble up on that.

So a really realy orrible and boring and frustrating Job (about 20 hours just for heath spreders) but hey not getting paid to do such athing so yess give us same more.


PS I have so far mounted a few sets of Mosfets and still have not stripped a tread on the sinks. worth it?

IMO yess
 
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:cool:A drill press is really usefull because you can go down to very low speeds and still have decent torque to cut....and you can control pressure on the copper surface better.

It's the same problem with aluminium, just worse in copper because it heats up quicker.

Problem is that material becomes soft if not cooled and then the bit sticks and/or breaks.

So it is absolutely essential to keep material cool and harder for a decent cut.

Dremel is not a good idea because speed it too high, the bigger drill presses are much slower.

In my CNC i get arround this using cutting bits with only one cutting face, same as alu, this prevents soft material from stricking between cutting faces and seizing the bit.

Since there are no drill bits with only one face.....use slower speed.
 
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:DSorry maybe wrong place to post this but realy ticle my funny bone.

On tomorow daily rags classified...

New Girlfriend wanted.
Must own a CNC machine and tooling
Please send picture of the CNC machine.

Drill press would be also considered provided is a newer hardly used model.:D

On a more serious note

This is DIY no flipping power tools or bits bought from IKEA alowed:cubist:
 
Course it is provided those are used for totaly different purposes than what they vhere made for and that when you are ready to give up for the day you got few bruises burnt finghers or bleading somevhere.

So no going about braghin I made that whitout even reading the instruction braghin about.

I got same old XO botletops that will do nicely as Volume and imput selector Knobs (IMO that is alowd) when and if I get the bit to make a decent PRE
 
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Well by now you should know that I am jooking.
:D

If you got one You luky R&D
Just use the wretched thing and show off will you.

I am not alowed to get one because
1 loft ceiling will fall off.
2 I will certanly get cougt while triing to smugle the thing upstairs in bits.
3 To chiiken to face the musik once cought
4 It will make to much noise so I will certanly get cought.

Just be nice and post pictures of your CNC so I could hate you even more:D:D