Well, you can do as I`ve done on this one
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6965
..or mybe even better; make a sandwich of wood and stone, seen the beauty of polished granit? Makes extreme solid cabinets by the way
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6965
..or mybe even better; make a sandwich of wood and stone, seen the beauty of polished granit? Makes extreme solid cabinets by the way
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=92298172&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=118198&DID=7
This stuff any good?
This stuff any good?
I have used on my speakers to date (laminated to 18mm MDF carcass using titebond 2) 15mm thick solid wood boards (spalted beech) 3" boards biscuit joined for sides, top and lower front panels, mitred between sides and top.
Rear panel and crossover hatch 2x 12.5mm MDF laminated (titebond 2) finished in black piano laquer along with 36mm (2x18mm MDF) chamferd base plynths.
Front baffle 18mm MDF carcase laminated to a 12.5mm MDF faceplate coverd in satin goats leather, drivers recessed,
All wood prepaired with a cabinate scraper and 240 grit aoxide finished in blonde shellac french polish cut back to a glass like shine.
well thats how I do it anyway, it takes for ages but it's worth it.
Stew.
Rear panel and crossover hatch 2x 12.5mm MDF laminated (titebond 2) finished in black piano laquer along with 36mm (2x18mm MDF) chamferd base plynths.
Front baffle 18mm MDF carcase laminated to a 12.5mm MDF faceplate coverd in satin goats leather, drivers recessed,
All wood prepaired with a cabinate scraper and 240 grit aoxide finished in blonde shellac french polish cut back to a glass like shine.
well thats how I do it anyway, it takes for ages but it's worth it.
Stew.
I agree Stew, the finishing sometimes takes me two or three times as long as the build, ( but then I rediscovered Danish oil
). I'm not sure about goats leather though, as I have been a veggie for 12 years
Wolf, don't worry about the sound, the effects will be negligable, just build them, they will look amazing! I would prefer using a water based varnish though, as it smells less, and dries quicker, giving dust less chance to settle.
pinkmouse said:
I'm not sure about goats leather though, as I have been a veggie for 12 years
While in the local furnishings shop the other day I discovered black Vinyl (well it came in a variety of colours) that looked very similar to real leather from a metre or so away, and it was cheaper by far than leather, also it's very stretchy and softer to the touch so it would be a joy to work with. I might try this out on my next project
may potentially help in reducing HF reflections too.Stew.
Re: I want to see
If carefully applied with a paint gun, you will be close. You need to put a sealer on the MDF before and you need to sand with a 320 sandpaper between each coat. On my speaker I have put 10 coats. To get a better finish, you should use the "car" technique. Basically, it is to paint the box the same way that a car is painted.
Not sure which paint/varnish the piano uses, but for sure it is really hard to make this finish at home. Someday, I will take a few course in wood/cabinet finishing.
halojoy said:I want to see some pictures in this thread.
A little eye-candy would make this subject really interesting.
If carefully applied with a paint gun, you will be close. You need to put a sealer on the MDF before and you need to sand with a 320 sandpaper between each coat. On my speaker I have put 10 coats. To get a better finish, you should use the "car" technique. Basically, it is to paint the box the same way that a car is painted.
Not sure which paint/varnish the piano uses, but for sure it is really hard to make this finish at home. Someday, I will take a few course in wood/cabinet finishing.
Re: I want to see
Sorry, this is the best picture that I have...
halojoy said:I want to see some pictures in this thread.
A little eye-candy would make this subject really interesting.
Sorry, this is the best picture that I have...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think the key to a glass like finish in lacquer (or a paint finish) is in the cutting back and polishing and the surface preparation. your surface must be perfectly flat before any lacquer is applied or you will see ripples in the end result. A cabinet scraper is a very good tool for this
Then sealed with a sealer and sanded with 240 grit paper, Lots of layers of lacquer, flattening out in-between every 2nd or 3rd coat with 240grit until a good depth has been reached. final few layers should be clear lacquer, Cut back with wet&dry paper used wet from 400 grit right up to 2000 grit (taking care at the edges and corners as it's easy to sand through)
Then use medium cutting liquid similar to t-cut then fine cutting liquid progressing on to extra fine then on to swirl remover or "3M Hand Glaze" then polish with a very soft cloth and voala! a mirror like glass finish that's very tough and more scratch resistant than straight off the gun.
A finish right of the spray gun no matter how good it's done is no where near as good as cut back and polished surface. It takes allot of elbow grease for a perfect finish. Anyone can do this at home!! as long as your armed with the basic knowledge and some old cotton t-shirts, off the shelf cutting liquids and lots of w&d paper.
All my opinion of course but that's how I do it.
Stew.
Then sealed with a sealer and sanded with 240 grit paper, Lots of layers of lacquer, flattening out in-between every 2nd or 3rd coat with 240grit until a good depth has been reached. final few layers should be clear lacquer, Cut back with wet&dry paper used wet from 400 grit right up to 2000 grit (taking care at the edges and corners as it's easy to sand through)
Then use medium cutting liquid similar to t-cut then fine cutting liquid progressing on to extra fine then on to swirl remover or "3M Hand Glaze" then polish with a very soft cloth and voala! a mirror like glass finish that's very tough and more scratch resistant than straight off the gun.
A finish right of the spray gun no matter how good it's done is no where near as good as cut back and polished surface. It takes allot of elbow grease for a perfect finish. Anyone can do this at home!! as long as your armed with the basic knowledge and some old cotton t-shirts, off the shelf cutting liquids and lots of w&d paper.
All my opinion of course
but that's how I do it.Stew.
Veneer for cheap...
No reason to use that simulation woodgrain contact paper.
Try here for very low cost but high quality veneers:
http://www.tapeease.com/
-Chris
No reason to use that simulation woodgrain contact paper.
Try here for very low cost but high quality veneers:
http://www.tapeease.com/
-Chris
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