Ok, I started here just looking for info, and now have been bitten.
Short version: Designing a sealed 3-way, based on a 6.5" midrange and 2 x 10" woofers.
I've noticed that a typical approach to a design is to form up the goals, pick drivers, and design the enclosure(s) and crossover. What I have in mind, more or less, is to develop the drivers from the desired enclosure. An anti-causal design, if you will.
My reasoning is that I know what I want the speaker to sound like, and I know what I want it to look like...and I like a good challenge.
Many years ago, I used to play in a jazz band. I can still tell the difference between a brass and nickel-silver trombone from beyond visual range. (As could any horn player! If you want a small bore silver trombone...just buy a trumpet!) I also love the sound of a tenor sax. We would practice and generally play acoustic, with an occasional amplified performance. Reading through this forum is leading me to believe that for nearly 20 years I've been judging speakers by their ability to reproduce those horns accurately. The thought of the sound of low-end (maybe all) pro horn speakers playing jazz still makes me cringe. To me, they make a brass instrument sound like it's mixed with equal parts kazoo. On the other hand, I've heard a few consumer speakers that, to me, sound pretty good. Emphasis on "few"....
Sorry for the boring background, I'm just trying to set and explain the expectations. "Good" means different things to different people, and I'm making assumptions when I jump from "what I want", to "what I think I want". From the above, what I think I want is: A generally flat speaker, with the range of about 80 to 1200Hz to be as flat and non-distorted as possible, with an overall frequency response of 50 to 20k. (I'm old, but can still hear those annoying 19kHz tones just fine.) I don't know if I could or would hear things like phase/timing errors or diffraction from the tweaters....I have no idea what those things even sound like.
What I want it to look like is a pair of full range speakers, with 2 10" woofers, a 6.5" midrange, and some sort of tweeter, stacked WWMT. Why? Mostly because I just like that look. Partly because I want to make what I want to hear fit what I want to see. Something that looks like it should sound good, and at the same time sound better than it appears that it should.
Why not ported? I'm not keen on adding more mechanical resonance in the range that I want to listen to. The interplay of the drivers, and their harmonic distortion, combined with the interaction of the port and enclosure...just too much for me. Electrical filtering I've done, I understand, and I can model.
So am I nuts? I hope not. My primary reasoning is that the 6.5 to 10 cross shouldn't be a big stretch, and that 2x10, even in a sealed enclosure, can handle being driven flat to 50.
There also may be a hidden bit of sense in my crazy plan. A 6.5" driver is pretty much the size of what I'd call the "sweet spot" of a trombone bell, and if my memory is right, pretty close to the size of the bell of a tenor sax.
Which midrange? Most home speaker midranges seem to be 5" or less. So I'm thinking about the Eminence 6 Alpha:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-400
If the published response is to be believed, it should be easy to work with, and I've read good things on here about Eminence.
So what am I missing? How crazy is this? and If this mid is reasonable, what should I be looking for for the woofers and tweeter? I have ideas, but would like to see how well the project and mid choice flies first.
Short version: Designing a sealed 3-way, based on a 6.5" midrange and 2 x 10" woofers.
I've noticed that a typical approach to a design is to form up the goals, pick drivers, and design the enclosure(s) and crossover. What I have in mind, more or less, is to develop the drivers from the desired enclosure. An anti-causal design, if you will.
My reasoning is that I know what I want the speaker to sound like, and I know what I want it to look like...and I like a good challenge.
Many years ago, I used to play in a jazz band. I can still tell the difference between a brass and nickel-silver trombone from beyond visual range. (As could any horn player! If you want a small bore silver trombone...just buy a trumpet!) I also love the sound of a tenor sax. We would practice and generally play acoustic, with an occasional amplified performance. Reading through this forum is leading me to believe that for nearly 20 years I've been judging speakers by their ability to reproduce those horns accurately. The thought of the sound of low-end (maybe all) pro horn speakers playing jazz still makes me cringe. To me, they make a brass instrument sound like it's mixed with equal parts kazoo. On the other hand, I've heard a few consumer speakers that, to me, sound pretty good. Emphasis on "few"....
Sorry for the boring background, I'm just trying to set and explain the expectations. "Good" means different things to different people, and I'm making assumptions when I jump from "what I want", to "what I think I want". From the above, what I think I want is: A generally flat speaker, with the range of about 80 to 1200Hz to be as flat and non-distorted as possible, with an overall frequency response of 50 to 20k. (I'm old, but can still hear those annoying 19kHz tones just fine.) I don't know if I could or would hear things like phase/timing errors or diffraction from the tweaters....I have no idea what those things even sound like.
What I want it to look like is a pair of full range speakers, with 2 10" woofers, a 6.5" midrange, and some sort of tweeter, stacked WWMT. Why? Mostly because I just like that look. Partly because I want to make what I want to hear fit what I want to see. Something that looks like it should sound good, and at the same time sound better than it appears that it should.
Why not ported? I'm not keen on adding more mechanical resonance in the range that I want to listen to. The interplay of the drivers, and their harmonic distortion, combined with the interaction of the port and enclosure...just too much for me. Electrical filtering I've done, I understand, and I can model.
So am I nuts? I hope not. My primary reasoning is that the 6.5 to 10 cross shouldn't be a big stretch, and that 2x10, even in a sealed enclosure, can handle being driven flat to 50.
There also may be a hidden bit of sense in my crazy plan. A 6.5" driver is pretty much the size of what I'd call the "sweet spot" of a trombone bell, and if my memory is right, pretty close to the size of the bell of a tenor sax.
Which midrange? Most home speaker midranges seem to be 5" or less. So I'm thinking about the Eminence 6 Alpha:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-400
If the published response is to be believed, it should be easy to work with, and I've read good things on here about Eminence.
So what am I missing? How crazy is this? and If this mid is reasonable, what should I be looking for for the woofers and tweeter? I have ideas, but would like to see how well the project and mid choice flies first.
Hi Tom,
For a midrange you should have a look at this Tang Band driver: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-852.
Listed as a woofer, it will actually play up to about 12K, tho it starts beaming around 5K. Very nice midrange indeed - light cones. 4 of them are in my living room. I haven't heard the Alpha 6, but it gets good reviews.
For a midrange you should have a look at this Tang Band driver: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-852.
Listed as a woofer, it will actually play up to about 12K, tho it starts beaming around 5K. Very nice midrange indeed - light cones. 4 of them are in my living room. I haven't heard the Alpha 6, but it gets good reviews.
So maybe I'm not nuts?
That Tag Band looks nice. It would work as a sealed midrange? Based on the Qts and Vas, it looks like it want about a 10" cube for a box. Does that sound about right? Using the numbers for the Alpha, it wants about half that volume, which fits with the spec sheet listing the recommended box size as .1-.2 ft^3.
The power ratings of the two speakers is puzzling. The Alpha with a 100W rating, the Tag at 30W. The target room for these is about 300 ft^2, carpeted, and an 8' acoustical tile ceiling. I have no idea what to expect in terms of efficiency. If the overall efficiency of the speaker, not counting any bass EQ, ends up around 90db/w, I would guess that 50W of average audio power would be more than enough to be annoyingly loud. Not something I'd normally do, but I'd like the capability. From reading here, power and efficiency ratings have to be taken with a grain of salt. Will either or both of these mids play loud enough, assuming I don't cross with the woofers too low, or am I worrying about something silly?
Not counting the electronics and wood, I'd be happy if the drivers were less than $350 a speaker. I'd love it to be less, but I could live with more. I'm not married, so if it's a bit more, I just wait a little longer.
For the woofers, I'd planned on using technology to make up for my lack of experience. My idea is to buy an inexpensive active crossover and parametric EQ, and tune a test speaker with either one of the test programs I've been reading about here, or even a signal generator and a scope.
My crazy thought for the woofers is this: At low listening levels, I should be able to use something along the lines of a Linkwitz transform to boost the low end flat to around 40-50 Hz or so (maybe lower!), and use power to make up for the roll off on the low end with sealed 10" woofers. At higher levels, I can let the woofers roll off naturally at a higher level, to avoid blowing them apart. At some point, I could add a mono subwoofer, as I believe the 10's should handle being crossed around 80, if it's steep, at a pretty high power.
If the woofer plan is halfway reasonable, what should I look for in woofers? Obviously something that can run sealed, and that will handle a bit of power, but beyond that I just don't know. Pro drivers at 10" seem to be midranges, and consumer drivers seem to be designed for a ported box. Oh, and to top it off, I'd like to find a 4 or 16 ohm woofer, to allow for the option of a simple passive crossover being driven at around 8 ohms. I'm guessing I'll want to use an active cross, and two amps, but I'd like the option of being able to use a consumer amp of around 200 watts.
That Tag Band looks nice. It would work as a sealed midrange? Based on the Qts and Vas, it looks like it want about a 10" cube for a box. Does that sound about right? Using the numbers for the Alpha, it wants about half that volume, which fits with the spec sheet listing the recommended box size as .1-.2 ft^3.
The power ratings of the two speakers is puzzling. The Alpha with a 100W rating, the Tag at 30W. The target room for these is about 300 ft^2, carpeted, and an 8' acoustical tile ceiling. I have no idea what to expect in terms of efficiency. If the overall efficiency of the speaker, not counting any bass EQ, ends up around 90db/w, I would guess that 50W of average audio power would be more than enough to be annoyingly loud. Not something I'd normally do, but I'd like the capability. From reading here, power and efficiency ratings have to be taken with a grain of salt. Will either or both of these mids play loud enough, assuming I don't cross with the woofers too low, or am I worrying about something silly?
Not counting the electronics and wood, I'd be happy if the drivers were less than $350 a speaker. I'd love it to be less, but I could live with more. I'm not married, so if it's a bit more, I just wait a little longer.
For the woofers, I'd planned on using technology to make up for my lack of experience. My idea is to buy an inexpensive active crossover and parametric EQ, and tune a test speaker with either one of the test programs I've been reading about here, or even a signal generator and a scope.
My crazy thought for the woofers is this: At low listening levels, I should be able to use something along the lines of a Linkwitz transform to boost the low end flat to around 40-50 Hz or so (maybe lower!), and use power to make up for the roll off on the low end with sealed 10" woofers. At higher levels, I can let the woofers roll off naturally at a higher level, to avoid blowing them apart. At some point, I could add a mono subwoofer, as I believe the 10's should handle being crossed around 80, if it's steep, at a pretty high power.
If the woofer plan is halfway reasonable, what should I look for in woofers? Obviously something that can run sealed, and that will handle a bit of power, but beyond that I just don't know. Pro drivers at 10" seem to be midranges, and consumer drivers seem to be designed for a ported box. Oh, and to top it off, I'd like to find a 4 or 16 ohm woofer, to allow for the option of a simple passive crossover being driven at around 8 ohms. I'm guessing I'll want to use an active cross, and two amps, but I'd like the option of being able to use a consumer amp of around 200 watts.
I don't think either mid will have any trouble with a 50 WPC amp. Obiviously the Alpha will handle more. But they should both run out of cone excursion at about 150Hz with peak power. So that's really your limit. You would be crossing above that, right?
Don't know for your 10s. I've always wondered what the Usher 1001 sounds like. It could go sealed or ported in a moderate size box. Two in parallele should be as about loud as the mid. Might be out of budget, tho.
Have a poke around to see if anyone likes-knows the Usher 1001 10".
Don't know for your 10s. I've always wondered what the Usher 1001 sounds like. It could go sealed or ported in a moderate size box. Two in parallele should be as about loud as the mid. Might be out of budget, tho.
Have a poke around to see if anyone likes-knows the Usher 1001 10".
I hadn't really thought about $100+ woofers, but unless I go with something like Goldwood that may be where I'm at. None of the Dayton's seem to fit, and I really don't like the idea of a clear plastic cone.
The Usher's look OK, but not a heck of a lot of feedback on them. Looking around in the same price range, I see the Vifa PL26 at Madisound. 10" coated paper, 4 ohm version available, specs very much like the Usher.
Based on the Alpha 6 curves, I was thinking of crossing around 200-300Hz, depending on the woofer and how they sound.
For the mids, I wouldn't mind buying one of the Tags and one Alpha, to test. That actually sounds like fun. For paired woofers, I suspect I'll read what I can, and take my best guess.
Now what to do about the top? The tweeter obviously has to work with the 6.5" midrange, which leads me to think a crossover around 2500-3000 if I use the Alpha, and maybe up to 4000 if I use the Tangs. I know I don't want piezo, and I'm pretty sure I don't want ribbon...dome?
The Usher's look OK, but not a heck of a lot of feedback on them. Looking around in the same price range, I see the Vifa PL26 at Madisound. 10" coated paper, 4 ohm version available, specs very much like the Usher.
Based on the Alpha 6 curves, I was thinking of crossing around 200-300Hz, depending on the woofer and how they sound.
For the mids, I wouldn't mind buying one of the Tags and one Alpha, to test. That actually sounds like fun. For paired woofers, I suspect I'll read what I can, and take my best guess.
Now what to do about the top? The tweeter obviously has to work with the 6.5" midrange, which leads me to think a crossover around 2500-3000 if I use the Alpha, and maybe up to 4000 if I use the Tangs. I know I don't want piezo, and I'm pretty sure I don't want ribbon...dome?
Well you did say up to $350 per side driver cost. A pair of Usher 10s, + a mid leaves you about $100, for the tweeter right?
There are soooo many tweeters, how do you choose? I know you will need a pretty dynamic tweeter to keep up with the Tang Band mid. Maybe more so for the Alpha 6. I use a horn tweeter to keep up with dual TB W6-789s.
I have looked at the Vifa tens. Don't know them, but I like my Vifa 7" woofers in bookshelf speakers. Lots of Vifa fans here.
Was hoping you would say that! Sure would like to know what you find.
My current object of desire is the Usher HM15 15" studio monitor woofer that's on sale at P.E. Don't know how it sounds, but something about the way it looks just talks to me. =)
There are soooo many tweeters, how do you choose? I know you will need a pretty dynamic tweeter to keep up with the Tang Band mid. Maybe more so for the Alpha 6. I use a horn tweeter to keep up with dual TB W6-789s.
I have looked at the Vifa tens. Don't know them, but I like my Vifa 7" woofers in bookshelf speakers. Lots of Vifa fans here.
Was hoping you would say that! Sure would like to know what you find.
My current object of desire is the Usher HM15 15" studio monitor woofer that's on sale at P.E. Don't know how it sounds, but something about the way it looks just talks to me. =)
panomaniac said:
I keep hoping someone will pop in and say "hey, you blockhead, try these: "!
In one sense, the tweeter might be easier, because I suspect that I've never heard a good one. Do the horns vs domes sound dramatically different?
I'm going to have to go back and read the Zaph site again...
RandomTom said:
Sure do. The domes are much easier to get right. Horns can be tricky. I think that I might drop my horns in favor of a slot type tweeter. Mostly because of the physical alignment problems. The little Selenium horn is actually a couple of inches deeper than the W6-789. I believe that this misalignment is giving me phase grief.
But I could be wrong.
Need to break out the mic and measure it. Have been thinking that a slot tweeter would be easier to align with the woofer/mids. Plenty sensitive enough for my use. Something to try....
Hi Tom
Do not look over the Vifa woofers. They are VERY good for the price, and a few DIY-ers actually prefer them to their Scan-Speak 'big brothers'.
As for a tweeter, if you are going to cross over very high, I do have an interesting suggestion. Pioneer, the makers of TAD which are amongst the best pro drivers to be found, have released a nice new ribbon tweeter. It is called the Pioneer ART-55D - true ribbon super tweeter and is available through E-Speakers at $89.50 ea. Have a look:
The specs as given are:
- range 6khz - 120khz /-10db
- 90db/w imp: 6ohm
- ultra wide dispersion
- vanishing low distortion
- die cast Alu wave guide face plate
- built-in transformer / flat impedance
- 90mm x 102mm cutout template included
They also have some very nice looking TAD-Pioneer bass-mid drivers there (4", 5" and 6" kevlar drivers, all with a response rated up to 8kHz), but unfortunately only the basic info is available on them (no TSP spec sheets or response curves, etc.). However the TAD drivers by Pioneer are very highly rated, so I suspect these will sound good too. Here is the link to the page again:
TAD-Pioneer\ Loudspeaker Components
Enjoy,
Deon
Do not look over the Vifa woofers. They are VERY good for the price, and a few DIY-ers actually prefer them to their Scan-Speak 'big brothers'.
As for a tweeter, if you are going to cross over very high, I do have an interesting suggestion. Pioneer, the makers of TAD which are amongst the best pro drivers to be found, have released a nice new ribbon tweeter. It is called the Pioneer ART-55D - true ribbon super tweeter and is available through E-Speakers at $89.50 ea. Have a look:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The specs as given are:
- range 6khz - 120khz /-10db
- 90db/w imp: 6ohm
- ultra wide dispersion
- vanishing low distortion
- die cast Alu wave guide face plate
- built-in transformer / flat impedance
- 90mm x 102mm cutout template included
They also have some very nice looking TAD-Pioneer bass-mid drivers there (4", 5" and 6" kevlar drivers, all with a response rated up to 8kHz), but unfortunately only the basic info is available on them (no TSP spec sheets or response curves, etc.). However the TAD drivers by Pioneer are very highly rated, so I suspect these will sound good too. Here is the link to the page again:
TAD-Pioneer\ Loudspeaker Components
Enjoy,
Deon
Banned
Joined 2002
Nice looking tweeter!
RandomTom did say no ribbons, tho. Wonder if that tweeter could keep up with the mid? Would be nice to hear it.
Thanks for the link to the Pioneer stuff, cool.
So there you go R-T. Vifa or Usher 10s - take your pick.
Buy one each of the mids - TangBand W6-789 and Eminence Alpa 8 - then start listening. The tweeter is going to be the hard part.
When you said "active crossover" where you thinking 2 or 3 way?
RandomTom did say no ribbons, tho. Wonder if that tweeter could keep up with the mid? Would be nice to hear it.
Thanks for the link to the Pioneer stuff, cool.
So there you go R-T. Vifa or Usher 10s - take your pick.
Buy one each of the mids - TangBand W6-789 and Eminence Alpa 8 - then start listening. The tweeter is going to be the hard part.
When you said "active crossover" where you thinking 2 or 3 way?
kazoos
Tom,
I was particularly struck by your "kazoo" comment.
I played the clarinet for many years and a simple trick you can perform with the mouthpiece is to remove it and play it in free air, without the tube/column of air that's normally part of the picture. The sound is as you say. like a kazoo. Lot's of wild disonant harmonics and a general uncontrolled feel/sound to the notes. Although the reed on the moutpiece makes the sound, the tube of the instrument is everything in controlling the sound and making it mellow.
I'm beginning to feel that drivers, although they might be in a tuned box, have something of the kazoo about them and that one solution you could look at would be transmission line speakers.
J
Tom,
I was particularly struck by your "kazoo" comment.
I played the clarinet for many years and a simple trick you can perform with the mouthpiece is to remove it and play it in free air, without the tube/column of air that's normally part of the picture. The sound is as you say. like a kazoo. Lot's of wild disonant harmonics and a general uncontrolled feel/sound to the notes. Although the reed on the moutpiece makes the sound, the tube of the instrument is everything in controlling the sound and making it mellow.
I'm beginning to feel that drivers, although they might be in a tuned box, have something of the kazoo about them and that one solution you could look at would be transmission line speakers.
J
Re: kazoos
All this feedback has been great - a big "thanks" to everyone!
It's very possible I'm discounting ribbons without enough information. I did so after reading through the Zaph site, which created a mental association between the ribbons and the piezos. Piezo I've heard, and don't like, and that fits with many comments I've read in this forum. Zaph had me laughing through the rants, and his tests generally lead me to think that the ribbons aren't normally as cost effective as the domes, but more importantly that they seem to be hard to do right. Seemed risky.
I spent part of last night reading his tweeter tests, over and over again, trying to make some sense of the measurements vs the photos and brands. I could be (probably am!) way off base, but I think I'm understanding the reasoning behind the fabric dome: Low mass, reduced resonance, and nothing near the driving element. Leads me to believe that much of the bad sounds I've heard from tweeters has been "ringing" of the metal parts of the tweeters, either after a tone or in sympathetic vibration to one of it's harmonics.
So after a couple of aspirins and some sleep, I'm leaning toward a fabric dome tweeter, so far maybe one of the 1" Seas, or 1 1/8" Tag. I like the idea of the 1 1/8, to let me cross lower if I wanted to, but the various Seas drivers tested well on Zaph, are spoken well of here, and just look like they should work to me - as does the Tag. On the other hand, this is all so new to me that I want to look and read more.
It's funny you mention this! I've been reading about TL speakers, and also noticing that there is a lot in common between audio and RF electronics. It's something I think I want to play with later, but believe is beyond what I want to tackle right now. Plus, having a nice pair of sealed speakers would give me something to compare TL tests with.
I suspect that either of the 6.5's will take some padding to match the woofers or tweeters. I don't mind that, as I'm willing to trade efficiency for sound quality.
Crossover... I had been expecting to have to do a lot of work with the crossover, and planned on some form of three way and probably EQ to "tune" the speaker. From there, I figured I would have the option of keeping an active crossover on all three, or designing a passive crossover for the mid/tweeter, or even a passive three way. I guess this will depend on how much shaping I have to do, and how much I want to wind coils...
So, yep, I want to try both mids. That will be fun. I'm leaning toward the Vifa 10's, and again appreciate the info on both. The influence is in part from so many consistantly good things about Vifa.
Tweeters will be the thing to drive me nuts. I have to say, though, that I'm much more confident that I'll end up with a decent sounding speaker. Except maybe for that tweeter thing...not confident at all about that. If the midrange really works to 3-4000, and the tweeter down to 1500-2000, where do you cross? Or is it just a matter of playing around until you have something that sounds/tests right? I've read about designs where there was a very narrow range of possible crossing frequencies, but I don't think that will be the case here.
Have I missed something obvious yet that will come back to haunt me?
All this feedback has been great - a big "thanks" to everyone!
It's very possible I'm discounting ribbons without enough information. I did so after reading through the Zaph site, which created a mental association between the ribbons and the piezos. Piezo I've heard, and don't like, and that fits with many comments I've read in this forum. Zaph had me laughing through the rants, and his tests generally lead me to think that the ribbons aren't normally as cost effective as the domes, but more importantly that they seem to be hard to do right. Seemed risky.
I spent part of last night reading his tweeter tests, over and over again, trying to make some sense of the measurements vs the photos and brands. I could be (probably am!) way off base, but I think I'm understanding the reasoning behind the fabric dome: Low mass, reduced resonance, and nothing near the driving element. Leads me to believe that much of the bad sounds I've heard from tweeters has been "ringing" of the metal parts of the tweeters, either after a tone or in sympathetic vibration to one of it's harmonics.
So after a couple of aspirins and some sleep, I'm leaning toward a fabric dome tweeter, so far maybe one of the 1" Seas, or 1 1/8" Tag. I like the idea of the 1 1/8, to let me cross lower if I wanted to, but the various Seas drivers tested well on Zaph, are spoken well of here, and just look like they should work to me - as does the Tag. On the other hand, this is all so new to me that I want to look and read more.
parrot said:
It's funny you mention this! I've been reading about TL speakers, and also noticing that there is a lot in common between audio and RF electronics. It's something I think I want to play with later, but believe is beyond what I want to tackle right now. Plus, having a nice pair of sealed speakers would give me something to compare TL tests with.
I suspect that either of the 6.5's will take some padding to match the woofers or tweeters. I don't mind that, as I'm willing to trade efficiency for sound quality.
Crossover... I had been expecting to have to do a lot of work with the crossover, and planned on some form of three way and probably EQ to "tune" the speaker. From there, I figured I would have the option of keeping an active crossover on all three, or designing a passive crossover for the mid/tweeter, or even a passive three way. I guess this will depend on how much shaping I have to do, and how much I want to wind coils...
So, yep, I want to try both mids. That will be fun. I'm leaning toward the Vifa 10's, and again appreciate the info on both. The influence is in part from so many consistantly good things about Vifa.
Tweeters will be the thing to drive me nuts. I have to say, though, that I'm much more confident that I'll end up with a decent sounding speaker. Except maybe for that tweeter thing...not confident at all about that. If the midrange really works to 3-4000, and the tweeter down to 1500-2000, where do you cross? Or is it just a matter of playing around until you have something that sounds/tests right? I've read about designs where there was a very narrow range of possible crossing frequencies, but I don't think that will be the case here.
Have I missed something obvious yet that will come back to haunt me?
I cross my Tang Band 6.5 at 5K, 1st order - more or less. No real trouble with beaming. A 6.5" driver is supposed to start beaming at about 2.7K (I think). But many are crossed over much higher. If you are using an active filter with steep slopes, then maybe beaming could be more of a problem, since the tweeter would not be "filling in" down low. Hard to say.
At least with the active crossover all you have to do is twist a few knobs to try new things. That's nice!
Do you have 6 channels of amplification?
I like your sealed box idea. I have a pair of big sealed boxes at work with a 12" and ScanSpeak 1.5" tweeter. Works great, plenty of bass in a VERY big room. Piano sounds great. And no port tuning headaches. =)
At least with the active crossover all you have to do is twist a few knobs to try new things. That's nice!
Do you have 6 channels of amplification?
I like your sealed box idea. I have a pair of big sealed boxes at work with a 12" and ScanSpeak 1.5" tweeter. Works great, plenty of bass in a VERY big room. Piano sounds great. And no port tuning headaches. =)
I would really like to hear this Tangband
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1129c.htm
On tight budget but wanting double 10", it might work nice with a pair of theese pioneer
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-088
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1129c.htm
On tight budget but wanting double 10", it might work nice with a pair of theese pioneer
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-088
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.