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Old 5th August 2012, 09:29 PM   #1241
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Thought these speakers needed some really good stands so I designed Base and spike system. Base is 1/2" laser cut plate steel. Spike is 3/4" 16 thread with 1/2" adjust.. 34pounds added to each side..

The speaker is much more solidly planted and the entire sound has improved...

If anyone would like these I can do more upon request but rather expensive...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Base Plate & Spike.jpg (405.6 KB, 393 views)
File Type: jpg Base Plate Installed.jpg (482.5 KB, 370 views)
File Type: jpg Base Plate Close up.jpg (453.0 KB, 354 views)
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Old 5th August 2012, 10:53 PM   #1242
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Nice work Joel, very smart.
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Old 6th August 2012, 05:01 AM   #1243
irext is offline irext  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
Thought these speakers needed some really good stands so I designed Base and spike system. Base is 1/2" laser cut plate steel. Spike is 3/4" 16 thread with 1/2" adjust.. 34pounds added to each side..

The speaker is much more solidly planted and the entire sound has improved...

If anyone would like these I can do more upon request but rather expensive...
As usual a work of art!
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Old 7th August 2012, 01:54 AM   #1244
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Originally Posted by spoonted View Post
Nice work Joel, very smart.
Thanks!

This speaker is worth the effort
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Old 7th August 2012, 01:56 AM   #1245
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Originally Posted by irext View Post
As usual a work of art!
Very nice words. Thank you!
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Old 7th August 2012, 03:35 AM   #1246
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
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Originally Posted by tpate View Post
Jdkjake, When we tuned the port on my set I had several length's on hand, 1/4 inch increments and used duct tape to seal the gap around the port. I ended up using the shortest one I had on hand and siliconed it in place The 30 ohm resistors really tighten up the bass. If you have been enjoying the way they sound I don't think I would change the damping material until you try different port lengths.
tpate,

What was the final port length (and internal diameter) you ended up using?

While I am able to tune the cabinets down in frequency as far as one could possibly want by increasing port length, I seem to have hit a wall with shortening the port to tune the cabinets up in frequency. Further, once the port length gets below ~75mm and recess in between the back panel stiffeners, the twin peaks start to get very uneven with respect to each other while providing no real increase in frequency. About the best I have been able to achieve is about ~1hz in measurable frequency increase.

I am struggling a bit determining the next steps in getting the port tuning up in frequency. Removing dampening material? Add mass inside the cabinet to decrease internal volume? Something else entirely?
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Old 8th August 2012, 02:34 AM   #1247
tpate is offline tpate  United States
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Jdk, My final port length was 2.75 inches,I think. I will check to make sure tomorrow when I go to the studio. I used the expanded end of three inch pvc pipe which would be like a 3" coupling but doesn't have the rib in the middle of it. When Bolser and I were tuning the port we got all kinds of weird nodes until I put the duct tape around the port and sealed it good. I don't think lower than optimal tuning is as bad as higher. I will ping Bolser and see if he has any suggestions.
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Old 8th August 2012, 12:02 PM   #1248
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
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Thanks tpate. I am most interested in the final length you used. Our diameters are essentially the same as I used a coupler with the rib removed. During my experiments, just to be throrough, I actually took them all the way down to 25mm.

The way I understand it, the port tuning can be in the 40's, near the free air resonance of the drivers for maximum output. They can be tuned low in the high 20's for maximum extension (at the expense of output) or in the mid 30's for the best extension/output compromise. This appears to be what Joe was aiming for with the tuning and has designed everything around that point.

spoonted brought up an excellent observation about the installation of my dampning material regarding the thickness and resulting density. The material I am using is advertised as 35mm deep. Since I am using a dual layer on the back, the thickness should be 70mm (give or take). Since the material is actually below the 50mm height of the back braces, I obviously compressed the material too much when I placed and glued it onto the back panel. Probably the same for the side panels. This most likely is making the material far too dense. Certainly, it is not installed and being used as designed. In any case, I should be able to "fluff" it up to the proper thickness. I will give this a try as well and report back.
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Old 12th August 2012, 11:43 AM   #1249
irext is offline irext  Australia
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Originally Posted by jdkJake View Post
Thanks tpate. I am most interested in the final length you used. Our diameters are essentially the same as I used a coupler with the rib removed. During my experiments, just to be throrough, I actually took them all the way down to 25mm.

The way I understand it, the port tuning can be in the 40's, near the free air resonance of the drivers for maximum output. They can be tuned low in the high 20's for maximum extension (at the expense of output) or in the mid 30's for the best extension/output compromise. This appears to be what Joe was aiming for with the tuning and has designed everything around that point.

spoonted brought up an excellent observation about the installation of my dampning material regarding the thickness and resulting density. The material I am using is advertised as 35mm deep. Since I am using a dual layer on the back, the thickness should be 70mm (give or take). Since the material is actually below the 50mm height of the back braces, I obviously compressed the material too much when I placed and glued it onto the back panel. Probably the same for the side panels. This most likely is making the material far too dense. Certainly, it is not installed and being used as designed. In any case, I should be able to "fluff" it up to the proper thickness. I will give this a try as well and report back.
I found that the material I used was also too dense. Replacing it with some experimental, much less dense material, made a huge difference to the LF output. I have since procured some material which I believe much more closely approximates the density of the wool/polyester material Joe Ras specified in his design. It is a 100% polyester product which is 75mm thick but can be peeled apart for the required thickness. It is made by "Rams Insulation" in Tullamarine Victoria for those who live in Aus. I haven't had a chance yet to pull them apart again to install it. I'll keep you posted on the results when I do. By the way I used the 90mm diameter port (storm water pipe) as specified by Joe. It's available at pretty much any hardware store in Australia. Not quite as pretty as a flared port though.

Happy listening.
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Old 12th August 2012, 07:37 PM   #1250
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
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The material I am using is Monacor MDM-3. The material is a 75% wool, 25% polyester blend. When first unrolled, the material is condensed to a depth of ~20mm. A little manipulation is necessary to reach the full 35mm depth the material is designed to be used. At 35mm, the material is very light and airy.

So, I pulled my back panel bats and "fluffed" them up to the 70mm depth possible by a double application of the material. As you can see, the rear panel is now significantly engulfed by the material. I also lightly fluffed the side material just a bit.

As expected, this had the effect of increasing the virtual volume of the enclosure, which, drove down the tuning point. So, while the material is being used correctly, I am still heading in the wrong direction.
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File Type: jpg IMG_4041.jpg (129.9 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4040.jpg (97.9 KB, 69 views)
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