The previous batch he was selling (12,000uf/63V, I believe) were 2002 vintage, these he is currently selling are 2011 40th week. Chances are excellent the 2002 vintage are legitimate (if you are counterfeiting, why put an old date on them), the newer ones I would perhaps say entail some risk of being counterfeit, but I don't think they are.
As others have said, ELNA is not necessary, I like the Nichicon KMH, which are reported to sometimes be counterfeit, but are available from reputable sources.
The older larger filter caps like this are usually 10mm pitch, but you do need to check and make sure, if they are off (let's say 12mm), they will be harder to put in, becomes a much more involved replacement.
As others have said, ELNA is not necessary, I like the Nichicon KMH, which are reported to sometimes be counterfeit, but are available from reputable sources.
The older larger filter caps like this are usually 10mm pitch, but you do need to check and make sure, if they are off (let's say 12mm), they will be harder to put in, becomes a much more involved replacement.
If you do buy smaller caps in order to make up 8000uF (or so) they normally come with wire leads. Its easy to build them into a group and make you own pin out.
3 x 3300uF or 4 x 2200uF mounted onto a ring.
This is how the counterfeitters do it, you can go one better by using good quality caps.
3 x 3300uF or 4 x 2200uF mounted onto a ring.
This is how the counterfeitters do it, you can go one better by using good quality caps.
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Did you even look at the picture?
Look at the gold stripe on the real one, now look at the grainy gold strip on the fake one.
Now look at the grainy gold stripe on your new fake Elnas.
Notice how the picture wants to show you the Elna vent, just so you think "Yep that's an Elna vent"
He implies that he his a legit member here selling a few caps, however post #3 SCREAMS Asian eBayer, the attempt at a fancy price vs country shipping chart.
If you read his other posts, at least %80 of them are related to capacitors. Hmm.
Indonesia is worse then China for fake items.
You have a better chance getting a real item from China, as they actually make real items there, they are a huge manufacturing country.
Never buy anything from Indonesia, Credit Card fraud is a sport in that country.
You have a better chance buying from Nigeria.
Cheers, enjoy your fake caps, although I'm sure I'm talking to Pocoyo and not "Mark" from Ireland.
Lets see how long it takes you to post a picture of this Pioneer amp, with yourself, in Ireland.
Google "10.000uf 80v elna", you can't find a real one.
Besides a 10.000uf 80v would be larger then that. That appears to be a ~4700uf 50v sized cap.
The only results I got where his failed attempts at other forums. Another Fake Capacitor ~ HobbyAudio.Com
At least he got the colour right this time.
Besides a 10.000uf 80v would be larger then that. That appears to be a ~4700uf 50v sized cap.
The only results I got where his failed attempts at other forums. Another Fake Capacitor ~ HobbyAudio.Com
At least he got the colour right this time.
@DreadPirate, I am not 100% about 10mm pitch as i would need to disassemble the unit to see the bottom of the circuit board. I have attached a screen shot from the service manual i found which confirmed they are two pins, and closly spaced together.
@GloBug, your concerns are noted. I am not Pocoyo, just a regular guy trying to fix his amp and learn something along the way. And no i'm not going to post a cheesy picture of me with my amp, a pic of the inside will have to do I have not had any response from Pocoyo yet, but his add seems to imply he only has one which is not of any use to me, need two matching ones.
It seems from all my searching 63v and 100v are the norms, and finding two pin snap in style of that voltage is rare too. Found a few hits googling parts but nobody has any in stock, or will only accept orders in large quantitys.
I have found a few on HiFiCollective that they stock, but some custom mounting and wiring would be needed to fit them as i would need the lug style.
Nichicon KG type electrolytic capacitors homepage
They also suggested measuring the voltage to see what actually run at as 63v might be an option.
Mundorf M-lytic AG Capacitors homepage
Is there anything to be aware of if i do relocate the caps and just wire them back into the circuit board. Any specific type or wire to use, does the length of the wire make any difference?
@GloBug, your concerns are noted. I am not Pocoyo, just a regular guy trying to fix his amp and learn something along the way. And no i'm not going to post a cheesy picture of me with my amp, a pic of the inside will have to do I have not had any response from Pocoyo yet, but his add seems to imply he only has one which is not of any use to me, need two matching ones.
It seems from all my searching 63v and 100v are the norms, and finding two pin snap in style of that voltage is rare too. Found a few hits googling parts but nobody has any in stock, or will only accept orders in large quantitys.
I have found a few on HiFiCollective that they stock, but some custom mounting and wiring would be needed to fit them as i would need the lug style.
Nichicon KG type electrolytic capacitors homepage
They also suggested measuring the voltage to see what actually run at as 63v might be an option.
Mundorf M-lytic AG Capacitors homepage
Is there anything to be aware of if i do relocate the caps and just wire them back into the circuit board. Any specific type or wire to use, does the length of the wire make any difference?
Attachments
Use as short and thick off wire as possible.
That might be your best bet if your not concerned about keeping a factory look.
Take a peek at the bottom of the circuit board, you might be able to "twist" the capacitor holes and change the width if you need to.(Drill new holes) Then just run or add the leads to the original holes.
That might be your best bet if your not concerned about keeping a factory look.
Take a peek at the bottom of the circuit board, you might be able to "twist" the capacitor holes and change the width if you need to.(Drill new holes) Then just run or add the leads to the original holes.
Playing along, why would they put fuzzy print on the wrapper to raise suspicion? Counterfeiters are surely capable of making perfectly printed wrappers. On the other hand, I've gotten genuine Silmic caps from mouser with much worse print than that. Maybe they are making fuzzy, counterfeit looking wrappers to appear more genuine...
@DreadPirate, I am not 100% about 10mm pitch as i would need to disassemble the unit to see the bottom of the circuit board. I have attached a screen shot from the service manual i found which confirmed they are two pins, and closly spaced together.
You are going to have to disassemble to install the new caps, whether at this location or remotely, so get to it. The easyist, cleanest is to drop in new ones in the old location, you will find matching lead pitches. You can also go with 100V which will give you more choices than 80V, though Panasonic does have caps in this value at 80V with 10mm and 22mm pitches.
I just re-read your post about the cap "dome-ing" on the top. Press it down, if it gives, it just the plastic top cover deforming. This is probably the "problem" and you don't need to do anything. Are you getting 60Hz hum through the speakers?
As far as measuring the actual voltage to see if you can go with a lower value voltage cap, you will find these manufacturers don't usually overspec their components, 80V or 100V replacements are the way to go.
You are going to have to disassemble to install the new caps, whether at this location or remotely, so get to it. The easyist, cleanest is to drop in new ones in the old location, you will find matching lead pitches. You can also go with 100V which will give you more choices than 80V, though Panasonic does have caps in this value at 80V with 10mm and 22mm pitches.
I just re-read your post about the cap "dome-ing" on the top. Press it down, if it gives, it just the plastic top cover deforming. This is probably the "problem" and you don't need to do anything. Are you getting 60Hz hum through the speakers?
As far as measuring the actual voltage to see if you can go with a lower value voltage cap, you will find these manufacturers don't usually overspec their components, 80V or 100V replacements are the way to go.
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Hi Mcandmar, can you post the dimentions of the current caps. Diameter is going to be crucial with the close spacing. also the max height that you could get away with would be good (as there may be additional room available above the current caps).
This Capacitors_Electrolytic_DNM whilst not cheap might be an option. The nichicon KG 10,000uF 80V are huge and they are not snapin (I have 8 of them that I need to cram into an amp). They are also available at parts connexion at a much more reasonable price of $19.95 each, If they will physically fit, then the ones I linked to definitely would, and would be an easier and cleaner option.
Tony.
This Capacitors_Electrolytic_DNM whilst not cheap might be an option. The nichicon KG 10,000uF 80V are huge and they are not snapin (I have 8 of them that I need to cram into an amp). They are also available at parts connexion at a much more reasonable price of $19.95 each, If they will physically fit, then the ones I linked to definitely would, and would be an easier and cleaner option.
Tony.
Alright, caps are 30x50mm, max height availble is ~75-80mm. Also confirmed they are 10mm snap in pin format.
Those DNM jobbies are the closent fit yet, but they are very tall and 5mm wider, and a little on the pricy side. The dimensions seem just a tad too much each way.
The Nichicon KG seem to be the ticket, At this stage i may as well just buy lug terminal style and run jumper wires back to the main board. I noticed they have two 10,000uF 80V in the catalog, 50x80 Type II (Gold Tune), and 63x80 Type III (Super Through). Only difference i can see is a higher ripple current on the larger cap. Which do i choose, or do i let my wallet decide?
Those DNM jobbies are the closent fit yet, but they are very tall and 5mm wider, and a little on the pricy side. The dimensions seem just a tad too much each way.
The Nichicon KG seem to be the ticket, At this stage i may as well just buy lug terminal style and run jumper wires back to the main board. I noticed they have two 10,000uF 80V in the catalog, 50x80 Type II (Gold Tune), and 63x80 Type III (Super Through). Only difference i can see is a higher ripple current on the larger cap. Which do i choose, or do i let my wallet decide?
Low ESR, volume per can, reliability, and overall quality .... is usually on the side of the Panasonic capacitors, in my experience of having my eyes go bad from looking at too many spec sheets for many years. The Panasonic snap mounts are widely available for a good reason- they are very good.
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