Sake is wonderful, and japs sell ultra hi-end stuff like nobody else. Rey Audio, Feastrex, Onken, Kondo, Shindo, Tango, Tamura, Ikeda, Kaneda, Koestsu, true audio mambo kings...
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Sake is wonderful, and japs sell ultra hi-end stuff like nobody else. Rey Audio, Feastrex, Onken, Kondo, Shindo, Tango, Tamura, Ikeda, Kaneda, Koestsu, true audio mambo kings...
Not sure what to make of this reply of yours... but I've been to Japan multiple times, and I have listened to the G.T. Sound systems - as well as most of the other brands you mention, BTW, some of which I respect while some others I regard as just nostalgic bling.
I can assure you that the G.T. Sound systems in particular are top notch representatives of what is currently achievable in terms of realistic loudspeaker performance, from all points of view: neutrality, tone, ... you name it. Second to none.
Anyway - please keep believing what you will, it doesn't bother me one bit
No hard feelings!
M.
Looks like a Ballbuster Grosvenor copy or rebranded...
If real B G, Not bad stuff, just neurotic business management, lol...
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look at B&G at PE... sorry Part Express (but will not cop for sound re enforcment party !)
lookk maybe at DIYSOUNDGroump : for instance the Tempest kit....
Morel : don't know if it can be in this short list !
(PS : Kitano drivers : eyes offset stereo image problems ! lol !) (and the Audiopur is in fact an AudioJaïpur I believe...)
(but will not cop for sound re enforcment party !)lookk maybe at DIYSOUNDGroump : for instance the Tempest kit....
Morel : don't know if it can be in this short list !
(PS : Kitano drivers : eyes offset stereo image problems ! lol !) (and the Audiopur is in fact an AudioJaïpur I believe...)
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Sometimes the maximum output is limited by the cone area and cone travel (volume displacement).
This is not a problem if you use subs. Subs are not a bad thing.
Lack of extension contributes to efficiency and efficiency is not a bad thing.
AllenB do you know what speaker cabinet design I want?
I want a narrow front baffle and this means side woofer and this means low cut for mid (~100-200hz) and so on.
And I still don't have a clear answer regarding Audiopur MAG20M...and if you have a look on datasheets it is very very slim only 11.3mm.
How it is still working?
I want a narrow front baffle and this means side woofer and this means low cut for mid (~100-200hz) and so on.
And I still don't have a clear answer regarding Audiopur MAG20M...and if you have a look on datasheets it is very very slim only 11.3mm.
How it is still working?
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I know you want a narrow baffle.
Sometimes speaker building is about knowing what to do, but as much knowing what not to do. When I look at your stated problem of keeping the woofer crossover low to avoid propagation issues, I agree. But I also notice that the midrange will have similar problems over the baffle. Bass is easier to fix in the room, and midrange is more sensitive.
Sometimes speaker building is about knowing what to do, but as much knowing what not to do. When I look at your stated problem of keeping the woofer crossover low to avoid propagation issues, I agree. But I also notice that the midrange will have similar problems over the baffle. Bass is easier to fix in the room, and midrange is more sensitive.
Yes maybe you have right.
You know maybe that I want to fix on old (5-7 years) speaker and I had often problems with the integration of mid's from time to time - maybe depending of song....
A, and I have problems with a room resonance around 80hz and maybe a room deeps around 150hz which makes integration between woofer and mid's be more difficult.
The original cabinets had 2 mid's per box and if I want to keep original design I need 2 mid's, 4 mid's total which makes me to search for a relative cheap speakers.
You know maybe that I want to fix on old (5-7 years) speaker and I had often problems with the integration of mid's from time to time - maybe depending of song....
A, and I have problems with a room resonance around 80hz and maybe a room deeps around 150hz which makes integration between woofer and mid's be more difficult.
The original cabinets had 2 mid's per box and if I want to keep original design I need 2 mid's, 4 mid's total which makes me to search for a relative cheap speakers.
Hello again,
I want to order the speakers and I can't decide what to order.
I want to order the speakers and I can't decide what to order.
For mid-woofers I want to order PEERLEES 835004 and I want to use two of it in series from 150hz to 2Khz in a close small box ;
And for tweeter I can't decide from:
for both the cut frequncy wil be around 1Khz - 2.5Khz.
Can you help me?And for tweeter I can't decide from:
for both the cut frequncy wil be around 1Khz - 2.5Khz.
Come on, nobody even wants to give their opinion? ..........because it is not a audiophile discussion?
I do not have enough money to buy them all and see which one sounds better.
For sure here are people who know these speakers or even have an idea how it should behave according to the datasheet parameters.
I do not have enough money to buy them all and see which one sounds better.
For sure here are people who know these speakers or even have an idea how it should behave according to the datasheet parameters.
Hey, who are you calling an audiophile (joking )
Look, I think drivers can make a difference but it is more important that you chose the right type of driver suitable for the job and set up well on the right cabinet. Some people have a preference of cone material and so forth, but what you do with them is important. I don't think you need to buy every driver to test them and this would be a wild goose chase that you might not finish. I would rather have a speaker made well with reasonable but cheaper drivers than to put special expensive drivers on inadequately designed baffling, or used outside of their intended range.
Hoping this helps
)Look, I think drivers can make a difference but it is more important that you chose the right type of driver suitable for the job and set up well on the right cabinet. Some people have a preference of cone material and so forth, but what you do with them is important. I don't think you need to buy every driver to test them and this would be a wild goose chase that you might not finish. I would rather have a speaker made well with reasonable but cheaper drivers than to put special expensive drivers on inadequately designed baffling, or used outside of their intended range.
Hoping this helps
Ok Allen but what you think about using some pro drivers for midwoofer, only one Eminence ALFA 6A more precisley.
I will tray this: VIFA BC25SG15-04 tweeter with (only one not two like I discused until now) Alfa 6A mid and the side woofer that I allready have.
I will cut at 150-200Hz and 2.5-3Khz. The box for Eminence mid it is around 10L and the woofer are BR with ~40L and tuned ~35-40Hz.
Do you think, it is a good match?
I will tray this: VIFA BC25SG15-04 tweeter with (only one not two like I discused until now) Alfa 6A mid and the side woofer that I allready have.
I will cut at 150-200Hz and 2.5-3Khz. The box for Eminence mid it is around 10L and the woofer are BR with ~40L and tuned ~35-40Hz.
Do you think, it is a good match?
The 6A looks good. Paper is a well damped cone material and a pleated surround can work well. Efficiency is good and the motor specs are versatile. Resonance is at a reasonable point. Output level should be OK. 3kHz is probably the highest you should go with that size. It would be good if your tweeter could reach to cross below that.
Hi Allen, I try to follow your advice.
What do you think about this tweeter: SB ACOUSTICS SB25STC-C000-4 or SB ACOUSTICS SB26STAC-C000-4.
The second one looks better but is more expensive.
These two type of tweeter can be crossed lower, around 1Khz I think that are ok.
Do you think that now is a good combination?
Maybe this week I can do the online order.
PS: By the way, I think that even Vifa can be cut lower, 1.5Khz I think it is possible.
What do you think about this tweeter: SB ACOUSTICS SB25STC-C000-4 or SB ACOUSTICS SB26STAC-C000-4.
The second one looks better but is more expensive.
These two type of tweeter can be crossed lower, around 1Khz I think that are ok.
Do you think that now is a good combination?
Maybe this week I can do the online order.
PS: By the way, I think that even Vifa can be cut lower, 1.5Khz I think it is possible.
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I think they look OK on paper and would be suitable. I haven't used any of them though. There are some comments available on this site, for example.
OK,
I initiate the order for EMINENCE ALPHA-6A and SB ACOUSTICS SB26ADC-C000-4.
Using the FRD and ZMA files extracted from datasheets and measurement of my woofer, I sketched a filter.
What do you think?
First with mid in correct position (reversed) and second with mid in direct connection to see the cross frequencies
I initiate the order for EMINENCE ALPHA-6A and SB ACOUSTICS SB26ADC-C000-4.
Using the FRD and ZMA files extracted from datasheets and measurement of my woofer, I sketched a filter.
What do you think?
First with mid in correct position (reversed) and second with mid in direct connection to see the cross frequencies
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