Now this could be a never ending thread! 
If you have a timber merchant/diy chainstore near you that can cut board to size, then that is the major part done, in which case you will need a router or jigsaw, ( I would go for a router, you can do more with it in the long term), to cut the driver holes, and a battery drill/screwdriver for fixing screws. You can hold parts together temporarily whilst fixing with parcel tape, but if you can afford them, a couple of clamps would be a good investment. That's the minimum I can think you'll get away with.
If you have a timber merchant/diy chainstore near you that can cut board to size, then that is the major part done, in which case you will need a router or jigsaw, ( I would go for a router, you can do more with it in the long term), to cut the driver holes, and a battery drill/screwdriver for fixing screws. You can hold parts together temporarily whilst fixing with parcel tape, but if you can afford them, a couple of clamps would be a good investment. That's the minimum I can think you'll get away with.
Hmmm. I'll differ from PM. I bought a nice Elu router and apart from the fact that it's the most frightening tool I've ever used (handheld milling machine), I don't seem to use it much. However, my top-of-the-range Bosch jigsaw is indispensible.
Similarly, I bought a battery drill/screwdriver for screwdriving. I use it a lot, but I would warn you that there's an awful lot of cheap rubbish out there. The only reason I bought the battery drill was that I was making transmission line loudspeakers and knew that there would be panels with perhaps forty screws needing to be tightened before the glue went off. Hand screwdrivers give you blisters on that number of screws, and aren't as fast.
Clamps are invaluable. Clamps combined with a Workmate are even better. If you could clamp everything securely while the glue set you wouldn't need screws.
Buy proper tools from real tool shops, not cheap rubbish from a market. Cheap tools will waste your time and your money (both in the tools and the materials wasted). It's far better to have a few good tools than a copious selection of rubbish.
Oh, and get some ear muffs...
Similarly, I bought a battery drill/screwdriver for screwdriving. I use it a lot, but I would warn you that there's an awful lot of cheap rubbish out there. The only reason I bought the battery drill was that I was making transmission line loudspeakers and knew that there would be panels with perhaps forty screws needing to be tightened before the glue went off. Hand screwdrivers give you blisters on that number of screws, and aren't as fast.
Clamps are invaluable. Clamps combined with a Workmate are even better. If you could clamp everything securely while the glue set you wouldn't need screws.
Buy proper tools from real tool shops, not cheap rubbish from a market. Cheap tools will waste your time and your money (both in the tools and the materials wasted). It's far better to have a few good tools than a copious selection of rubbish.
Oh, and get some ear muffs...
Attachments
Holy cow, a 1/2" hammer drill for a 3/16" bit into wood? That's a lot of drill for that job.
To answer the question about cutting, depending on the size of the job at hand you can get a countertop table saw for a reasonable price. The actual table saws are rather pricey. If that's not in the cards then a circular saw and straight edge work fine. As well as:
Jig saw and/or router
cordless screw gun and/or drill
belt sander and/or finishing sander.
clamps and/or workmate (shown in last post)
Basic hand tools.
That's a good start and can make you many sets of speakers before you feel the need to upgrade.
To answer the question about cutting, depending on the size of the job at hand you can get a countertop table saw for a reasonable price. The actual table saws are rather pricey. If that's not in the cards then a circular saw and straight edge work fine. As well as:
Jig saw and/or router
cordless screw gun and/or drill
belt sander and/or finishing sander.
clamps and/or workmate (shown in last post)
Basic hand tools.
That's a good start and can make you many sets of speakers before you feel the need to upgrade.
I'm with PM. My ELU MOF177E router gets worked seriously hard on speaker cabinets. If you do go for a router, then I can't recommend the Jasper jigs highly enough. I bought a Jasper 400, and used it extensively on my SP93 project.
For cutting panels, I use a straight edge and a circular to bring 8' x 4's down to manageable sizes, and then I use a small, inexpensive table saw to do the rest. When I built the SP93s, I bought the 25mm MDF from my local timber supplier, and had them cut it down into 4 sheets of 4' x 2', which I then cut on my table saw.
For cutting panels, I use a straight edge and a circular to bring 8' x 4's down to manageable sizes, and then I use a small, inexpensive table saw to do the rest. When I built the SP93s, I bought the 25mm MDF from my local timber supplier, and had them cut it down into 4 sheets of 4' x 2', which I then cut on my table saw.
About everything I use when I make speakers. It's an old photo, need to upgrade. In case you wander: With multiple screwdrivers you don't have to change between bits and drills all the time
With router, jigsaw and circulair saw use some sort of guidening system.
The 3 things I couldn't do without:
- Router
- Clamps
- Drill
Strictly seen you don't need the rest in 90% of the cases, but if you need them it's a bless to have them around
Wkr Johan
I do most of my stuff with a halfway decent jigsaw (low end Bosch), cordless drill/driver (rebranded Ryobi), and a small router.
I rought cut pannels with the jigsaw, you can get to withing 1/2-1mm accurate with a little practice and decent blades (don't scrimp on the blades, they are the bit doing the cutting), then glue and screw them together with the rough cut edge overhanging. then use a laminate trimming bit in the router (straight fluted cutter with a bearing on the tip) to straighten up my rought cut edge against the flat pannel its butted against. gripfill style adhesives means you joins don't have to be perfect to be air tight.
that is good for a start, then I bought a mitresaw to help with more accurate angle cutting.
clamps are very handy too as are those Jasper circle jigs for doing speaker cutouts with the router.
I rought cut pannels with the jigsaw, you can get to withing 1/2-1mm accurate with a little practice and decent blades (don't scrimp on the blades, they are the bit doing the cutting), then glue and screw them together with the rough cut edge overhanging. then use a laminate trimming bit in the router (straight fluted cutter with a bearing on the tip) to straighten up my rought cut edge against the flat pannel its butted against. gripfill style adhesives means you joins don't have to be perfect to be air tight.
that is good for a start, then I bought a mitresaw to help with more accurate angle cutting.
clamps are very handy too as are those Jasper circle jigs for doing speaker cutouts with the router.
My first question would be how much room do you have to work in. The reason I ask is that for good straight cuts, nothing beats a fixed saw, like a table saw or radial arm saw. And how far do you plan on going, just a set of speakers or many sets.
I have a rather good sized shop that serves several purposes, wood working being one. I aquired my tools over the past 30 years and can now say which ones I would buy first.
I have a rather good sized shop that serves several purposes, wood working being one. I aquired my tools over the past 30 years and can now say which ones I would buy first.
EC8010 said:
Jorgensen makes "pipe clamp" adapters -- don't know if they are available in the ROW. Clamps, clamps, clamps !
I would buy a half-decent router and a circle cutting jig, electric drill.
At one time I owned a Delta radial arm saw -- I switched to a contractor saw which is (to my way of thinking) much more acurate. A good blade is a real money-saver. Same with good router bits -- in the long run they really save you money and they make much better cuts.
Dryseals said:
I have plenty of room to work in. Can't say how far i plan on going, depends how well the first set goes and how crazy i might become!
Could anyone advise the best method of joining the timber? A particular type of glue? When should screws be used, because I am thinking screws would look ugly on the outside of the enclosure.
Also, what is the primary difference between a circular saw and a jigsaw, in terms of when should each one be used? They both just cut timber right?
And what is the function of a router in speaker building?
If you don't want screws and you're fairly new at this, then the next suggestion is to use biscuits. Buy yourself a biscuit jointer and some bar clamps or even strap clamps. You won't be sorry. Take the time to learn how to use the jointer on scrap pieces and you'll find that for most butt joints it's quite acceptable.
Use yellow carpenters glue if it's available or plain old white glue (PVA) if it's not.
Use yellow carpenters glue if it's available or plain old white glue (PVA) if it's not.
This is personal opinion, but if you have enough room then I would find a used radial arm saw. Not many manufacturers even make these any more, but I would get one before I bought a table saw.
The reason is, if you have plenty of room, then you can build a work bench that is even with the table top of the saw. The saw can then be use for long rip cuts and also for crosscuts. A table saw is good for ripping but not so good for cross cuts.
Circular saws are cheap, but hard to get a good striaght cut, jig saw are even harder. A circular saw will normally support a small 7 1/2" blade and will not turn, the jig saw is made for cutting things that are not straight.
With either saw, you can tale a piece of angled aluminium and clamp it to the work piece as a guide for the saw. This does a very good job of keeping the cuts straight. Not as good as a table saw, but if you take your time you can get some very straight cuts.
If you are joining wood together on edges, some like making a table top, there is no substitue for a router table with a tounge and groove bit. If joinging on edges such as for a box, then either clamp or screw. I prefer the screw method as it will hold strong, the screws can be removed after drying. For glue, normal Elmers wood glue from any store will do. The yellow looking stuff. There are lots of glues out there, but the simplest is normally the best all around, wood glue. I built a cutting board for my mom when I was 11 years old, she uses it almost every day. I'm 48 and it is still in perfect shape even after being through the dish washer thousands of times.
A router is a very versitile tool, I have 5 of them. A good one is expensive $200 yank will buy a good Freud plunge router. Some folks use them to make cuts, it will do it but is very messy, dust, the same angle guide using aluminium can be used on the router for trimming up things. I made my own circle jig from 1/4" plexiglass because I'm too cheap to pay good money for a piece of plastic. Works just as well as the store bought.
Feel free to ask any more questions you can think of, I build street rods, computers and furniture for a hobby and decided to get back to speaker building after a 15 year lull. I'm a tight wad so when I buy a tool I get my moneys worth. There are a lot of tools out there that are good tools that can be purchased used for a big savings. Lots of folks start out wanting to get into wood working, when they find out it can be work, then they drop out and sell their tools.
G'day
PS, I lived in Exmouth many years ago, loved it and the people. Never got to see much of the rest of the country, but I can still toss a mean game of darts. Ta
The reason is, if you have plenty of room, then you can build a work bench that is even with the table top of the saw. The saw can then be use for long rip cuts and also for crosscuts. A table saw is good for ripping but not so good for cross cuts.
Circular saws are cheap, but hard to get a good striaght cut, jig saw are even harder. A circular saw will normally support a small 7 1/2" blade and will not turn, the jig saw is made for cutting things that are not straight.
With either saw, you can tale a piece of angled aluminium and clamp it to the work piece as a guide for the saw. This does a very good job of keeping the cuts straight. Not as good as a table saw, but if you take your time you can get some very straight cuts.
If you are joining wood together on edges, some like making a table top, there is no substitue for a router table with a tounge and groove bit. If joinging on edges such as for a box, then either clamp or screw. I prefer the screw method as it will hold strong, the screws can be removed after drying. For glue, normal Elmers wood glue from any store will do. The yellow looking stuff. There are lots of glues out there, but the simplest is normally the best all around, wood glue. I built a cutting board for my mom when I was 11 years old, she uses it almost every day. I'm 48 and it is still in perfect shape even after being through the dish washer thousands of times.
A router is a very versitile tool, I have 5 of them. A good one is expensive $200 yank will buy a good Freud plunge router. Some folks use them to make cuts, it will do it but is very messy, dust, the same angle guide using aluminium can be used on the router for trimming up things. I made my own circle jig from 1/4" plexiglass because I'm too cheap to pay good money for a piece of plastic. Works just as well as the store bought.
Feel free to ask any more questions you can think of, I build street rods, computers and furniture for a hobby and decided to get back to speaker building after a 15 year lull. I'm a tight wad so when I buy a tool I get my moneys worth. There are a lot of tools out there that are good tools that can be purchased used for a big savings. Lots of folks start out wanting to get into wood working, when they find out it can be work, then they drop out and sell their tools.
G'day
PS, I lived in Exmouth many years ago, loved it and the people. Never got to see much of the rest of the country, but I can still toss a mean game of darts. Ta
Hi Ray,
When you put "sawboard", I had to go to your biography to check your age. I figured you had to be at least my age. I was right, and then some
You don't see too many sawboards anymore (where I am) and I must admit to grabbing a 4' straight edge and a couple spring clamps when away from my table saw.
When you put "sawboard", I had to go to your biography to check your age. I figured you had to be at least my age. I was right, and then some
You don't see too many sawboards anymore (where I am) and I must admit to grabbing a 4' straight edge and a couple spring clamps when away from my table saw.
Hi Cal:
I suppose that my age (60) and saw boards are complementary. I have used them over the years for many projects including a few major ones.... airplane (Starduster II), sailboat (Pumpkinseed), etc.....as well as furniture odds and ends. I have never owned a table saw. Old time carpenters still use them and every few years they get rediscovered. Sound fundamentals(pardon the pun) never die.
I suppose that my age (60) and saw boards are complementary. I have used them over the years for many projects including a few major ones.... airplane (Starduster II), sailboat (Pumpkinseed), etc.....as well as furniture odds and ends. I have never owned a table saw. Old time carpenters still use them and every few years they get rediscovered. Sound fundamentals(pardon the pun) never die.
Wixy,
Based on your questions, I am assuming you know basically nothing about woodworking. I can't encourage you enough to take up this hobby, but my first piece of advice is this:
Get thee to a bookstore and buy Ernest Scott's "Working in Wood." You will then have a much better idea of what everyone is talking about.
Doug
Based on your questions, I am assuming you know basically nothing about woodworking. I can't encourage you enough to take up this hobby, but my first piece of advice is this:
Get thee to a bookstore and buy Ernest Scott's "Working in Wood." You will then have a much better idea of what everyone is talking about.
Doug
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