i started the building of DIY attenuator ,mechanism with
available parts at home
i always knew that the attenuator can be made with some
rotary arrangement.
But the roadblocks were ,
1) how to ensure durable contacts
2)how to make the rotary slider stay at a position
3) protecting from dust /impurities
4)how to exactly give contacts to moving rotary contact
5)keeping costs very low and avoiding machinery
i after a little thinking i have done little progress
adding plans and then pics
available parts at home
i always knew that the attenuator can be made with some
rotary arrangement.
But the roadblocks were ,
1) how to ensure durable contacts
2)how to make the rotary slider stay at a position
3) protecting from dust /impurities
4)how to exactly give contacts to moving rotary contact
5)keeping costs very low and avoiding machinery
i after a little thinking i have done little progress
adding plans and then pics
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
first pic depicts the back side of the assembly, here i have
added 23 IC socket pins taken out by breaking the socket.
each pin has 2 sides
1)sharp pin side
2)flat contact side
How to build the circular contacts:
Put pin side thru holes ,and solder on the other side,contact side is bent .
The pads (socket pins)are laid on a circular fashion to so that slider touches 1 contact at each stable position.
second pic shows the rotary click mechanism
although it looks complicated ,it is NOT.
click mechanism works with a sprocket wheel designed from a toothpaste cap(i am sure there are many cheap robotics wheels,tape mechanism wheels that can be used).
spring + piston
Here I house 1 tiny spring taken from DPDT switch,piston is a tiny plastic cube,outer shell is a piece of refill.All attached with super glue.
I will add picture to make it clear .
piston is
added 23 IC socket pins taken out by breaking the socket.
each pin has 2 sides
1)sharp pin side
2)flat contact side
How to build the circular contacts:
Put pin side thru holes ,and solder on the other side,contact side is bent .
The pads (socket pins)are laid on a circular fashion to so that slider touches 1 contact at each stable position.
second pic shows the rotary click mechanism
although it looks complicated ,it is NOT.
click mechanism works with a sprocket wheel designed from a toothpaste cap(i am sure there are many cheap robotics wheels,tape mechanism wheels that can be used).
spring + piston
Here I house 1 tiny spring taken from DPDT switch,piston is a tiny plastic cube,outer shell is a piece of refill.All attached with super glue.
I will add picture to make it clear .
piston is
When it comes to stepped attenuators, when changing volume, the contact breaks from one point and makes at another point during this break and make there will be "Glitch" or switching noise. how to avoid this and make a smooth transition.
One method would be using make before break mechanism, but these kind of switches are difficult to find, besides cost.
Any other ideas ?
One method would be using make before break mechanism, but these kind of switches are difficult to find, besides cost.
Any other ideas ?
Hello Sirs,
I do not know if this kind of device will respect your $10-budget but I want to show you some ideas :
http://www.novotone.be/index.php?op...cle&id=63:projet22&catid=26:projets&Itemid=34
But for sure, mechanical parts and PCB may not be so cheap. I hope it will help you !
Have a nice day !
I do not know if this kind of device will respect your $10-budget but I want to show you some ideas :
http://www.novotone.be/index.php?op...cle&id=63:projet22&catid=26:projets&Itemid=34
But for sure, mechanical parts and PCB may not be so cheap. I hope it will help you !
Have a nice day !
Thanks for the info.. ! its not about $10 , I posted here cause I did feel like creating another thread.
I have some idea about stepped Attenuators, But the issue is,
when there one changes volume, there will be disconnection and re-connection when switch contacts move from one point to another point, during this transition, there will be unwanted response in form of distortion, glitch, undesired effects .. what ever one may call..
It is possible to prevent this ???
I have some idea about stepped Attenuators, But the issue is,
when there one changes volume, there will be disconnection and re-connection when switch contacts move from one point to another point, during this transition, there will be unwanted response in form of distortion, glitch, undesired effects .. what ever one may call..
It is possible to prevent this ???
MaxS
thank you , it is very helpful . The PCB in india is very cheap approx 2$, including all the whole device will be
near 10$.
suds read the translated page
http://translate.google.com/transla...projets&Itemid=34&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=
the resistor pattern is cleverly laid to avoid that "glitch"
so floating contact while shifting is totally avoided .
I am poor at mechanical design, my tested sproket is
not durable enough.
Please suggest some reliable locking mechanism(mechanical part)
thank you , it is very helpful . The PCB in india is very cheap approx 2$, including all the whole device will be
near 10$.
suds read the translated page
http://translate.google.com/transla...projets&Itemid=34&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=
the resistor pattern is cleverly laid to avoid that "glitch"
so floating contact while shifting is totally avoided .
I am poor at mechanical design, my tested sproket is
not durable enough.
Please suggest some reliable locking mechanism(mechanical part)
found a mechanical part for steps
Ok after searcing and even building one teethed wheel
I decided to go with some already available spares,
I have found the 'mouse encoder'..see the small blue spare...will cost just 10 cents max, can be had from damaged mouse for free!
http://www.eehomepage.com/reports/20080214_teardown_pics/wheel_insitu_mid.jpg
to be a suitable device , highly reliable and smooth.However the encoder is just a stepping device..its electrical operation will not be used.
more pics:
attaching an wiper pcb contact will do i hope..
Ok after searcing and even building one teethed wheel
I decided to go with some already available spares,
I have found the 'mouse encoder'..see the small blue spare...will cost just 10 cents max, can be had from damaged mouse for free!
http://www.eehomepage.com/reports/20080214_teardown_pics/wheel_insitu_mid.jpg
to be a suitable device , highly reliable and smooth.However the encoder is just a stepping device..its electrical operation will not be used.
more pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
attaching an wiper pcb contact will do i hope..
Here's an interesting implementation -
DACT Type 21 Stepped Attenuator Potentiometer 100K 2A3 - eBay (item 120474000457 end time Oct-26-09 11:06:39 PDT)
DACT Type 21 Stepped Attenuator Potentiometer 100K 2A3 - eBay (item 120474000457 end time Oct-26-09 11:06:39 PDT)
I have seen that before also i have seen light speed attenuator ,Here's an interesting implementation -
DACT Type 21 Stepped Attenuator Potentiometer 100K 2A3 - eBay (item 120474000457 end time Oct-26-09 11:06:39 PDT)
i will use smd resistors and finally try to make a low cost.
In many countries ebay + shipping+ customs =2x price
Glowbug,
the encoder is a mechanical part,well tested for very reliable mouse scrolling,so steps are very reliable,
main cream of this DIY is... the rotary contact arrangement
2 PCBS one with slider,and one with static contacts,both wil be spring loaded to remain rock steady in contact..
I need ideas for this..
early stages may give some problems but i hope finally
will do well...
What about just use a row of switches, each one switching in twice the attenuation factor of the last?
I think it would be much easier to use a good digital potentiometer and a rotary encoder. The HP signal generators I use in my ECEN classes use that method to vary the amplitude and the signal shows up nice and clean on the oscilloscope even at its top limit of 15MHz, regardless of the output amplitude.
I think it would be much easier to use a good digital potentiometer and a rotary encoder. The HP signal generators I use in my ECEN classes use that method to vary the amplitude and the signal shows up nice and clean on the oscilloscope even at its top limit of 15MHz, regardless of the output amplitude.
Audio purists say any digital processing add coloration to sound,thatz why the stepped pots sell at 200$ .
else i have 1000 digital designs,some chips are even dedicated
vol- controllers made by reputed Mfrs...
row of switches no one will like unless it is some recording preamp
smooth rotating volume with steps is desirable in all hi-end equipments.
i would like to know more of your ideas ..do post some pics/description detail..
I need ideas for making rotary contacts,i can use wiper from a pot,
what material should i use for contacts?
make-before-break layout? etc
else i have 1000 digital designs,some chips are even dedicated
vol- controllers made by reputed Mfrs...
row of switches no one will like unless it is some recording preamp
smooth rotating volume with steps is desirable in all hi-end equipments.
i would like to know more of your ideas ..do post some pics/description detail..
I need ideas for making rotary contacts,i can use wiper from a pot,
what material should i use for contacts?
make-before-break layout? etc
at that price, $10 each + $5 postage, I'd recommend you buy two and test them.
You could tell us the resistor values used and what attenuation is achieved at each step when feeding a 50k Zin of a power amp.
there are many places for resi values : try this one
SDS Labs Java Stepped Attenuator Constructor's Page
if any one can give pics of opened
view of rotary switch contacts.. i will find easy for the diy
SDS Labs Java Stepped Attenuator Constructor's Page
if any one can give pics of opened
view of rotary switch contacts.. i will find easy for the diy
at that price, $10 each + $5 postage, I'd recommend you buy two and test them.
Don't need it now, else would have bought/tested.
Wouldn't have believed a few years ago, that one could get a $10 stepped
attenuator.
This part was recommended by someone a few
months ago, in the class D forum.
Hope whoever it was is reading this and can post the
step/resistor details.
The approach looks to be DIYable, using the pot shaft/wiper which
Kaushik is looking at.
Perhaps remove the part having the carbon track of the pot
and replace with your thin PCB with contacts pads arrange in a circle.
Use SMT resistors to keep it small, like the ebay chinese one.
Last edited:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
any one got pics like this. this is an unclear pic of encoder part.. i needed one of a rotary switch.
notes:
where people get 23 POS smooth rotary switch in 5$ they may not like to build this attenuator.
I'd be a little wary of the reliability of something like that, unless a bunch of people had good results with it for a while.
I've been using the 50k version of this SMD stepped attenuator, and it's been working very well in my integrated amplifier. It was a significant improvement over my amplifier's stock volume pot. I recommended this to a friend who installed one himself, and he agrees that the improvements were great. This is a nice stepped attenuator at this price. I'm sure DACT and Goldpoint SMD stepped attenuators are better, but at a much higher cost.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Plan is like this ( as in picture.)
I have refined the design and decided to use silver/tin rivets. The silver rivets will give better sonic perfomence.
There will be 2 PCBS , one carries wiper lever,one has riveted contacts and smd resistors.
The rivets will be close enough and wiper will do 'make-before-break'.
The encoder will help make the stepped rotation ,
the click click mechanical motion..
Q.What is the name of a riveted point if i give the PCB
for fabrication?
Q.can any one point to small silver/tin rivets that we can put in a home made pcb and solder with the smd resistors
You can get turrets and eyelets in various shapes and
sizes. You can rivet them in and sand it down to
a smooth and low profile.
Won't pads on the pcb suffice?
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sizes. You can rivet them in and sand it down to
a smooth and low profile.
Won't pads on the pcb suffice?
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