hi gentlemen,
just want to point your attention to a nice speakers
I could not resist and purchased 12" coaxial sammi sound
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=299-766
after a week of playing on the floor without the box I put it in temporary enclosure
sound excelent, highly recommended!
/I will still work on crossover, horn tweeter is overpowering woofer, nothing attenuator can not cure/
just want to point your attention to a nice speakers
I could not resist and purchased 12" coaxial sammi sound
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=299-766
after a week of playing on the floor without the box I put it in temporary enclosure
sound excelent, highly recommended!
/I will still work on crossover, horn tweeter is overpowering woofer, nothing attenuator can not cure/
Attachments
hi rdf
thanks for the frequency response
if I will have some time, I will measure fr response in my room for each unit individualy
looking at the fr response , it confirms my impressions, it is tilting upwards, it could use variable attenuator to make it more flat
I currently do not have any, but I will purchase one soon
than I will experiment with setting on attenuator, once happy, I will measure the attenuator and install resistors
listening to the speakers, bass is nice and deep, it sounds fine without the subwoofer
however, coaxials could be used as midranges/tweeters on top of big efficient subwoofer, that should yield better sound and higher power handling
maybe even open baffle for coaxial on top of subwoofer
possibilities are limitless
cal, I will certainly put inductor on woofer, currently its running straight, only one 3.3 uF cap for tweeter
I put 6 uF at first but that was way too much hights
crossover is somewhere between 3 to 5 kHz
far from final, but most importantly speakers are already sounding great
highly suitable for small power amps
Inductor, I do not understand what you mean by clamps
speakers are mounted temporarily from the front on the baffle by screws
speakers on the back have gold plated high quality push and insert wire connectors, separate for each tweeter and woofer
Inductor, the fr response is complete, for both units together
thanks for the frequency response
if I will have some time, I will measure fr response in my room for each unit individualy
looking at the fr response , it confirms my impressions, it is tilting upwards, it could use variable attenuator to make it more flat
I currently do not have any, but I will purchase one soon
than I will experiment with setting on attenuator, once happy, I will measure the attenuator and install resistors
listening to the speakers, bass is nice and deep, it sounds fine without the subwoofer
however, coaxials could be used as midranges/tweeters on top of big efficient subwoofer, that should yield better sound and higher power handling
maybe even open baffle for coaxial on top of subwoofer
possibilities are limitless
cal, I will certainly put inductor on woofer, currently its running straight, only one 3.3 uF cap for tweeter
I put 6 uF at first but that was way too much hights
crossover is somewhere between 3 to 5 kHz
far from final, but most importantly speakers are already sounding great
highly suitable for small power amps
Inductor, I do not understand what you mean by clamps
speakers are mounted temporarily from the front on the baffle by screws
speakers on the back have gold plated high quality push and insert wire connectors, separate for each tweeter and woofer
Inductor, the fr response is complete, for both units together
Sorry, that's all I found. From a Korean site:
http://www.soundhouse.co.kr/html/so...mallcode=0&keyfield=&key=&number=11502&page=1
http://www.soundhouse.co.kr/html/so...mallcode=0&keyfield=&key=&number=11502&page=1
can we trust that?
I am not saying it's wrong...
I'm asking, from the graphic, how much is the dB's (SPL) and impedance peaks? can you read "Ohms" there?... or 97 dB's... thats the good questions when we buy blind. Nothing against... if you can measure parameters. Those specs are a good start, but as somebody posted before you can not trust all the manufacturers... "42" can be between 40 and 50. For an "inexpensive" set up, not accurate system, must be just fine...
I am not saying it's wrong...
I'm asking, from the graphic, how much is the dB's (SPL) and impedance peaks? can you read "Ohms" there?... or 97 dB's... thats the good questions when we buy blind. Nothing against... if you can measure parameters. Those specs are a good start, but as somebody posted before you can not trust all the manufacturers... "42" can be between 40 and 50. For an "inexpensive" set up, not accurate system, must be just fine...
I PICTURE THIS EXEMPLE FROM THE NET... just for looks...
http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/...on=&&moniker=Les Hudson&invite=&w=1544&h=1158
http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/...on=&&moniker=Les Hudson&invite=&w=1544&h=1158
hi Inductor,
yes, that scale is not right, it is pretty obvious....but at least we get the idea of slightly rising frequency response, which is not that much of the problem
I am going to travel a lot next week, but I promise, once I come back, I will measure fr response myself, total, and each unit separately
it will be response in my room, in my closed enclosure it is currently in, it will not be in scale, and it will have no resistance plot
inspite of that it should be uselfull, especialy for me, for tweeking the crossover for flat response
ed
I'm asking, from the graphic, how much is the dB's (SPL) and impedance peaks? can you read "Ohms" there?... or 97 dB's...
yes, that scale is not right, it is pretty obvious....but at least we get the idea of slightly rising frequency response, which is not that much of the problem
I am going to travel a lot next week, but I promise, once I come back, I will measure fr response myself, total, and each unit separately
it will be response in my room, in my closed enclosure it is currently in, it will not be in scale, and it will have no resistance plot
inspite of that it should be uselfull, especialy for me, for tweeking the crossover for flat response
ed
that net picture is interesting
it looks like small PA or HT system someone put together
if you are only going to use coaxial from let say 100 Hz up, it needs only small box, plus hanles more power once liberated from deep bass
that would be one way to go
now I must go, too much work...
it looks like small PA or HT system someone put together
if you are only going to use coaxial from let say 100 Hz up, it needs only small box, plus hanles more power once liberated from deep bass
that would be one way to go
now I must go, too much work...
just as i promised, i just measured fr response of the speaker
my setup is behringer ecm8000 mike, proprietory (excelent) mic preamp and digital multimeter with dB scale
its in relative scale, not per watt/meter
i measured first the woofer alone
attached is the graph, there are good news and bad news, it only goes to about 50Hz down, and it has almost 10 dB breakup at 1.6kHz
good news is its very flat between 50 to 1000 Hz
my setup is behringer ecm8000 mike, proprietory (excelent) mic preamp and digital multimeter with dB scale
its in relative scale, not per watt/meter
i measured first the woofer alone
attached is the graph, there are good news and bad news, it only goes to about 50Hz down, and it has almost 10 dB breakup at 1.6kHz
good news is its very flat between 50 to 1000 Hz
Attachments
as a signal source i use technics sl-p1200 cd player and Stryke's Test CD, which has both sine wave and warble tones
i used warble
signal is amplified by technics se-9060, no preamp
however, at the previous settings, when i started to measure tweeter, that was too loud and i did not want to burn neither my ears not the tweeter
so i reduced the volume and remeasured both the woofer and tweeter, tweeter was measured with 20uF, 10uF and 3.5 uF capacitors (only 3.5 uF fr response is shown)
next picture is fr response for both drivers
i used warble
signal is amplified by technics se-9060, no preamp
however, at the previous settings, when i started to measure tweeter, that was too loud and i did not want to burn neither my ears not the tweeter
so i reduced the volume and remeasured both the woofer and tweeter, tweeter was measured with 20uF, 10uF and 3.5 uF capacitors (only 3.5 uF fr response is shown)
next picture is fr response for both drivers
Attachments
Looks good.
Does anybody know tweet Fs?
That's important to design the xover. You want to go after (higher) than. It does not show any peak though (@ 1600Hz). The woof you just cross a little before (1600) at around 1000/1200 to make the peak go flat or leave it as is to join the HF driver up a little (+2/3dB's) and pad it or not. That's the full X-Ray.
Does anybody know tweet Fs?
That's important to design the xover. You want to go after (higher) than. It does not show any peak though (@ 1600Hz). The woof you just cross a little before (1600) at around 1000/1200 to make the peak go flat or leave it as is to join the HF driver up a little (+2/3dB's) and pad it or not. That's the full X-Ray.
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