Fostex FT17H is a good match, use an L pad and a 1.5uf cap, this is a fostex recommended set up, just check the ft17h datasheet, the schematic is at the bottom left of the page. Here is the link: http://www.madisound.com/ft17h.pdf
This is a great, relatively inexpensive solution, I've used the 17H with fe206e with good results. If budget allows you can move up to either Ft96H or T90A, these are better but IMO you'll get more bang for the buck with FT17H.
This is a great, relatively inexpensive solution, I've used the 17H with fe206e with good results. If budget allows you can move up to either Ft96H or T90A, these are better but IMO you'll get more bang for the buck with FT17H.
One of the Chinese ribbon tweeters. I can only vouch for the Aurum Cantus, which seems much better than the FT17 . The Fountek have their fans and are a little bit cheaper, but I haven't heard them...
These ribbons are now around $80- 90 ea.
Here's someone with a common interest!:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=445682#post445682
These ribbons are now around $80- 90 ea.
Here's someone with a common interest!:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=445682#post445682
Hi chaps, OK so I’ve been listening to my MK FE207E MLTL’s for some time now and with a lot of playing about I get nice bass response with 4ohms of series resistance only..
The thing is that it’s missing something and I think I need to add tweets.
I was listening to a certain track in the car (I Am Kloot - Mermaids) and there is the sound of bags of money constantly in the background…. Play it on the MLTL’s and they sound like bags of crisps!!
Thinking it was maybe my amp, I put in my old 3 ways and it sounded like money again (the rest sounded awful!)
So it appears to be the speakers…bugger!
What should I do guys? Fit some FT17H’s in the top corners or ………
I haven’t tried taking the series resistance out because I then need my active subs to come back into the room for low level listening… I don’t want that!
As always, your experience is always invaluable!
The thing is that it’s missing something and I think I need to add tweets.
I was listening to a certain track in the car (I Am Kloot - Mermaids) and there is the sound of bags of money constantly in the background…. Play it on the MLTL’s and they sound like bags of crisps!!
Thinking it was maybe my amp, I put in my old 3 ways and it sounded like money again (the rest sounded awful!)
So it appears to be the speakers…bugger!
What should I do guys? Fit some FT17H’s in the top corners or ………
I haven’t tried taking the series resistance out because I then need my active subs to come back into the room for low level listening… I don’t want that!
As always, your experience is always invaluable!
Try a rearward firing FT17, which will give you the air & ambiance you crave (it's an excellent unit for the price).
The 207 doesn't extend upward as far as the Fostex charts imply -in reality, it's about all-done by 12KHz - 13KHz, and should be viewed, like the FF225K and the FE208ESigma, as a wide-range rather than a full-range device. Not a bad thing at all really: you can hand over to super-tweeters for the highest frequencies and dedicated woofers should you need sub-40Hz bass, while keeping the XOs simple and well outside our most critical / sensitive hearing regions.
BTW -a set of phase plugs, if you haven't got them, will improve the midband of the 207 considerably. www.planet10-hifi.com
The 207 doesn't extend upward as far as the Fostex charts imply -in reality, it's about all-done by 12KHz - 13KHz, and should be viewed, like the FF225K and the FE208ESigma, as a wide-range rather than a full-range device. Not a bad thing at all really: you can hand over to super-tweeters for the highest frequencies and dedicated woofers should you need sub-40Hz bass, while keeping the XOs simple and well outside our most critical / sensitive hearing regions.
BTW -a set of phase plugs, if you haven't got them, will improve the midband of the 207 considerably. www.planet10-hifi.com
Hi,
I suggest a good read of MJK's articles on correction circuits.
I think he has abandoned the series resistor only approach.
e.g. :
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Variable.pdf
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/Project05.html
Uses a similar circuit so start with say 2uF ?
tip : use a range of cheap electrolytics to experiment, three
values in series and parallel combinations give a wide range,
then actually use a higher quality component.
/sreten.
I suggest a good read of MJK's articles on correction circuits.
I think he has abandoned the series resistor only approach.
e.g. :
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Variable.pdf
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/Project05.html
Uses a similar circuit so start with say 2uF ?
tip : use a range of cheap electrolytics to experiment, three
values in series and parallel combinations give a wide range,
then actually use a higher quality component.
/sreten.
Thanks Scott, I've tried the BSC before and didn't like it so I doubt it will do the trick.
Looking at a few other threads it seems there are quite a few people in the same boat who have added a super tweeter to good effect.
Firing to the rear is a new one but it does mean that the front face doesn't become 'cluttered' with an obvious afterthought!
I think I'll mount them on the back face first to get a feel for them before drilling a hole though. I can then move them about to get the optimum feel.
Thanks everyone for the input
Lee
Looking at a few other threads it seems there are quite a few people in the same boat who have added a super tweeter to good effect.
Firing to the rear is a new one but it does mean that the front face doesn't become 'cluttered' with an obvious afterthought!
I think I'll mount them on the back face first to get a feel for them before drilling a hole though. I can then move them about to get the optimum feel.
Thanks everyone for the input
Lee
I found front mounted with 0.68uF and no Lpad was ok but I'm sure we can do better. I don't like the chrome look of the FT17H so rear mounting might be an option with my next cabinets.
I'll keep an eye on this and see what you find. I have some parts here for a 2nd order LR 10kHz crossover, no-one thinks it's a good idea but I'll try it in the next few days if I get time.
There is a circuit without component values floating about that Planet10 sent to me in a thread somewhere, I haven't got my head around calculating the values for that one yet.
I'll keep an eye on this and see what you find. I have some parts here for a 2nd order LR 10kHz crossover, no-one thinks it's a good idea but I'll try it in the next few days if I get time.
There is a circuit without component values floating about that Planet10 sent to me in a thread somewhere, I haven't got my head around calculating the values for that one yet.
threw a couple of ugly crossovers together this afternoon. Soldered the bits where they touched. well almost, I used a couple of bits of tag strip, some cable ties and a plank of wood.
I have not allowed for Baffle step or driver VC inductance. It's just a dumb textbook ideal world crossover. Significant improvements could be made by someone with more experience with crossover design, it's a useable starting point for you if you are interested.
Fe207E is 16 ohms at 10kHz.
10kHz Low pass:
20AWG 0.5mH inductor in series
0.5uF metallized polypropylene capacitor across the driver. (I used two 1uf in series which is dodgy.)
My speaker cable is 20AWG so I figured the cheap inductor won't cause much harm. I've been told these drivers like thin speaker cable anyway, some people even use 24AWG. DC resistance of the inductor is less than 0.1 ohms.
FT17H is 8 ohms and pretty flat.
10kHz high pass:
1uF metallized polypropylene capacitor in series.
0.25mH inductor in parallel.
then 2.7 ohms in series
then 16.5 ohms in parallel (two 33 ohm)
the resistors drop it about 3dB, the FT17H is 3.5dB more efficient than the Fe207E at 10kHz. I first ran it without the attenuator but I didn't like it, the tweeter was too much.
I've only listened to this for about 10 minutes now. Vocals are unchanged from when I ran it full-range. There might be a little bit less bass but I'm not sure. rear mounted without the attenuator would probably work well.
Picture not for the faint hearted. Have a bucket handy.
edit: cable to amplifier in the bottom, cables out the top go to the speakers. white and orange to tweeters, red and blue to the full-rangers.
I have not allowed for Baffle step or driver VC inductance. It's just a dumb textbook ideal world crossover. Significant improvements could be made by someone with more experience with crossover design, it's a useable starting point for you if you are interested.
Fe207E is 16 ohms at 10kHz.
10kHz Low pass:
20AWG 0.5mH inductor in series
0.5uF metallized polypropylene capacitor across the driver. (I used two 1uf in series which is dodgy.)
My speaker cable is 20AWG so I figured the cheap inductor won't cause much harm. I've been told these drivers like thin speaker cable anyway, some people even use 24AWG. DC resistance of the inductor is less than 0.1 ohms.
FT17H is 8 ohms and pretty flat.
10kHz high pass:
1uF metallized polypropylene capacitor in series.
0.25mH inductor in parallel.
then 2.7 ohms in series
then 16.5 ohms in parallel (two 33 ohm)
the resistors drop it about 3dB, the FT17H is 3.5dB more efficient than the Fe207E at 10kHz. I first ran it without the attenuator but I didn't like it, the tweeter was too much.
I've only listened to this for about 10 minutes now. Vocals are unchanged from when I ran it full-range. There might be a little bit less bass but I'm not sure. rear mounted without the attenuator would probably work well.
Picture not for the faint hearted. Have a bucket handy.
edit: cable to amplifier in the bottom, cables out the top go to the speakers. white and orange to tweeters, red and blue to the full-rangers.
Attachments
I borrowed a tube amp and the ugly mess I made earlier gave it a real headache at high levels. It was really quite awful around the crossover frequency - very garbled and hissy.
I came up with something simple that sounded pretty good.
series 8 ohms with series 0.57 uF
I used 4x 33 ohm in parallel for the resistor then a 0.47 and a 0.1 in parallel for the capacitor.
Works out at 17kHz first order.
These are completely different speakers with this amp. It's a Mr Liang 2002. It doesn't look like the highest quality but sounds great. I think I'm turning into a bottlehead.
I came up with something simple that sounded pretty good.
series 8 ohms with series 0.57 uF
I used 4x 33 ohm in parallel for the resistor then a 0.47 and a 0.1 in parallel for the capacitor.
Works out at 17kHz first order.
These are completely different speakers with this amp. It's a Mr Liang 2002. It doesn't look like the highest quality but sounds great. I think I'm turning into a bottlehead.
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